Jefftron Leviathan NGRS Settings

[C-Diddy]

I recently had a Leviathan fitted to my absolute workhorse TM 416 NGRS.

Programming via the app is really straightforward, and it's easy to set individual profiles for different play styles.

I am struggling a little with things like precocking and active braking, as in, I'm not sure of the benefits/drawbacks. Can somebody more enlightened/intelligent offer any advice?

I'll add that I'm 99.9% a semi-auto only player, and not interested in 50 rounds a second, speedy boi stuff. 

 

[Sewdhull]

Precocking is useful in semi because instead of the trigger starting the compression on the spring, it releases and already tensioned spring.

Saves you some milliseconds.

Downside is that your gearbox gubbins are under load all the time which will increase wear. You're likely to use more current as you are starting the motor under load to release the sector gear. Whether that matters is a matter for you.

Active braking is designed to stop the gearbox quickly, so it doesn't over run and cycle or part cycle an extra shot, or I would guess stop the action so that precocking is cocked in the right place.

I think the trigger response becomes moot if you're running on 11.1v as things are pretty quick already. Probably an order of magnitude better than your reaction time.

20rps is 50ms a shot, but a shot on semi probs ads 25ms to that for the motor to wind up.

 

[Adolf Hamster]

to be somewhat generic as i don't know the exact programming sequence of the jefftron:

if you're going to use precocking, then set active brake to on, otherwise off will hopefully prevent cycling issues from the gb stopping too quickly, precocking off+no ab=standard aeg cycling

to set precocking, a quick and somewhat easy way is to pull the upper reciever (or whatever you need to do to be able to see the back end of the gearbox whilst running) and do the following:

1. set precocking level to the minimum value

2. increment the precocking value by [appropriate feeling figure]

3. repeat step 2 until:

-you feel the response on semi is adequate for your needs

-the piston seems to reliably stop very near the end of travel

-you get a double fire, in which case decrement until it doesn't

4. profit

in terms of why to expend the effort, precocking is basically free "trigger response" ie it will make the gun "feel" snappy and responsive without it needing to have the brrrrrrt levels that typically come with a high rps build, for example an 18rps build (ie moderate in auto) with a brushless motor and copious precocking can feel in semi auto as snappy as you could realistically want a pew to be, but without the stripped pistons and other associated headaches a traditional high rof build entails.

in terms of downsides, precocking means that especially if you play in semi your spring will always be left in a "cocked" state, some mosfets (idk if the jefftron is one of them) can alleviate this by holding the trigger to de-cock the gun, meaning that the spring shouldnt lose power during storage. in-game however there's no real downside to precocking as long as your motor is man enough to cold-start when there's tension on the spring (if it isn't, that's gods way of telling you to get a better motor because even without precocking it could stall after a burst of auto).

 

[C-Diddy]

Really comprehensive answer Hamster, thank you. 

The settings are done by percentage on the app, and I do think it has the de-cocking feature you mention. I think I'll nip back down the range tomorrow and have a play. I just wasn't sure if one counteracted the other, or risked excessive wear on your motor or piston. AEGs are a dark art to me. GBBRs are far simpler ?

I did notice the grip getting warmer when shooting, but to be fair, this was on a range where I was rattling down more rounds than I ever would in a game!

One thing I will say is that the real steel trigger feel is barely noticeable. If that's important to you, I reckon the Perun Clicker in my son's gun has a more positive feel.

 

[Adolf Hamster]

I just wasn't sure if one counteracted the other, or risked excessive wear on your motor or piston.

In principle any active braking will cause additional strain on the motor, it ends up a tradeoff between how long you expect your pew to last before needing new contacts and the in game performance. Ofc with brushless you dont have to worry about contacts so might as well max out. In real use i've only met one pew where contact degradation was a real thing and that was a secondhand purchase.

I did notice the grip getting warmer when shooting, but to be fair, this was on a range where I was rattling down more rounds than I ever would in a game!

Yes motor heat comes hand in hand with the motor load mentioned above. Imo if it's not so bad that you can't hold the grip then it's fine. The key is the battery, more load on the motor means more load on the battery but if it's well rated for the current you're drawing then crack on.

One thing I will say is that the real steel trigger feel is barely noticeable. If that's important to you, I reckon the Perun Clicker in my son's gun has a more positive feel.

Ultimately it boils down to your personal experience, but if the gearbox is in good order (ie shimming etc not putting undue load on the gb) then the choice of motor/battery/precocking is a see-saw of how much snappyness you want against how often you want to change brushes (where applicable) or charge batteries or hold off until the grip cools a tad.

 

[Sewdhull]

Active braking dissipates the energy in the moving parts into the motor as heat so you may notice that.

If you do have a brushless motor which is nice for lots of reasons, active braking may be incompatible with with your trigger unit.

For active braking to happen the motor gets shorted, which can't happen if the brushless motor has no power as it needs power to turn on the motors MOSFETs, assuming it has them in place for motor shorting.

 

[C-Diddy]

I still have the original TM motor/ i was contemplating a Warhead brushless, but I'm in no hurry. Maybe if the OG gives up the ghost I will

 

[Sewdhull]

If the motor doesn't get too hot the magnets will stay good.

You can buy new brushes and clean the commutator.

I'm a huge fan of brushless motors but they can't be controlled like a brushed motor. Complicated (fully featured) MOSFETs, which I don't use, can be problematic with brushless motors and I can see why.