best tiny mosfet especially on a AK with battery under the cover.....
http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html
out of stock atm but email them, should be in stock in a week or so
should be able to cram that in up the front if your battery stick isn't too long
one of the tiniest mosfets out there and on a v3 no need to rip box open to fit
(V2's will always need opening up to rewire - unless somebody has got an army of ants working for them)
As for trigger pull,always going to get that on two part triggers in v3's
wear in one/both part will greatly increase this over time but something that is common in v3's
There are trigger mods which involves shortening the pull by adding material - usually metal or very hard plastic
usually glued in place with strong epoxy glue - JB Weld & such like
it is more a project to consider if you are quite sad with a fair bit of time on your hands
It will never ever be a hairline trigger mod like some of the fancy BTC or ASCU
just can't be as the mechanics of the trolley/sear/COL need a bit of room to operate correctly
I'd say you probably get it about half the trigger pull maybe a little less
you basically are taking out all the slack or free space in the trigger operation
but need to slightly mod the " lug " of the trolley that the COL slips under/over in auto/semi
but still leave enough room for COL to slip under and pop the trolley off the sear
but it takes time testing - retesting file some more, crap start again or order new switch
more glue, more filing - damn it trolley doesn't pop off the sear or reset correctly or semi not working 101%
But - if you endure all this it can work very well - but it takes a while to understand how it all works
Not really difficult, just a bit time consuming and often need to start over again first or second attempt
might need to buy another trigger switch if you balls up the trigger trolley - no biggy it is just the trolley
If this sounds too much then you could look to just add very thin material to the two part trigger/sear
just enough to take up some slack and where the actual trigger stops on its return
BUT the second part - the sear needs to rest in its correct place as it is part of the safety mechanism
so you can only take out any slack or wear on the trigger's resting point
hence after reducing what play you can, the next bit is adding material to actual sear/back of trolley/trim the lug etc....
plus loads and loads of testing the operation - PITA
TBH once more, a V2 is a bit more straight forward as you don't have the slack that the v3 has to begin with
the v3 sear is tiny thin mofo to glue material onto - but then I guess a v3 trolley stop won't snap off
(coz the stop is a chunk of metal frame not some poxy little lug that can break over time easily on most v2's)
Will somebody make a v3 box with a single piece trigger like a v2
or a v2 with a motor frame
Oh wait they did - HK33
TBH - unless you wish to rip most of your hair out - live with it I'm afraid
If a box needs a rebuild then consider it perhaps when you open her up next
If you trigger and or trolley is jumping off each other then go for it - you can often improve it with the mod
plus it is knackered atm so wtf you have to lose if you give up and buy new switch/trigger etc...
This is by no means a guide - you need to google that and a number of people do this a few different ways
I was merely explaining the principal yeah went way overboard as per usual
but it involves a bit of gluing - waiting, filing testing and repeat many times
then if you do get it sussed - just hope it all holds up without the glued bits coming adrift or failing on the field
Not that difficult but certainly not as straight forward piece of cake 5 min mod
