AOE question

The longer barrel will help, probably too much! Try the half cylinder. As long as you can actually get an air seal it will at least give you an idea if you're heading in the right direction.

Porting your own cylinders isn't hard. Especially if you have a Dremel...

 
So I tried the other cylinder, air seal seemed ok so I put it in and chrono'd at 105fps! So put the other back in with the bearing back in and put the spring in the right way round and a nozzle with an o ring and now getting 270 fps and with the longer barrel getting 310-315 put the original spring in that was in the gun and get 290 fps, I've stripped and reassembled it 4 times tonight so I'm putting it all away for now and will try again another day. Any idea why I got a higher fps without the bearing? Might try the original spring without the bearing and see what happens lol

 
Hangtight said:
There is weirdness going on...
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Tell me about it, it's really baffling me. The original spring does seem similar stiffness to the nuprol m110 I brought if not stiffer but that still doesn't explain why I got a fps drop when I put the bearing back in. I've got until Sunday to sort it if not I'll be renting lol

 
So I've given in and settled with the 300fps for now, it's skirmishable anyway for the time being. I have no idea why but with both springs I'm getting 300fps without the bearing and 270 with the bearing! My only explanation for it (more of a guess as I have little knowledge of this) is that the springs are both the same so either the original is a m110 or the nuprol m110 I brought is less than that and also because the gun is over volumed, with the bearing on the piston the bb gets pushed out sooner than without with.

I could be completely wrong but if I have to strip it again I'll loose my mind!

On the plus side I can now completely strip a m4 aeg and reassemble it in less the 20mins lol

 
If it's any consolation my CQB gun has just been apart and together three times after it broke a tappet plate then went from 325fps to 50fps in four shots for no apparent reason after the bust bit was replaced.

But you do get good at taking the bloody things apart and putting them back together after the fifth or sixth time...

 
So used the gun today working fine no issues all day, quieter than before so happy with that so just need to up the fps a little as it was around 295-300 and will probably flat hop it too  :)

 
Found my lost fps. SHS tappet plate +SHS sector delay chip =150fps going missing.

Glad yours is working OK.

 
So what's that from? faulty parts or not very well matching to the rest of your gearbox? Have you fixed it

 
It worked fine with the JG tappet plate, but not with the SHS one. So now I've got a spare sector chip sitting in the 'tub of gub'. Once I took it out everything worked fine again.

 
SHS tappet plates are quite thick at the front where nozzle fits

They are about 2.55mm to 2.60mm

PLUS

if you look really carefully you see the ridge on which nozzle sits it off center towards the back

Other tappets are 2.0mm hard plastic like SRC

Or 2.25mm thickness

I sand the front of SHS tappet plate down to near 2.0mm

This may not seem a big deal - but it is the difference of a nozzle sealing properly or just lightly on bucking

Too light seal and the lips will blow under pressure when firing = fps loss

SHS tappets are still good and they do seem to retract a tiny bit more which means better feeding

Must check tappet doesn't bottom out on cylinder head at full retraction in some builds

Due to these slight differences that can effect all sorts of stuff hence check EVERYTHING you replace

tappet - nozzle length especially and how crap all fits together - operating as smooth as silk etc...

Think we are all still learning new crap with every box we do - I know I am

 
I sand the front of SHS tappet plates as a matter of course, and I've had a couple of occasions when they won't retract quite far enough to stop the sector lug chewing up the fin.

Bloody toy guns....

 
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