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Low FPS


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1 minute ago, miserydrift said:

haha yeah ive noticed tht with airsoft tech so far lol

 

Yep, tis a recurring theme sadly.

 

But suppose they couldnt make it too easy for us, spoil the fun lol.

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havent cleaned it yet as when taking apart that pin came out but didnt see where from so before i go any furthere where about does that pin go in the hammer set up?

20210222_194118.jpg

 

definatly spoil the fun haha lol

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The pin in the middle?

 

Looks like the detent for the safety- theres the bar on the side of the frame with 2 detents and a spring, the front detent puts tension on the slide catch the rear one (which normally escapes) puts tension on the safety.

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13 minutes ago, miserydrift said:

havent cleaned it yet as when taking apart that pin came out but didnt see where from so before i go any furthere where about does that pin go in the hammer set up?

20210222_194118.jpg

 

definatly spoil the fun haha lol

That pin is out of the tube left side of frame between the safety lever and the slide stop lever. It's the slide catch detent pin. It's shaped like that to stop it coming out of the front of the tube when you remove the catch for strip down.

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so theres 2 pins on the safety? as i have the spring loaded one already removed *yeah hunting for the spring was a bitch*

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6 minutes ago, miserydrift said:

so theres 2 pins on the safety? as i have the spring loaded one already removed *yeah hunting for the spring was a bitch*

 

The tube has 2 pins and 1 spring that pushes between them.

 

The front pin normally doesnt come out on its own but the spring and rear pin jump out the moment you pull the safety out.

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That’s the way. They’re a right bastard when you’re getting the thumb safety back on...

 

You’ll need a small Allen key or flat head to compress the pin in as you rotate the safety. Slip and it’s off to another dimension somewhere in your carpet!

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13 minutes ago, Alimcd said:

You’ll need a small Allen key or flat head to compress the pin in as you rotate the safety. Slip and it’s off to another dimension somewhere in your carpet!

 

Imma say 2 words that will change your life:

 

Dental pick

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gd call! i uses a small modelling file hahah ;)

 

ok so all back together and no change other than gun sounds a bit nicer lol

i have seen a hicappa vid where the bend the spring for the hammer slightly is that advisable to try or should i move on from that area and exp[lore the gas router?

 

 

striker not hammer haha*

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I’d try the hammer spring first.

 

One cludgy way of adding tension to the hammer spring if it’s light striking is to place a BB under the hammer spring in the MSH.

 

Certainly quickly rules out light striking

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will give that a try thank you for the tips so far man you and adolf have been a great help :)

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forgot to mention the other day i noticed that part doesnt seem right in my opinion i know the slide pushs it down but dont think it catchs properly which in turn the strikers not going in fully

 

@Adolf Hamster @Alimcd

 

152905688_127850282583250_2711547859157797832_n.jpg

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so far shes had xomplete nozzle assembly bbu and an autobotbucking done

float valve which part is that exactly bud still getting to grips with names of the parts

 

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9 hours ago, miserydrift said:

so far shes had xomplete nozzle assembly bbu and an autobotbucking done

float valve which part is that exactly bud still getting to grips with names of the parts

 

 

Float valve=the little plastic valve on a spring that's inside the nozzle, sometimes also called a rocket valve

 

It directs gas forwards down the barrel then closes, sealing the cylinder so it can cycle.

 

this could be the cause of low fps, if the spring is weak/damaged/been cut, or the valve is sticking and not resetting then the valve will close too easily, cutting off gas supply early.

 

eg if you've ever heard of an "npas" kit for a gbbr this is basically an adjustable float valve.

 

there are aftermarket versions- high flow/low flow valves and springs of various strengths, but very easy to totally fuck up a gun by changing them if you don't know what you're doing so my general philosophy is leave it stock.

 

depending on the manufacturer this should have come as part of the nozzle assembly- you'd know if you changed it as it'll be the gubbins that goes inside the nozzle. if the new nozzle came with a new float valve then we can probably rule out that being the cause of the issue.

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ahhh got ya if u had said rocket valve haha so many diff names for parts lol

 

well def rule that out as was full nozzle kit so that was replaced

yeah dont think ill go down the npas route

nightmare trying to figure this gun out lol

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56 minutes ago, miserydrift said:

ahhh got ya if u had said rocket valve haha so many diff names for parts lol

 

well def rule that out as was full nozzle kit so that was replaced

yeah dont think ill go down the npas route

nightmare trying to figure this gun out lol

 

npas is mostly for gbbr's to get them dialed down to a specific limit, not really much call for using them in pistols as with a few exceptions they tend to be far enough below our power limits.

 

sadly that's the gbb life, part of the reason it's a standard reccommendation not to jump straight into airsoft with a gbbr.

 

i'm struggling to think what else to look at. we've cleared the hop, nozzle, bbu and mag router, i'm assuming you didn't find anything of note in the trigger mech that was worn/jamming.

 

did you mention what gas you were using? if you're using a lower powered gas try higher powered, but also the reverse if you're already using a higher powered gas.

 

a higher pressure gas can drop fps by making the valve on the magazine too hard to open for the hammer setup (essentially light striking).

 

there's also the hammer spring, did you try the bb under the mainspring?

 

only other thing i can think is when you're chrono'ing is the hop turned on? the bb needs a little resistance to help it build up backpressure before it starts moving.

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Has anybody mentioned temperature ? how warm are the mags when you use them ? A cold mag makes a hell of a difference to fps. Just been out testing my boneyard combat master and the difference between a cold mag and one thats been in my pocket for a while is night and day in terms of kick.

 

Nick

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erm ive made a complete and utter feck up...the pistol was never low fps my fecking chrono was set to m/s instead of fps only figured it out cause step son wanted to do his lol and his came up at 80 odd was like hold on cant be right,tried my shotty through it 44 the noticed was on ms lol achwell got spare parts for when she does go

was in a warm housee bud so mags were upto decent temp but was my own fecking fault lol

 

 

thank you @Adolf Hamster and @Alimcdfor alll the help!!

152465244_263495595391288_7854603408808888547_n.thumb.jpg.051b69d4d2bd62003d51951eab2a1bc3.jpg

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haha, was not expecting that one, no wonder nothing helped.....

 

at least the work isn't wasted, a learning experience is always good. guess that means the original nozzle maybe was good after all so now you've got spares.

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haha me neither llf

totally bud,yup have put alol the original parts back in and keeping the new ones for the spares may pick up another as see these as boneyards quite often lol

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