CM 16 RAIDER not firing auto

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LazzurusMan

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so this problem started during my first ever time airsofting....wasn't helpful.


She fires okay in semi, occasionally I'll pull the trigger and she'll stick a little but that I don't mind too much and I guess is linked to my main problem. I have no full auto. U pull the trigger and I don't even get any life from the battery.

If anyone can give me any advice on this, what it could be, how to find out ec that'd be really helpful.

 
How long have you had it & is still under warranty ??

If it's under warranty, send it back & get it fixed that way

Otherwise it could be a fire selector problem to me

 
Never heard of a gun that will fire in semi and not full auto :S

Could be an issue with the selector plate not lifting the disengagement arm up enough, will the trigger pull as far back in auto as semi?

Like n1ckh said it should have a 2 year warranty if it was bought new, if so contact whome you bought if from

 
This is an ex hire gun I got online, and it doesn't move back far enough in auto to fire....most of the time. When it does it'll only fire one shot :/

 
Ahhh bummer, then it could be trigger contact issue which means you'll have to open the gearbox, could be the trigger itself that's getting fouled up somewhere

Main question is (just remembered :/)

What rifle is it ?? as most hire weapons are M4's or G36's

 
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n1ckh said:
Ahhh bummer, then it could be trigger contact issue which means you'll have to open the gearbox, could be the trigger itself that's getting fouled up somewhere

Main question is (just remembered :/)

What rifle is it ?? as most hire weapons are M4's or G36's
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Its a G&G raider. The clue was in the thread title ☺
 
As sp00n said selector plate is first area to check

(could be damaged/cracked but if cracked it would soon fall to bits I'd thought)

other areas like has been said is cut off lever not lifting clear of is getting caught on switch

thus lifting switch block upwards and main trigger lever is not engaging switch block

(should feel lighter resistance)

not a major big deal a new selector plate or switch is like a fiver

(plate would be easier to fit without opening box if you are careful)

but bad show muppets flogging moody stuff onto new comers

 
The gun has been fine since I got it, only £90. Just recently this happened.

I now have two more problems. While trying to take the stock tube off I caught the wiring and now need to re-solder my deans connector back on (simple, I can do that), and I've also found that the screw that hole the stock tube on has been completely rounded off. I can't undo it.
Does anyone know of any way to take the gearbox out with taking the stock tube off?

 
the stock tube has to come off

M5 bolt goes directly into the spring guide in the gearbox I'm afraid.....

from memory it should have been a philips me thinks

how boned is it ???

you need a long screwdriver or one with a philips bit and a long extension

try to get the correct tools rather than make do with incorrect one

this will save you have to resort to the good old dremmel to cut the whole thing off

replace bolt as it is shagged and only be worse to continue using it

 
Yeah it's completely ruined. I've tried at least 6 different cross heads and they've all either spun or jumped out. Guess I'm gonna have to get a new stock tube now then?

This £90 gun is starting to look a lot more expensive, and that's before I start putting the upgrades I want into her!

 
Cut the buffer tube off as close as you can to the screw so you can get a pair of pliers on the screw head

Buffer tubes are fairly cheap so you can order one with your upgrade parts

Look on YouTube for video tutorials, most m4 videos are the same despite the manufacturer

 
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If threadromancy is against forum rules I apologise, I didn't find anything about it.

Back on topic, I managed to get my buffer tube off and have a look at the selector plate.....and the spring fell out, and is lost for all time. Luckily my friend had a very similar one and once put back together I had no problems pulling the trigger all the way in full auto, but could not test fire due to a wiring problem. I fixed the wiring problem but as I had to re-open the gun something has once again gone wrong. Could someone explain exactly how the selector plate and cut-off works? When I had the gearbox out, even with the original spring it seemed that the spring would not completely push the plate back to full auto if I pushed it to safe. Is this the problem? And if so does anyone know where I could get a replacement spring for my selector plate?

 
google:

" how does an aeg cut off lever work "

in semi the selector plate is allowing the cut off lever to rise up (cam on sector gear)

and as it rises with switch engaged/trigger pulled it lifts the switch trolley up/away from trigger

which flies backwards cutting off switch circuit stopping the gun cycling

the little spring returns the cut off lever to rest allowing the switch to drop so trigger can relatch onto it

in auto the cut off lever is disengaged as it is pulled up out of the way

(said google it coz it probably will get a bit confusing as I try to explain it)

However......

on most old skool mechanical switch aeg's there is a "dead zone"

this is where when firing on semi the trigger is released too early and the cut off lever has not fully returned

Trying to fire gun is this state will have the trigger & switch trolley not latching correctly - often slipping off each other

or feeling a bit stiff....

DO NOT FORCE IT you can damage it which sounds like it may have happened perhaps to give odd symptoms

what you are supposed to do in this instance is switch to auto - fire once or nudge gun's cycle past this dead zone

(it is where cam is still lifting the cut off lever a smidge)

The operation of semi/auto is basically where the cut off lever is slipping under the switch to lift/disengage it on semi

or

slipping over the switch on auto so the cut off lever has no effect on the trigger/switch mechanism

spring itself - not normally sold on its own, normally in a v2 spring set for about fiver

http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/zci-gearbox-spring-set-v2

you could chop up say a clicky biro pen or something like that to find a similar spring

(yeah that bastid spring is tiny and boy does she fly well - lost a couple of those mofo's)

The only concern is that if the trigger/switch has been forced a number of times in the " dead zone "

it may have caused a little wear on the switch trolley or other parts involved

was gun new or s/hand - most parts will fit in a G&G ok but some parts are more compatible than others

and may need a tiny modification to get them working perfectly....

either new and been forced in dead zone

or s/hand and not serviced/repaired 101% correctly on mechanical side of switch

some M4 selector plates are slightly slightly different to others I have noticed

not just some are thicker/thinner but the selector cut out or semi point can be different

(an area that is modded/removed to disable auto firing on dmr's)

so the selector plate might have worn or failed to lift the cut off lever 101% correctly

impossible to say the exact single cause - take a few pics maybe so we can see & maybe rule out stuff

c'mon Santa - where's my f*ckin' bike !!!!!!

(04:30am xmas morning and no pressies yet - geriatric old fart)

Merry Christmas

 
LazzurusMan said:
This £90 gun is starting to look a lot more expensive, and that's before I start putting the upgrades I want into her!
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sorry to break this to you, but honestly, 90 for an ex rental G&G CM16 doesnt seem like a very good price at all. CM16 are not that expensive new, or secondhand for that sake - ex-rental usually mean they've been well abused.

I'd consider saving up a new basic cm16, rather than to start spend on this one, then swap the "raider" parts then keep the ex-rental for spares/repairs/backup.

 
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Well I think she's ex rental. The batteries were numbered and so was the gun, but she's performed better than I'd expected of a CM16. 350fps on the dot, surprising range and accuracy with my 7.4 lipo.

I'll take the gearbox out next time I'm with the gun and see if just re-aligning the selector plat fixes the issue. If so I think i'll have to pick up a new set of selector plate springs.

 
Selector plate spring replaced, fire selector working better, still only one shot in full auto but it doesn't have anywhere near as much resistance. The only thing I can think of is that the cut off lever isn't disengaging.

I really don't want to have to buy a new gearbox or gun as this thing repeatedly out performs other peoples stock CM16's. I don't know what the guys before me did to this, all I did was cut down the barrel and add a lipo.

 
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