Kings arm box shs gears

Gazzalesta

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Hi please can someone help me awhile ago I brought a upgraded gearbox that was not what it seemed so I have been buying the bits to put it rite so tonite I got the final parts and went to build the box only to find when I put my new shs gears in the box with or without shims I cannot close the case properly it's a kings arm case. Does anyone what's wrong or had this happen before. Thanks for any help

 
Does it still have a problem with a completely bare case and just one gear? Only thing I can think of is the bushings/bearings don't match the diameter of the gear shafts.

 
Even with just one gear it does it. That much pressure it's trying to push the bearing out of casing

 
Can you get different size bearing for gearboxs if so how would I find out what size I would need

 
It sounds like the shafts on your gears are larger than the bushes. I'm not trying to be a dick about this, but if something like this has got you stumped then you probably lack the knowledge and experience to put a gearbox together without trashing the parts you just bought. Either get it sorted by someone who knows what they're doing, or hit Google and YouTube and get on a steep learning curve. There are some great videos on how to assemble and shim a gearbox, and if you take your time and apply common sense there's no reason why you can't learn a load and make a decent job of getting it done. But you need to know something about bearings, shafts and how they should work together. Find out why clearances are important and why too loose or too tight are a bad thing. But mainly you'll figure out the difference between 'that'll do' and 'spot fecking on'. And there's a world of difference between the two, but it's so satisfying to nail it.

First step though, measure the shaft diameter and the bearing diameter. You don't need anything fancy. You should be able to tell the difference between 7mm and 8mm with a ruler.

 
I'm know means an expert in airsoft as I've not been in it long but I know when something don't fit I understand what your saying but with the gearbox empty and only 1 gear in it the casing won't close properly. To me the shafts are to long. It's not the diameter as the shaft fits through the bearing fine just not enough what is causing the issue of the box not shutting fully

 
I'm know means an expert in airsoft as I've not been in it long but I know when something don't fit I understand what your saying but with the gearbox empty and only 1 gear in it the casing won't close properly. To me the shafts are to long. It's not the diameter as the shaft fits through the bearing fine just not enough what is causing the issue of the box not shutting fully
Sounds to me like you already know what the problem is. Unless there's shims in there that don't need to be, you have gears that don't fit. Buy different gears or a new box shell.

 
Yes I've contacted the seller of the gears and he is going to refund me just need to find a decent high speed gear set now

 
Your gearbox is reinforced at the back

The problem is the spur gear is catching where there is reinforced material

My guess is you are using a 12:1 or 13:1 set

And the spur is catching

You will very very likely get this no matter what make of gears you use

You "should" be able to use up to a 16:1 set but any faster it will catch on spur

I have had this on D-Boys v2 boxes and others

It requires a bit of dremel work

To grind away a circular bit of material that is catching

It needs grinding on the top or right hand half of gearbox

Then it all works dandy

I'm out atm so can't go into exact detail

But if you look at the other half of this pic

You should see a raised half circle area on the right side of pic...

http://s7.photobucket.com/user/meancivicsi/media/airsoft/King%20Arms%20TROY%20MRF/IMG_2523Large.jpg.html

 
Right on the right part of pic, you should a raised circle area about 1/3 of a circle...

I'd ring it red but on fone ATM

Anyway if your box is like that then THAT needs grinding

Or

You use a 16:1 or STD 18:1 ratio gear set

Dremel cheapo cutting disc the size of a 10p

A few mins and all dandy

A PITA but some boxes are like this reinforced at back

F*ck knows why coz 99% of the time if the go

They usually just crack up at the front

Hope some of this helps if ya box is reinforced at back

 
That'll teach me to stick my oar in when I'm not a 100% sure and after a couple of beers. Would you mind posting a couple of pics to help educate the ignorant amongst us? Hope you get it sorted.

 
If you get a chance could you circle the part that needs grinding. Your rite the gears were 12.1 lol same box as yours so if you can show me what I need to grind it would be great. Thanks

 
This explains what I mean:


NO - I don't go this nutz - there is no need for this sledgehammer to crack a nut method

I mean yeah it will work but a bit bull in a china shop approach

still if you only have a regular grinder then yeah I suppose

but a dremel or cheapo china clone - one with a flexible shaft is ultra handy £25 or so fleabay

PITA - but the spur's inner teeth is what is hitting the other raised radius reinforced area of top box

Only happens on really high speed gears on some boxes...

coz the spur's inner teeth that mesh with sector gear increase as ratio's change

(compare the std spur to high speed spur & you see the difference)

Oh well PITA but it is all do-able in the end

hope this helps - best of luck

 
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That is spot on I see what need to be done now thanks for the help will let you know how it goes

 
Live n learn m8, live n learn

not all reinforced boxes have the "raised ridge"

Got a cheap SRC one in front of me that is reinforced or filled at back but no ridge

(so should be ok with a high speed set as is)

Think say 40% of boxes are "hollow" at back like G&G, VFC Classic Army - maybe G&P etc....

A 20% are reinforced at back - BUT no ridge like SRC's and some others

And say 40% are reinforced at back WITH a ridge that needs modding but only for high speed gears like:

D-Boys, King Arms, ForceCore, Cyma maybe - std or 16:1's should be fine without a mod

This is only a rough guide or percentage....

Keep ya SHS gears - they are without doubt a great budget set of gears

a few snides or moody batches have happened or duff mk3 sets with weak bevels but overall they are the best cheap gears imho

There are others like ZCI or Big Dragon etc.. but imho I'd give SHS or RA the edge

you should be able to space & shim them very nicely with good amount of teeth meshing nicely and run well

Shimming - arrghhh that does take a bit of time to get to grips with and the more you do

"hopefully" the better you get, but a decent set of gears also helps

if you wanna learn probably way way way too much look up a guy called Roger "shut up gears"

way way way overkill some might say - but if you get anything over half as smooth as his boxes that is still decent

his stuff is among some of the best guides out there - way over the top maybe but explains loads

(I don't agree 101% with it all but most of it - to each their own as they say)

Best of luck - damn poxy toy guns can be a ball ache but if all goes well you get that feeling of...



 
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Mate thanks for the help ground the high bit down and the box closes nicely and gears move freely

 
Ok feel abit of a tit now all bk together firing great but everything is full auto lol what have I done wrong I'm guessing it a simple fix

 
Ok feel abit of a tit now all bk together firing great but everything is full auto lol what have I done wrong I'm guessing it a simple fix
Normally that will be selector plate & Cut Off Lever or COL related....

The selector plate should not be the case if all working OK perviously in same gun

sometimes when replacing the plate or different receiver a bit of modding might be needed

BUT I'm going to assume the selector plate operated perfectly in semi previously - so plate is ok

(had one crack on refitting into M4 receiver but I think it would struggle on full auto - nah doubt that too)

is the small spring - selector plate & COL present & fitted correctly, this returns the COL on semi

in auto the COL is pushed upwards and stays upwards disengaging the COL's action

in semi COL pops the trigger switch trolley off the trigger - the sear and flies back to reset

It needs that tiny spring to ensure the COL returns asap blah blah blah

I think most likely the COL spring is missing or not working correctly

or somehow the COL is not returning properly

sometimes if COL is tightly fitted inside the box it can bind or slow return

normally it operates a tiny bit loosely than too tightly if you understand - especially if COL gets changed or refitted

The COL itself could be worn - but if it was working beforehand on semi then I tend to doubt this is the case

COL's all look ok until you compare a brand new one and then you see the wear but I doubt if COL

is that worn tbh more likely the issue is not wear but operation or fitting issue is my gut feeling

If still no easy fix or joy then most likely it is going to need to be stripped down - bummer

At the point you have gears assembled and no cylinder/piston but you are doing a "spin test" for shimming etc...

This is the point you have trigger, switch, selector plate etc also fitted...

When conducting the gears "spin test", engage semi with selector in center and pull trigger on semi....

now roll the sector backwards through cylinder window whilst trigger pulled in semi...

as the sector's teeth finally disappear then the COL should soon rise, pop the trolley and reset the trolley....

If it doesn't operate correctly something like trolley/trigger/COL is not operating correctly & needs further investigation

Hopefully some pointers - but tbh re-reading some of you original post it is unclear if this box previously worked correctly

Also sometimes fitting or rebuilding a box from scratch throws up some other issues

or

fitting another gearbox or other make into another gun can throw up a few glitches - nothing major usually

but not everything is all 101% TM compatible no matter what they say

So it could be a qwirky issue with selector plate or fire select operation too

a little more info/history of gun/project might help but sounds like a simple mechanical COL issue at first guess

hope some of this helps - did my best from description or pointers to check

 
I brought the box ready to go on to find numerous problem so I have no idea I'd semi ever worked I brought a new selector plate as that was missing a bit and just ordered a new cut off leaver incase it's down to a wear issue. But thanks for your advice il try that later oh yeah I has the spring and I changed it as I brought a spring kit

 
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