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Motor connections, there has to be something better?

Mr Monkey Nuts

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I keep consistently breaking spade connection for the motor on my v2.

The best solution is to solder the wires direct to the motor, but makes it difficultly to tinker, so what other options are there? There has to be an alternative?

 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100PCS-2-8mm-Uninsulated-Female-Right-Angle-Crimp-Spade-Terminal-Connectors-Hot-/151312487428

OR

Shape the connectors - but re-enforce them with blob of solder at the bends

NOTE - hold connector up/wires down whilst doing this

as if excess solder runs into spade connector itself - ya f*cked to get it on later

so any excess solder will run back - what ya doing it strengthening the elbow joint

also giving it more conductive connection too as had these weakened connectors blow on me like a lame bladed fuse

Only time I have ever soldered direct to motor was on a v3 with AK motor frame

at least I can easily remove that - but a v2 M4 - pain in the ar$e if soldered

either of those two ideas above should get you good connection and little resistance

not much behind the die hard solder everything for least resistance and max response mofo's

 
Last edited by a moderator:
G&P motors have a thread in the connector where you can screw the wire on.

Wiring_TBD_GP770A-2.jpg


 
I've seen someone mod motor endbell to accept Bullet connector.

Personally I just stick to soldering as one of the issues with Spade connectors is they are not really designed to handle large currents.

 
it is a good idea that G&P implement....

until you want to swap out a m120 motor for something better

on v3's with motor cage I could solder if I wanted 101% contact

but tbh on v3's with cage/frame the connectors are straight so don't break so much

On v2's with pistol grip cramming it all in there it becomes an issue

Anyway - there are a number of options available

its your gun - use what you feel best

 
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