Airsoft Forums UK

Changing on the gun? No problem. 

On the Battery? Eh... Make sure you separate out the two prongs physically with some rubber or something when soldering. 

cut the red wire

Both. I've tried to do some reading up on it and have read some horror stories. Plan is to always have at least 1 wire connected and covered in heat shrink at all times.

@Musica I shall be cutting all of the wires (at some point) lol

yea safest is to do 1 wire at a time leaving the other in the old connector until you have soldered and wrapped the new one also helps not get confused which wire goes to what.

I guarantee I'll get one of the plugs polarity backwards and have to resolder lol

Dont have the soldering iron contact the deans connector for too long..or the plastic will melt. (Ruined x2 by applying to much heat) But it's pretty easy to do the mod.     Make sure you cut only one battery lead at a time and solder it to the deans plug..then the other lead.  Cutting both can cause lipo to ummm get a little excited and explode apparently. (So i've been told)   Here's a good video...  

@Monkman that is because if you cut both at the same time you bridge the circuit with the cutters. 

Yeah do NOT cut BOTH wires at same time - BOOMY ZAAAPPP

(Lipo shorts will require you to change your own shorts)

still got some wire cutters with a couple of welding spots from a lipo short

REMEMBER to apply heatshrink sleeve to wire(s)

(out of the way) BEFORE soldering connector

though guarantee you will forget at times in your haste & have to unsolder & redo it again when you realise your mistake

(I have never made this mistake (ultra sarcasm))

When soldering any connectors...

if possible mate it up with the matching male/female connector

eg: fit a male connector to gun & female to battery

but use a complete connector set

coz if the heat softens the connector your are working on

then the "complete set" will assist in holding the connection pins in place

thus reducing the chance or pins going wonky if too much heat applied

Well it won't stop you melting the whole thing but prevents it if it softens during soldering process - just a method/technique I use on various connectors, solder if possible with a complete set to hold it together

(ye olde audio din 5/7 or AT keyboard connectors and other stuff liked to go a bit wonky in the plastic of connector if you applied just a tad too much heat)

So I just grab a complete dean set or add a spare matching connector whilst I solder onto it - just helps stop the risk of warm wandering pins if it gets too warm during soldering stage

key/scratch/sand/file the tabs, lightly tin stuff etc...

maybe bit of flux, decent solder & soldering iron

(probably 30w or so for deans, 20w for switch/mosfet points or a 25w is quite nice all rounder)

bit of practice watch some vids etc....

piece of cake after a while, some fairly decent tools and a methodical approach etc....

you'll soon become proficient enough to do your own basic soldering

stuff like helping hands or a small craft bench vice can help holding stuff whilst you solder it all together

at a push & I've done it before a few times...

a pair of molegrips or locking pliers holding the deans....

tape in to bench/table will free up your hand to focus on soldering

(you will need a third hand to solder stuff together)

main thing is - just DON'T cut both wires on battery at same time

I would emphasise "decent solder".  I'm cheaper than a date with Scrooge McDuck, but even I won't waste my time (any more) with SUPER TOP BEST QALUITY Chinesium solder, no matter what it claims to be made of.  You'll just end up frustrated and with a bunch of melted components.

Lead is best.  Really, it is.  Sure, it's toxic as all get-out, but if you're doing a few components a year, that's not going to an issue.  Look for 60% tin, 40% lead, or my favourite, tin/lead/copper, e.g. Stannol 535269 in 1mm, if you can find it  (I currently can't  ).  If not, anything 60/40 will be fine.