Dmr Vs Battery

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snuff

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My brother has DMR'd his AEG and now the battery dies really quickly.Prior to this the battery was fine for 1/2 day's play. Is there something else he needs to do or is the battery just not good enough?Thanks.

 
In a technical sense you are using more energy per shot with the stronger spring.

However its worth checking things like shimming, a common one is to reshim, get it perfect when holding the box together by hand, then everything tightening up when you bolt it together.

 
Single shots draw more power than continued fire. 

Same way that pulling away in a car uses more energy. 

If the DMR is also mosfetted. You can add into that additional motor braking. 

My TM Recoil will do about 7-8 mags on single fire, before it is flat. 
My PTW a little more but way less than when I play on a full auto site. 

Fuck i hate single fire sites.

 
Go Titan battery, Double (at least) the capacity over the lipo's

 
Titan batteries are just tarted up 18650's at a premium price

They might be good 18650's (the specs vary loads)

but even the high end 18650's do not outperform a decent similar spec LiPo

One of the best 18650's are the Molicel P26a...

https://www.fogstar.co.uk/products/molicel-p26a

or

https://18650.uk/product/molicel-inr18650-p26a-18650-battery/

But even these bad boys might not offer quite as much grunt as say a 30c LiPo

I was sceptical of the hype surrounding these new Titan batteries

(I'm not a big fan of LiFe batteries either)

But a recent geeky bench test shows maybe these Titan's & others are not all they are cracked up to be

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo.161379/

I personally would read up a bit and perhaps consider all options like a decent high capacity, 30c or 40c LiPo

(I mean true 30c or 40c not the 20~40c crap on label, but specific 40c rating)

Up to you, but I have my reservations back then & even more doubts now

 
From what I reading I have done, the Titan Power batteries shine on a a stock configuration or mildly tweaked guns. Have a friend who runs a RS Type 56 with the gearbox largely unchanged, loves them. Once you start tweaking the gear ratios or switching out for a torquer motor. Then they start to struggle.

That's an interesting link Duck,  HV Lipos are an area where there is very little on their application in airsoft.  Would be curios as to how the 7.6V performs.  There are times when the 11.1V is too much and the 9.9V Life are a difficult fit.  Must read up on them.  

 
DerDer said:
From what I reading I have done, the Titan Power batteries shine on a a stock configuration or mildly tweaked guns. Have a friend who runs a RS Type 56 with the gearbox largely unchanged, loves them. Once you start tweaking the gear ratios or switching out for a torquer motor. Then they start to struggle.

That's an interesting link Duck,  HV Lipos are an area where there is very little on their application in airsoft.  Would be curios as to how the 7.6V performs.  There are times when the 11.1V is too much and the 9.9V Life are a difficult fit.  Must read up on them.  
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That is also exact thoughts on LiFe's too, they seem to add a little bit more zest in a std stock gun.

But once you tweak a gun on 13:1, 30k say - nothing too insane...

When you do that the extra oomph from the 9.9v LiFe seems to vanish.

I know some run LiFe's in their guns - mostly stock or only very mild tweaks,

But when I tried a couple of LiFe's in some snappy guns I noticed no real difference over a 7.4v 25c

and it seems something similar is taking place in regards to Titan batteries.

If running a DMR on say m130, 22tpa, maybe stock or 16:1's

I'd be inclined to just run on 11.1v 25c with a decent capacity,

than a Titan perhaps...

but to each their own as they say, just don't think other stuff can match the brute raw grunt from a decent LiPo for when the build demands a bit more zest

 
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Increased battery depletion;

Higher spring rating.

Excessive active braking.

Gearbox drag (shimming/piston rails & fouling/motor height/dying motor).

Low torque or poor quality motor.

Under rated wiring capacity.

Battery / electrical connections.

Dying / near end of life battery.

 
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