Reason for necro-ing a bit was coz I was searching for stuff on G36's due to COL & selector plate
had discovered recently about the US G36's a few days ago after seeing very little recent US JG's
Then there was the difference between the Cyma/JG G36's COL after replacing with SHS steel one
See there are two types of v3 COL's and JG uses the silver type in their G36 - no extra material
Where as the SHS & other general v3 COL's come with an extra 3mm underneath
This is fine for say AK's as semi position is cut really low on AK selectors so it drops into position for semi
However Cyma use the re-enforced or extra COL and have their G36 plate cut really low to drop into semi
JG however use their silver non re-enforced COL and higher cut selector plate
pics say 1,000 words......
see the extra material on the black SHS steel COL
NOW the Cyma G36 box - look at COL and how low the selector plate is cut....
now you may not see that clearly and not a load of Cyma pics about but here is another from Begadi
Oddly enough if you buy a SHS COL & a SHS G36 selector plate you are going to need to mod them
The SHS COL has the extra underneath BUT SHS G36 selector is along the JG style cut much higher
So in use will not allow the SHS v3 COL to drop correctly to use semi....
see how high the selector plate is cut compared to Cyma's clear plate....
Where as when you look at the usual AK selector plate - the semi "drop" or semi/auto is cut MUCH LOWER
That is coz it is designed to be used with the re-enforced COL or the one with "extra" lug underneath.....
So I was looking around after discovering the usual WTF TM Compatibility bolloxs we often find
Suffice to say I either mod the SHS COL - dremmel as it is steel not alloy, mod the JG/SHS selector
or most likely a bit of both checking it all operates correctly - bummer but hey there ya go
better to find out sooner rather than later I guess, but SHS COL really works - perhaps too well
(I might even have to reduce the cam or rather the COL follower as it pops asap and pops very high (too high))
Back onto the gun itself......
Most China £100 guns are not assembled to a high precision std, TWG probably get these for say £50/60 or there abouts
Not uncommon to find some guns missing a nub in hop, even had a Cyma M4 missing a rear receiver bolt but no biggy
(had a spare set of pins, used the receiver pin through box on other gun)
Shimming in most guns, like hop assembly is at best meehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
sometimes f*cking dire like a Galaxy MP5k - f*ck me I thought the teeth were chipping off each other
rare moments you get lucky, some shoot really good out of box but often it is average to poor if unlucky
I bought 2 x Cyma 028a tactical AK's and one of them was hitting a tin at end of garden say 3 or 4 times out of 5 shots
The other - meeehhhhhhh not so great maybe just one on target & rest close but varying left/right
So like most guns/new cars - no two are exactly identical
Both the Cyma & JG barrels are 6.08's but the crown on Cyma's are good for a stock barrel that I will always give credit
The motor though, JG's are "supposed" to be usually 22tpa JG Blue - even on oem's neo or ferrite motors
but manufacturers do chop n change stuff from time time to time, but still many say they should be 22tpa
Without doubt though the Cyma stock motor is a slower motor with 27/28tpa like G&G std grey 18k motor in Raiders
The noise - well slapped together shimming, plus the motor angle - don't forget on v3's with motor cages
You can loosen and alter the angle a little to help with pinion/bevel meshing - not a great deal but can help
The G36c is a great floater gun that doesn't get enough respect/mention at times
The ambi fire for lefties, folding stock for CQB and easily unfold for general mid range assault work
Still loads of others like the Sig or G3's among others get forgotten about too
I'm just looking into the box a bit atm, the hop unit is no doubt something a little loose a tighten or say ptfe tape
No £90 gun will be perfect out of the box, but considering some of the crap at JBBG etc...
The odd bit of attention here n there is little to worry about - as I said I had a rear receiver pin missing from a CM517
The JG cylinder head should be a double o-ring and
the piston head is best stock one I've come across so far in cheapo/mid range guns I think
Gears - they do turn nicely, better than Cyma's and bevel will mesh better with most pinions than Cyma #1 bevel
I'd say shimming or most likely motor angle is out if it is still sounding rough tbh
The adjustment on spring guide - it is a two piece metal v3 spring guide and you might need a long allen key
don't ask me what size - could be 2 or 2.5 or maybe 3mm max, but it goes in and winds the grub screw
this pushes the two parts apart and increases the final tension on spring's release upping the fps a smidge
personally I found it a bit hit & miss when I first tried it but was likely turning the wrong way or something
Think I might just replace with v3 bearing spring guide and use the JG one in a cheapo Cyma M4 build maybe
But atm it is the steel COL and or selector plate I need to decide which one I attack first
But was shocked JG & others had to pull their G36's in the States - guess we do OK then with cheap G36's in UK/EU
.JPG)
