Overspin. Help

[bas1xx]

hey guys,

just installed sp120 spring into my leg with a new asg 40k motor and I'm getting some over spin every now and then, it looks like the air nozzle doesn't reset properly after each shot. and then it'll fire double, to fix it I just do a quick full auto burst and its fine again 

I have a Krytac trident mk2 crb

for batteries, I use this as my main 11.1v 1300 25c, 50c cont https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/asg-11-1v-1300mah-25c-lipo-crane-stock-batteryand I have an 11.1v 1100 20c 40c cont as a backup too. this one https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/1-vp-racing-11.1v-1000mah-20c-lipo-stick-battery

I've read that battery could be the issue with the discharge rate, could getting either of these fix the issue?

looking at either of these... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1400mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html

not looking to buy a mosfet just yet with active braking. maybe in 4 weeks or so

thanks

 

[Sitting Duck]

hey guys,

just installed sp120 spring into my leg with a new asg 40k motor and I'm getting some over spin every now and then, it looks like the air nozzle doesn't reset properly after each shot. and then it'll fire double, to fix it I just do a quick full auto burst and its fine again 

I have a Krytac trident mk2 crb

for batteries, I use this as my main 11.1v 1300 25c, 50c cont https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/asg-11-1v-1300mah-25c-lipo-crane-stock-batteryand I have an 11.1v 1100 20c 40c cont as a backup too. this one https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/1-vp-racing-11.1v-1000mah-20c-lipo-stick-battery

I've read that battery could be the issue with the discharge rate, could getting either of these fix the issue?

looking at either of these... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1400mah-3s-15-25c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html

not looking to buy a mosfet just yet with active braking. maybe in 4 weeks or so

thanks

Whoa whoa whoa a sec.....

you was saying about using a 7.4v....

hi,

I own a Krytac trident mkii crb...

I am running asg 40k motor with sp120 spring with an 11.1v for outdoors.I'm wanting to play CQB where the limit is 328 fps but an allowable limit of 350fps.I am from the UK so in my spares I have the stock m100 spring and the stock 20k motor.Can I swap the spring back to the m100 with the 40k motor and a 7.4v battery, or will I get PME? - as I know with m100, 40k motor and 11.1v  I'll get pme.if not for cqb ill have to put it back to stock.
 

The nozzle position is no biggy, but overspin and double firing is the gun talking to you as I said

as the gun is seriously pre-cocking (occasional double firing on semi) on sp120 (m130)

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES IN STALL THE M100 (possible m90 Krytac use) on 11.1v

Krytac installed the 20k motor instead of the usual 30k due to UK spec having m90/100

than US spec m120 etc....

coz Yanks can have option to run 11.1v 30k coz of m120 spring say 25rps

in your case you have a 40k which is 30% quicker so pushes the gun to say 32rps+

NO WONDER YOU GOT OVERSPIN & with a m100 you will have a wrecked gearbox

(even on semi)

The AB fix & bells & whistles of a Titan to maybe dial back the rps speed percentage

both is an investment to attempt to fix the fact the gun in it's present state is running too quick

simply put - you are pushing the gun, twenties is plenty

(take it from somebody that fucked up plenty taking the piss)

20rps give or take a couple of rounds is about right

on a UK spec gun 24rps you will get double firing or start of it

(varies a bit depending on state of COL, the way the cam/sector gear is set etc....)

You want a 20c~40c lipo, it is still a 20c but can handle up to 40c burst

(nah it is still a 20c)

you want a min 20c or ideally a 25c rating, & 30c max limit

maybe something like this...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html?queryID=350849b4ec429e7d1cea8d0a67be0f7d&objectID=47516&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

bit low capacity but plop one in both sides and swap over if it gets low on power...

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack-t-connector.html?queryID=350849b4ec429e7d1cea8d0a67be0f7d&objectID=47516&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products

if using in cqb then unlikely to drain it very quickly

if you spraying in the field then expect the 40k to drain battery before lunch

(or after first game if going nutz)

 

[bas1xx]

I've never ran this set up with the m100, so say I installed a titan, with the motor pre braking would it fire perfect?

 

[Sitting Duck]

it would be a waste of money spending a further £100 or so

to dial down the rof due to not planning the rof/gun in the first place

sure bells & whistles etc... 3 rnd burst & all that adjustable precocking blah x 3

but you are looking to use it to dial down the rof which is too high initially

so you are looking to add to £350 gun a 40k motor & titan etc....

that's £500+ just to add some zest but dial it back a bit coz you are going a bit too nutz

When you enable/fit AB there is a little more heat to the motor from reversing polarity (AB)

which the motor is a 40k so draws more amps/heat than a 25k~30k motor than runs cooler

(where if done correctly AB wouldn't be needed or much at all)

the issue is there is more than one way to skin a cat

a HS motor I would only use in a long gun 400mm+ barrel with a m100 max on a low 20c 7.4v lipo

or if motor was really lame 18k I'd use 11.1v 25c to get some zest out of it

the 40k draws higher amps on 7.4v still equates to considerable watts

same as a low amp 18k but on 11.1v than 7.4v, still creates considerable watts in the end

so it is all a trade off in terms of speed/setup, amp/current draw etc... and watching the rps etc....

hence a 30k motor give or take 5k (so 25k ~35k absolute max) is my personal choice

if done right, you can get 11.1v performance on 7.4v and a good all round snappy gun

your Krytac has a tried/tested 3034 in there cleverly fitted for you

A Titan in a Krytac can be a bit niggly (according to Luke at Negative I think)

really you just need to stop pushing it or lessen the taking the piss on the rof

 

[bas1xx]

alright cool, so if I get the asg 30k motor instead, ill still be able to pull the sp120? and should fix the issue?

 

[Adolf Hamster]

simply put - you are pushing the gun, twenties is plenty

(take it from somebody that fucked up plenty taking the piss)

and to back up this point because i'm getting a very serious case of deja vu here.....

few years back i asked the same question as you op (and i mean exactly the same, 40k motor, 11.1v, 1j spring, fancy mosfets), duck gave me the same answer as he just gave you.

of course i didn't listen, blew a couple of mosfets, shredded some gears and some pistons, eventually ditched the whole lot and went hpa until i realised that high rof just earns you hatred.

it's your money at the end of the day, but the gun that works all day long is infinitely more valuable than the perfect gun that blows up halfway through the first game.

 

[bas1xx]

and to back up this point because i'm getting a very serious case of deja vu here.....

few years back i asked the same question as you op (and i mean exactly the same, 40k motor, 11.1v, 1j spring, fancy mosfets), duck gave me the same answer as he just gave you.

of course i didn't listen, blew a couple of mosfets, shredded some gears and some pistons, eventually ditched the whole lot and went hpa until i realised that high rof just earns you hatred.

it's your money at the end of the day, but the gun that works all day long is infinitely more valuable than the perfect gun that blows up halfway through the first game.

to be honest Im not even after a high rof, jut want to pull my sp120 spring no problem with a snappy trigger response

 

[Sitting Duck]

to be honest Im not even after a high rof, jut want to pull my sp120 spring no problem with a snappy trigger response

where abouts in this world are you shooting a sp120/m130 spring on auto option ???

that is sp120/m130 @ 425fps on 0.20's

& if you are not hitting 400+ then you got a leak/compression issue

so from a UK point being AF-UK I'm struggling to see why/where you are using a sp120 without locked to semi

and if you switch to m100 for cqb then the answer is 7.4v as I said

 

[bas1xx]

where abouts in this world are you shooting a sp120/m130 spring on auto option ???

that is sp120/m130 @ 425fps on 0.20's

& if you are not hitting 400+ then you got a leak/compression issue

so from a UK point being AF-UK I'm struggling to see why/where you are using a sp120 without locked to semi

the gun is mechanically locked to semi my friend.

 

[Adolf Hamster]

to be honest Im not even after a high rof, jut want to pull my sp120 spring no problem with a snappy trigger response

snappy trigger response you want a slower motor and a mosfet with precocking, the gate warfets tend to be a bit less fussy than the titans.

really depends on the end-game you're looking for but that's as good as you really want to push an aeg into doing.

 

[bas1xx]

snappy trigger response you want a slower motor and a mosfet with precocking, the gate warfets tend to be a bit less fussy than the titans.

really depends on the end-game you're looking for but that's as good as you really want to push an aeg into doing.

so you think its worth going for the 30k and the sp120 or sacking that off and going with the stock krytac 20k, the spring I was using with that (sp110) and a mosfet in the future?

the reason I wanted to go with the higher spring was as it was already at 400fps and it had to be locked to semi anyway, why not go to the top of the dmr threshold at 425fps

 

[Adolf Hamster]

so you think its worth going for the 30k and the sp120 or sacking that off and going with the stock krytac 20k, the spring I was using with that (sp110) and a mosfet in the future?

the reason I wanted to go with the higher spring was as it was already at 400fps and it had to be locked to semi anyway, why not go to the top of the dmr threshold at 425fps

It really depends on your objective.

Do you want an accurate long-range dmr, or a snappy cqb gun?

Because that's going to have a big impact on the areas you'll want to be focusing on.

 

[bas1xx]

the dmr, but fast and snappy for outdoor use, for cqb id just stick the stock set up back in the gun

 

[Sitting Duck]

the gun is mechanically locked to semi my friend.

Ok but just curious how you did a quick full auto burst if it is mechanically locked to semi

I mean it is easy to do, just clarifying that was all

 

[bas1xx]

Ok but just curious how you did a quick full auto burst if it is mechanically locked to semi

I mean it is easy to do, just clarifying that was all

As you probably know, anything mechanical can easily be un done. why do something to an Airsoft gun that can't be un done in the future if you decide another path?

Are you 'negative Airsoft' from YouTube by any chance?

 

[Rogerborg]

As you probably know, anything mechanical can easily be un done

Not if you'd done it by removing material from the selector plate.

If you've just put a screw in the receiver to stop the selector lever going to full, well, I get why you'd do that, semi-auto lockups happen.  But if you can undo it easily on the field, then it's legally dubious and open to abuse - I seem to recall (but can't find, and so may be imagining it) one site saying that screw lock offs aren't sufficient for DMRs.

Airsoft is a game of trust though, and I've ever heard of anyone being done for having an S5 firearm if they can full auto over 1.3J... but there's always a first time.  More of an issue for HPA hose-jockeys, really.

This isn't a lecture or criticism, just thinking out loud.  We all want a gun that can do anything, and I hope you find a setting that works for you.

If you don't want to spring for a Titan or Warfet, a basic anti-braking mosfet like a NanoAAB / PicoAAB / Jefftron / Perun should deal with the overspin and double firing, although with it being airsoft, I wouldn't be surprised to be surprised.

 

[bas1xx]

Not if you'd done it by removing material from the selector plate.

A new selector plate can 'easily' be dropped back in. If you aren't technically minded you shouldn't be running a highly modified gun you cannot fix yourself if something goes wrong.

But... at the end of the day were all larping, if you can convince yourself that you're in the special forces doing a mission in a forest in Sussex, you can convince yourself that you are a tech.

Thanks for the help chaps.

 

[Sitting Duck]

As you probably know, anything mechanical can easily be un done. why do something to an Airsoft gun that can't be un done in the future if you decide another path?

Are you 'negative Airsoft' from YouTube by any chance?

No I'm not Luke, though think I've met him a couple of times at the Mall

as said the two main ways "mechanically" is to mod the selector plate (semi + semi)

which can't be un-done as you can't replace material you removed...

so a new selector plate required to undo it

the other point is stop/limit the selector switch from moving to auto (not raising COL) with a screw or something

on some V3's like AK's with selector switch on other side - remove the arm that passes through box

now there might be other methods but there is two/three main options mechanically

When mechanically locking a mosfet gun, you can add in an additional micro switch from trigger contacts

that will fire on auto regardless of of trigger or COL position, so a hidden switch tucked away can fire on auto

should a lockup on semi ever occur on a DMR

(Though completely do-able on the basic Krytac 3034, it would require some partial disassembly/work)

If you had a Gate Nano/Warfet type of plug in mosfet, on a mechanically locked gun....

you could just unplug the mosfet from gun & jump it with a battery in place of mosfet unit

(if you had a warfet or other programmable mosfet then you would first try to lock it to semi only in settings)

When you lock a gun "mechanically" to semi, in case of selector plate it is permanent

linkage on a v3 AK requires disassembly to reconnect it back on

(or remove the selector plate on AK - the safety is on other side - if you try that on a v2 you lose the safety)

or remove the screw limiting the selector switch to go to only semi, stopping from full auto being selected

(if people don't mind drilling a hole in their receiver or something, probably on the main left side of M4

as Krytac is ambi fire, still think the left main side is preferable as directly shifts selector plate as opposed to other ambi side)

But I wouldn't personally tap a screw in, I'd probably consider other options in the planning

& include a (hidden) micro switch to fire if a lockup occurs on a mechanically locked gun

but would involve some/considerable work if the gun had full auto to begin with

The point of me asking, was that you mention a quick full auto burst to clear a lockup

then said it was mechanically locked - so I was curious as to how specifically it was locked

If you said you was in any country say US or something, then fair enough to higher limit

just in UK most sites are 350, some 328, maybe 1 might stretch to 360/370 absolute max on auto

Germany is even lamer at about 240fps on full auto or something

a sp120 is likely a guarder spring which is usually 10 more rating = m130 = 426.4fps

maybe a smidge less on a 280mm barrel gun but over 400fps I'd say

so shooting that higher spring unless locked to semi (somehow) is a bit of a no-no

 

[Rogerborg]

A new selector plate can 'easily' be dropped back in.

Not trivially on the field though, while a screw can be.  This isn't a criticism, just an observation.

If you aren't technically minded you shouldn't be running a highly modified gun you cannot fix yourself if something goes wrong.

100% agreed, I pity folk who send their guns off to a tech, pay hundreds to get them tuned (or ruined), and then expect them to be trouble free.

But... at the end of the day were all larping, if you can convince yourself that you're in the special forces doing a mission in a forest in Sussex, you can convince yourself that you are a tech.

I'm a real Space Soldier in the 40th Century!  Literally pew-pew.

Thanks for the help chaps.

We are trying to be helpful, but... you know airsofters.  If you're not doing it exactly the way I would, that's your perfect right, but clearly you must be a mental defective.

 

[Sitting Duck]

@Rogerborg laughing at last bit btw

it is your gun/Krytac & all that, your money etc....

I just got a very slight suspicion that OP was perhaps kicking the ball about a bit

(well yeah - asking for answers to his question)

but wasn't 101% sure if we was getting all the complete truthful info perhaps at very start

Advice & opinions are given, you do not have to follow but you should consider some of it maybe

I am NOT a tech guru, but I have broken plenty taking the piss (like most on here)

If I was that clever I wouldn't have wrecked a gun, partially fixed it and wrecked AGAIN taking the piss

(I would have done the thinking and limited my screw ups)

tbh - you can lock your gun, use as dmr on sp120 and also drop to m100 on 7.4v for cqb on semi etc...

AF-UK is a great place to seek help & advice, but be honest & open with us at start & we can help guide you best

(though ease up on rof on UK spec guns, we've all been there though

and we are in fact trying help you learn from our mistakes than make your own costly ones)

no worries & smug remarks, have a think about how you want to go with your gun & enjoy it

peace