Mokyo Tarui G17 race gun-ish on a budget?

[Skara]

Hey boiiiiis,

I have this old and battered TM Glock 17 that I got from a friend for a whopping €25 two years ago (yep, bought him a LiPo battery and he gave me the gun) and it's been sitting in a drawer ever since, fires nice but the trigger has a weird problem that doesn't affect operation.

I'm considering spending some shekels on it by building a race gun-sort of thinamajig.

 

The plan is to change out a few bits like the trigger for a TTI (yup, love me a TTI trigger), add a magwell and a repro ALG Defense 6 seconds mount because reasons.

 

Internally I am still not sure, maybe a CowCow hammer set?

 

Yay or nay?

Anything I should take care of while I crack it open?

 

Pic for attention ❤️

 

EDIT: Forgot to add that this gun won't get skirmished, it's just for plinking or the odd summer night cqb game if I don't feel like using my AAPs.

 

Edited May 17, 2022 by Skara

[Tackle]

With the exception of the dodgy trigger, of which we don't know the issue ?, but you feel us easily remedied with a much prettier replacement, if internally its doing what it's supposed to, I'd leave it be for now & just make it look the bollox. 

It is TM after all 😉

[Guest]

Don’t touch the internals, baring a stiffer hop arm, rubber and I-key

Possibly a tight bore barrel for shots and giggles

[Skara]

Cool, so leave the internals alone until they die (hopefully never) and just get the cosmetic stuff.

I think I already have a ML rubber + I-Key in there, I'll check later and if not, I should have a few lying around

 

On a side note, I was browsing on Airsoft World and found out they have an EU warehouse in Slovenia, though the website looks ultra shady as they don't take PP but only credit card payments.

Can anyone confirm they're actually legit or am I going to get scammed giga hard?

 

I will also order the 6 seconds mount from AliExpress, the one I've seen states that it's made for TM/WE glocks.

 

EDIT: Airsoftzone seems to have them in stock and I trust it as it's part of TMH, company that owns both Claw Gear and Invader Gear from which I have already made a couple of orders.

Edited May 17, 2022 by Skara

[Skara]

Got home, I already have a brand new 50° Decepticon + I-Key in the gun, and I have no idea when I did that.

When my TTI trigger arrives I'll also fuck off the frame safety.

 

But anyway, I'm trying to ID the trigger issue:

When I dry fire (so there is no "auto" resetting of the hammer) the trigger should, in theory, stay locked back.. in my case it doesn't happen, it is always sprung forward.

If I remove the slide and fire, the trigger actually locks back, until I touch the trigger bar (slightly push it down to simulate the slide being on), in which case the trigger unlocks itself and jumps forward..

What could it be?

[Guest]

Is the slide depressing the knocker lock bar?

Have you actually tried firing it with gas?

[frontsight]

7 hours ago, Skara said:

The plan is to change out a few bits like the trigger for a TTI (yup, love me a TTI trigger), add a magwell and a repro ALG Defense 6 seconds mount because reasons.

How about a comp? I think it would look extra race-y with a comp sticking out😁 Especially with the 6 second mount. The TM hammer assembly is pretty durable, so why not spend that money on a threaded barrel (~20 ish) and a comp (~10)

 

42 minutes ago, Skara said:

If I remove the slide and fire, the trigger actually locks back, until I touch the trigger bar (slightly push it down to simulate the slide being on), in which case the trigger unlocks itself and jumps forward..

I have a similar issue and was looking for an answer on this as well. The trigger stays back by catching on the disconnector, and this is basically held in by friction. When something pushes the trigger bar down (like the BBU when the slide goes back if it's working as intended, or you manually pushing it like you mentioned) this releases this friction hold and the trigger goes forward. I think that the slide is pushing the trigger bar down too much even when in battery, or the friction between the disconnector and trigger bar is not great enough to hold it in place.

 

My theory is that as the trigger bar wears down where it sticks out, it should decrease this issue (less pressure pushing down the trigger bar) But unfortunately I'm not that familiar with Glock internals so kinda hoping someone who's more knowledgeable has an answer. Just FYI mine had the same issue with both stock and upgrade parts; so don't buy a replacement trigger bar as it probably won't fix the issue.

Edited May 17, 2022 by frontsight

[Skara]

 

Short, crappy video of the issue.

 

Good shout on threaded barrels and comps, I'll see what I can find Possibly both red to match the trigger

[Skara]

On 17/05/2022 at 23:18, rocketdogbert said:

Is the slide depressing the knocker lock bar?

Just checked, it does.

As I said, with gas and BBs it works as intended, the trigger jumps forward only when dry firing.

[Guest]

21 hours ago, Skara said:

 

Short, crappy video of the issue.

 

Good shout on threaded barrels and comps, I'll see what I can find Possibly both red to match the trigger

sounds like the wrong trigger bar to me.

TM hammer  assembly has a large lug on the sear, small tip on the trigger bar, WE is opposite

Looks like a WE or generic other hammer assembly you have there, TM has shallow lugs under the rails to keep the polymer slides in place, and is a very dark shade of green, almost anodised rather than painted.

That looks black and painted.

 

It is very difficult to tell from your vid though 

[Skara]

3 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

sounds like the wrong trigger bar to me.

TM hammer  assembly has a large lug on the sear, small tip on the trigger bar, WE is opposite

Looks like a WE or generic other hammer assembly you have there, TM has shallow lugs under the rails to keep the polymer slides in place, and is a very dark shade of green, almost anodised rather than painted.

That looks black and painted.

 

It is very difficult to tell from your vid though 

It could be that the previous owner (my friend got the gun as part of a lot one of his colleagues was selling for dirt cheap, my friend never touched it and it went straight to me) fucked around with it.

Tbf it is rather scuffed inside, here are two pictures, if you want me to take better quality ones or specific parts, tell me and I'll do it tonight.

 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Skara said:

It could be that the previous owner (my friend got the gun as part of a lot one of his colleagues was selling for dirt cheap, my friend never touched it and it went straight to me) fucked around with it.

Tbf it is rather scuffed inside, here are two pictures, if you want me to take better quality ones or specific parts, tell me and I'll do it tonight.

 

Trigger bar is bent, can happen from squeezing too hard, the tip should be parallel with the slot, hammer looks bent as well 

[Skara]

On 19/05/2022 at 12:32, rocketdogbert said:

Trigger bar is bent, can happen from squeezing too hard, the tip should be parallel with the slot, hammer looks bent as well 

Sorry forgot to update.

Hammer looks straight, but at this point I will replace that too.

 

Guarder parts any decent? I can source them locally.

[Guest]

20 minutes ago, Skara said:

Guarder parts any decent? I can source them locally.

No, they only work with other guarder parts. You need a genuine TM trigger bar, unless you’re 100% sure you can return the existing one to shape, and re-temper it so that it’s strong again

[Stratton Oakmont]

20 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

No, they only work with other guarder parts. You need a genuine TM trigger bar, unless you’re 100% sure you can return the existing one to shape, and re-temper it so that it’s strong again

My experience is the same as rocket highlights, I purchased a tti trigger with the relevant trigger bar. Trigger is a welcome improvement but the stock tm trigger bar works whereas the aftermarket one replicates your problems 

[Skara]

Cool, so TM bar it is (much cheaper as well, €8 instead of 18 lol).

Do 5ku barrels need any sort of modification to fit?

Sorry for the silly questions but apart from the AAP and mk23 (both have rather straightforward parts and installation) I don't have much experience with GBB compatibility.

[Skara]

Update:

Bought the trigger bar, hop wheel and outer barrel.

 

Now the 5ku barrel won't release the inner -.-

Edit: nvm I pried it open I guess no threaded barrel for me.

Also it was sitting funny inside the slide (recoil guide was sticking out 3/4mm).

 

Anyway, trigger and bar installed, seems to have fixed the issue I was having, only thing left is now the 6 seconds mount and then I'm done.

Edited May 26, 2022 by Skara

[Skara]

Le mount has come, it's one chunky boi.

 

[Skara]

One last update:

Took a file to the 5ku barrel and slightly lowered the guide for the small round pin on the hop up chamber, now the barrel fits.

 

All it needs now is the hop set and dot zeroed, then it can fuck off back in the drawer for the next 2 years or so.

[Skara]

Smol question:

 

Does anyone know of a magazine base plate that doesn't "ride up" as much as the stock TM plate?

 

Asking because the TM plate is a little bit too thick on the top (where the guide rails for the magazine base are) and prevent the magazine release from engaging the mag cutout.

 

I know the rubbery ranger plates I'm using on my AAP mags work but they're a bit shit and some of them are broken already despite me not having dropped those mags, not even once by accident.

[frontsight]

3 hours ago, Skara said:

Does anyone know of a magazine base plate that doesn't "ride up" as much as the stock TM plate?

I had this issue too when I installed a magwell. On other forums I've found that guarder baseplates (both thin and extended) can solve this issue.

 

I didn't want to spend any more money though so I just left it as stock and it somehow solved itself😂

I think the tolerance issue was really small for me and the magwell eventually squeezed the baseplate enough to fit.

 

If you want to go DIY I guess you could carefully file a bevel on the top of the baseplate.. I thought of doing this but thankfully the issue solved itself

Edited June 4, 2022 by frontsight