G&P Force Recon m4 11.1v lipo question

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ikarma70

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I own the above m4 and my question is this.

The gun uses an aluminium piston and the m140 high torque motor and as usual the recommended 7.4v lipo line however i reckon the gun could stand an 11.1v lipo 15-20c rating with a burst wizard plugged in, with the recoil system I think 7.4v lipos just might get drained too quickly...what do you guys think please?

Many thanks

Andy

 
Manufacturer recommends 7.4... user decides on 11.1.

Fucking Airsoft.

 
I reckon the internals will manage, the reviewer in AA sounds like he used 11.1v.

 
G&P have some of the crappiest put together gearboxes with shite gears so if you go 11.1v and it runs quick you stand a high chance of pre-engagement and with a full metal piston it will be bye bye to at least your piston and sector gear.

But hey it's your money and what do the manufacturers know, just because they designed and tested it they shouldn't be so quick to tell the weekend techie how to best utilise it. The bloody nerve of those engineer types.

 
if you keep a gun in the low 20's you "should" be ok

however a std gun that has been slung together without AoE etc... may not last as well as one that has been checked & serviced with common sense

there will always be an increased risk of cracking off the big initial pick up tooth when pushing a bog std gun blah blah blah

Approaching 20rps you should be ok but around 25rps the risk is increasing for sure - I'd say if your starts to double fire on semi then you are risking it

Even if you get away with it, you will very likely strip stuff if you get a jam, keep firing and as the blockage is slowing the piston as you fire

yup it will strip - think we all have done that one.....

Ohh seems blocked, peew peew peew - hmm stil blocked

peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew peew ZZZZZZZZ - oooh its f*cked

I wonder why that happened ?????

if you are hitting say 16rps on 7.4v with a faster motor then most likey 50% more will push you onto 24rps

so be careful when trying higher juice - test in semi first, if she double fires then maybe ease off

some people use 9.6v nimah as a stop gap between 7.4v & 11.1v

Me personally don't bother with LiFe 9.9v, I wasn't that impressed with their stop gap performance

plus you MUST use different charging settings to a LiPo or if you charge LiFe on LiPo settings you will wreck it

soz can't give you definate answer, all depends how fast and how well she is firing atm but hope some of this crap helps

 
Ok thankyou guys for your replies.

I will see how she goes on Sunday with 7.4v batteries, since I have never skirmished this gun I really should try her out first with the hop/hop rubber and tb barrel upgrades first.

I have a good sized 7.4v lipo that should last a good while.

Once again thankyou very much!!!!

 
or try it out completely stock first to save throwing £60 at barrels/hop/etc that may end up making it worse?

 
Reason it is hard to say is coz so many guns differ so much....

eg: G&G Raider has a $hit 18,000 rpm motor in it and on 7.4v you will get say 13rps

which on 11.1v will place you on about 19.5-20rps and quite safe to avoid PE

BUT

ICS M4's do seem to have a quicker motor in there and I'd do a rough guess at getting on for near 16rps on same 7.4v

that would in theory place you at 24rps

risk comes in when guns over-run or start to double fire - the damn gun is starting to talk to you

though a sticky switch or worn cut off lever will show these results too I might add....

the piston's weight also can help/hinder the piston returning quickly which is why most go for a lightened piston

but these crazy light swiss cheese stuff is when you start going a bit more involved in tuning the box to cycle quite quick

evey gun is built to varying standards - it is impossible to say for absolute sure yes/no to higher juice

but on higher juice the contacts will start to risk arcing more and the speed issue may become a problem depending how far you go

(or how close you get to risk PE)

if your fps is quite low at under 300 due to a light spring then be cautious as a lighter spring will return a piston slower than a 400fps one

As a ROUGH reckoner keep it @ 20 or very low 20's if I was you

Avoid to many upgrades straight away especially ones you may not need

as jcheeseright says see how you go....

fast rps & loads of "upgrades" will not make up for a pi$$ poor skill level - trust me I fully understand that bit

 
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My marksmanship is very good (top shot in my airgun club) hence I always upgrade to get more range and/or accuracy.

 
That only holds true if it IS an upgrade though, you're slapping parts in willy nilly with no benchmark to work from.

It's your money though, and I guess the more you spend the cheaper it is for me to get parts that actually do things so carry on!

 
ikarma70 said:
i reckon the gun could stand an 11.1v lipo 15-20c rating with a burst wizard plugged in,
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if the BW is just plugged in it does f*ck all to protect the trigger contacts

it needs to be properly wired in to function as a mosfet & reduce the switch contacts from arcing

alas on a v2 it requires opening the box - v3 can be rewired without opening the box up (usually)

deffo wait to see how it shoots - if you buy more than one of same gun like some people have done :rolleyes:

or like no two things are the same - you could have a really $hit gun out of box or a really $hit hot sweet gun out of the box

ahh well - reckon you might as well wait n see how she goes, bring a spare ol' faithful just in case never hurts blah blah blah

 
i have the lonex m4 with a piston in the buffer tube for the recoil. that runs on 9.6 nimh as standard. i did think of going to 11.1 lipo but dont want to fry an expensive gun as the one thats in it is recommended.

 
I'd always go a little bit easier on recoil/blowbacks

the G&G's blowback's like to crack up when you start pushing them too much

& others can have bits that work loose or fly off

so fully understand & respect any body not going too nuts with clickety clacky or padumph padumph peew peew's

edit - that reminded me that I didn't see first time, OP mentioned recoily thingymajig

yeah OP - soz I don't really use recoil stuff, so same subtle warning of not going too nutz applies as well

9.6v is a good stop gap for those seeking extra oomph but maybe not high burst 11.1v lipo especially on clickety padumph ones

 
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Sitting Duck said:
I'd always go a little bit easier on recoil/blowbacks

the G&G's blowback's like to crack up when you start pushing them too much

& others can have bits that work loose or fly off

so fully understand & respect any body not going too nuts with clickety clacky or padumph padumph peew peew's

edit - that reminded me that I didn't see first time, OP mentioned recoily thingymajig

yeah OP - soz I don't really use recoil stuff, so same subtle warning of not going too nutz applies as well

9.6v is a good stop gap for those seeking extra oomph but maybe not high burst 11.1v lipo especially on clickety padumph ones
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Click to shrink...
first night using mine it rattled my red dot and front flip up sights loose. and i was advised to tape the gear box pin over as they can be worked loose too.

 
I got a L85 well a cheapy an Army Armament R85 (bought on whim coz had to have one or so I thought)

I wasn't impressed with the clickety clack myself and often stuff flies off

people say the have "disabled" the recoil/blowback but I reckon they are just covering it that it broke off and haven't fixed it

others on here have the decent stuff that works well or gas recoils etc....

personally I just shake the gun a bit and jolt it upwards to make me look more hard core while I make some peew peew sounds to myself

(actually I'm so crap that maybe this jolt might help with my pi$$ poor shooting skills)

 
I have tested the gun on standard and have the results and the parts I upgraded are parts I already had in my parts collection so it's cost nothing.

I will give it a try tomorrow through my chrono, however I was disappointed with the original hop and rubber.

Sitting duck, the good thing about this gun is that you can remove the recoil weight and spring.

 
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Just tested the m4 and it's now doing roughly 380fps.... Must be an m100+ spring or it's got a damned perfect air seal?!!!!

 
Damn, is your hop on or set correctly say for .25's ?

That is more than just a bit over :(

That is a m120+ in there if she has a 215mm barrel

http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-rifles-c38/electric-rifles-c45/g-p-force-recon-m4-free-float-recoil-system-p3668

I don't know how recoil works on that gun, but is that with/without recoil on/off ?

Did you get it from LWA or whoever ?

Why the f*ck did a UK retailer sell people hot guns

Don't they chrono ffs before shipping ?

Damn annoying to say the least

Most likely spring change needed

Correct AoE would only reduce say 10 to 15fps max

Yeah mega bummer that one,

Make sure your hop is working correctly clutching at straws but you could drop 30fps if hop was completely off say but tbh sounds like a direct us import

Looking around places like evike just say 350 to 400 fps

All the same a UK retailer should of checked and declared this prior to sale or despatch I would of thought

 
I had the hop off and then applied some hop,

I have refitted the standard barrel and it's dropped to 330-340fps so I'm leaving like that.

I did buy it from LWA and I called them earlier and fitting a weaker spring could require more work given the recoil system and sector gear/aoe.

 
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