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Broken Cyma Cm028


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Hi,

Unfortunately I fell on top of my Cyma CM028 during an airsoft skirmish at the weekend and it broke the body and enclosure that goes around the hop up.The barrel is also bent.

I have a replacement body but not sure if the hop up body or barrel are replaceable or where to source them from.

Can I just bend the barrel back or just shorten it to cut out the bent section?

 

Is it a write off or can it be repaired?

ThanksIMG_20201027_124915.thumb.jpg.d927dfe5d659f953dcd05ef3fd6f2e37.jpg

IMG_20201025_120855~2.jpg

IMG_20201027_125939.jpg

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Inner barrels are easily replaceable, so that'd be a simple job and not massively expensive (dependant on what barrel you'd go for obviously), hell someone might part with their old stock brass barrel for pennies after they've done an upgrade. You could attempt to bend it back but it won't end up being as straight as it was when it was manufactured (say goodbye to accuracy) - better off with new or second hand there rather than repairing.

As for the hop unit enclosure, that looks very much one piece I doubt you'll be able to sort readily available external/body spares for an entry level CYMA in the UK or Europe. That is very much just speculation and a quick google on my part, though I've never seen externals for a TM clone cutting about in my years looking. It looks a bit more repairable (potentially just a bit of bending, though can't really see anything else from the screenies) - might be worth having a go, you'd have nothing to lose really.

Honestly though for the cost/time you'd be putting in, compared to the price of the gun or similar models, I think you're better off looking for something new. The CM.028s are old tech, based on TM spec guns from years ago and have moved on. For not much more than they cost you get a CYMA based on the VFC rifles which are easier to disassemble and built a lot more solidly.

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Unlucky mate.  (Not saying it was the cause but falling on your weapon is the reason I don't use a sling in a game)

 

As Shaydee said, you can't bend the the inner barrel straight but not a problem to replace for £10-20  (look for same length)

Unfortunately the rest isn't so easy.

 

The main problem I can see from the pics is the broken rear end housing. (Top pic, right side)

 

If you're going to go for a repair then try and stick it together with some JBWeld or other liquid metal adhesive and see how it goes.

When you get the new barrel and put the hop unit on, make sure it aligns properly with the air nozzle.

That's assuming there aren't any other broken/bent parts.

 

To be honest it does look like a new gat will be in your future.

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Thanks for the replies!

 

I take it all barrels would fit as long as they are the right length? I measured it at 455mm. Looking at this Madbull just not sure it's worth spending £30 for a barrel on a £90 gun. I might bend my existing one and keep an eye out for a used one.

 

Will try to use some epoxy adhesive on the broken part for now. The part is made from plastic.

 

Which Cyma models are based on VFC? I really like the CM045 or the CM011 high speed. 

 

A new gun is definitely in my near future but feels wrong to just throw this one away without attempting to fix it first.

 

 

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1 hour ago, emit said:

Thanks for the replies!

 

I take it all barrels would fit as long as they are the right length? I measured it at 455mm. Looking at this Madbull just not sure it's worth spending £30 for a barrel on a £90 gun. I might bend my existing one and keep an eye out for a used one.

 

Will try to use some epoxy adhesive on the broken part for now. The part is made from plastic.

 

Which Cyma models are based on VFC? I really like the CM045 or the CM011 high speed. 

 

A new gun is definitely in my near future but feels wrong to just throw this one away without attempting to fix it first.

 

 

Anything in the CYMA 40 series is VFC based - anything in the 20 series is TM based.  The 40 series is excellent the 20 series is not.  If you can stretch to it look at E&L on Gunfire or an LCT.  They really are better.  The 40 series is excellent for its price point but will still have a pot metal trunnion which as you have found out can be an issue if you fall on your rifle.

 

 

For between £235 - 290 you can get an E&L frrm Gunfire.  An LCT AKM or AK74 will be around £300.  CM048 is £161 at Taiwangun https://www.taiwangun.com/assault-rifle-aeg/cm-048-cyma?from=listing&campaign-id=22

 

Depends what aesthetic you want.  Also, Arcturus at Tiawangun are basically E&Ls and are excellent as well.  Happy shopping

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To be honest I don't think any rifle would survive the full weight of a person falling right on the front & rear join but its unlikely to happen again hopefully.

 

I agree, the CYMA 4* series are much better than the 2* you had and almost on par with LCT. (Duno about E&L as I have no experience with em)

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11 minutes ago, EDcase said:

To be honest I don't think any rifle would survive the full weight of a person falling right on the front & rear join but its unlikely to happen again hopefully.


 I doubt even a full real steel version of any gun would survive in any form if I fell on it - even a Barrett 50 cal wouldn’t survive it :P

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2 minutes ago, MiK said:


 I doubt even a full real steel version of any gun would survive in any form if I fell on it - even a Barrett 50 cal wouldn’t survive it :P

It would have to be a REALLY heavy person to break a Barrett 😆

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30 minutes ago, EvilMonkee said:

Anything in the CYMA 40 series is VFC based - anything in the 20 series is TM based.  The 40 series is excellent the 20 series is not.


Just to add - not completely everything in the 4x series is VFC based, the CM.047 for example is still based on the older TM stuff. They mostly are, but there's the odd one or two things that aren't for some reason

@emit deffo have a look at trying to bend the hop structure back in. Bending the barrel back would most probably end up in something not perfectly straight and BBs bouncing off walls - perhaps see if anyone at your local site has got a spare stock barrel going handy, odds are someone'll have one lying about that they don't need you could have for cheap. You can afford to go a bit shorter, you'll just lose out on some FPS and be a bit overvolumed, but nothing that's going to be massively noticeable from the stock gun. Wouldn't be any worse than it is currently at the very least!

Christmas in two months, throw a nice shiny new gat on the list 😁

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That's a 28a with a wooden stock

(or most likely the wooden look 028 with "tactical" ris & grip kit)

Grab a new barrel, try the JB Weld option - worth a go

could work to get it going again as a spare/back up gun

 

could buy another 028

but avoid the 520 or 522 models

yes you could buy the cheaper AK 522 but the flash hider is fixed & doesn't unscrew

but you are looking for the front assembly, so you could buy it and rip it all apart I guess

 

personally if the JB Bodge isn't ultra solid and is loses a bit of accuracy, or shoots slightly off

(correct-able-ish, but not quite as accurately straight as previously....)

 

Then I might be tempted to cut down the outer barrel a bit, to make a slightly shorter 300mm AK

then use it for close/mid range stuff and hopefully you won't fall on it so easily next time in its delicate repaired state

 

Yeah if I could find a spare 350-363 M4 inner barrel, chuck that in once bodged

see how it shoots & if it kinda works, consider cutting the thing down a bit perhaps

 

pity TWG don't stock the shorter 521 & that has a flash hider that unscrews

but the 52x series AK's have cheap bits like plastic dust cover

so time anybody buys the cheaper 52x AK's and starts replacing the weak plastic bits

it soon mounts up and the extra for a 028 is a wiser option imho, time you replace the crappy bits

 

in your case you could buy the 52x to gut & mess about perhaps

but probably not really wise unless money is tight

 

could just flog it as a boneyard, or look out for another AK needing attention

 

but worth give it a go boding it with JB Weld - nowt to lose

 

What you could do is fit a plate 30mm x 45mm to the front pair of screws

so that it binds the crack together - can't fit a plate to the rear scews coz it's where mag goes - duuhhh

 

But you could bind a plate to the front screws

AND....

if you don't want to cut up a bit of metal then luckily for you there is this....

 

Hunting AK 47 AK 74 Ris Rail Side Front Top Scope Flashlight Laser Dot  Sight Mount Receiver|sight mount|ris railak 74 ris - AliExpress

 

So you could add one of those scope mounts, that would help bind & reinforce it a bit more

(mind you you may find these cheapo ACM mounts, might need a tiny mod/file/dremmel to fit on certain AK's

typical TM compatible BS as per usual in airsoft)

 

Or make up a metal plate 30mm x 45mm with 2 holes etc...

 

yeah, with a plate of some sort or mount, then JB the cracked stuff

altogether I reckon it can be bodged up to work again as a 455mm AK once more

and work fairly well if done properly with plate/mount as I suggested

 

have a look around for a scope mount - maybe about £15

trouble is a lot of places seem to be out of stock so you might have to order from ali-express

or somewhere...

 

I found this...

 

https://www.ant-supplies.uk/rail-base-mounts/ak-side-mounts.html

 

BUT I HAVE NEVER USED THEM OR HEARD OF THEM

but £12 & maybe free post could be worth a shot

 

never heard of them but they might be OK...

https://www.airgunforum.co.uk/community/index.php?threads/ant-supplies.245463/

 

hope some of crap helps

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1 hour ago, Sitting Duck said:

 

Then I might be tempted to cut down the outer barrel a bit, to make a slightly shorter 300mm AK

then use it for close/mid range stuff and hopefully you won't fall on it so easily next time in its delicate repaired state

 

Yeah if I could find a spare 350-363 M4 inner barrel, chuck that in once bodged

see how it shoots & if it kinda works, consider cutting the thing down a bit perhaps

 

 

I really like the idea of a shorter AK as I always found it a bit unwieldy.

Out of curiosity - how are all the M4 managing to have range and accuracy with the shorter inner barrel but the ak needs a 455mm one?

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15 minutes ago, emit said:

I really like the idea of a shorter AK as I always found it a bit unwieldy.

Out of curiosity - how are all the M4 managing to have range and accuracy with the shorter inner barrel but the ak needs a 455mm one?

Because there is no difference in accuracy or range between 200mm and 450mm inner barrels. 

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15 minutes ago, Asomodai said:

Because there is no difference in accuracy or range between 200mm and 450mm inner barrels. 

 

The aksu says hi, from the other side of the field.....

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34 minutes ago, emit said:

I really like the idea of a shorter AK as I always found it a bit unwieldy.

Out of curiosity - how are all the M4 managing to have range and accuracy with the shorter inner barrel but the ak needs a 455mm one?

 

The reason why I suggested shortening the barrel was if the bodged AK was a little less accurate...

then you have nowt to lose - and yes AK's are bit long imho too

(but then an ultra stubby Dragunov would not be "realistic" imitation firearm I guess)

 

The AK47 has the longer barrel to match the appearance of the traditional AK47 is the answer

 

in reality I prefer say an M4 based gun with up to about 300mm

I'm not even keen on the 350/363 M4 carbine length

 

It is all down to personal preference I guess

I started to mention chopping it down - if the gun loses a bit of accuracy

and the gun is semi fucked anyway so nowt to lose if repair doesn't work out a complete success

 

then i got thinking about the JB and thought of a thin metal plate to help bind/strengthen the repair

started to measure roughly the area to play with and then I remembered about the scope options on AK's and...

Oh - yeah, them underneath scope mounts, that would be ideal perhaps....

 

So with a plate/scope mount, epoxy/JB Weld the cracks, the repair option is looking a bit more viable

and yes, with a strengthening plate & epoxy the cracks - I reckon the project is worth a go

Now the outer barrel could be a bit bent - you get almost anything like a long tube/bar/roller

and drop it on a hard flor - or some clumsy git stands on it etc...

then it is quite possible it will bend or become less true

 

This gun is some ol' shit knocked out of the cheap in a Chinese sweat shop not some precise F1 or NASA engineering

But if the outer barrel is a bit curved, so it shoots a tiny bit right or to the left

then you could have the option to cut it down - but honestly it was an idea if the gun is shooting a bit wanked

 

Also if you couldn't source a 450mm inner barrel, but a m8 had an old M4 363mm barrel to try

then you could test & if you really really wanted to and didn't care much hack 4 inches off the outer etc...

 

I mean a plate will work, say 1mm thick, 2 holes drilled and the screws should be long enough as is

it isn't going to make it as good as new & the epoxy can crack or go, especially if it gets wet & whacked on field

but the plate will assist the repair in holding and should squeeze a bit more life out of the repair project

 

With the repair/plate/scope mount option, I would tend to keep it as a 455mm AK if all works ok-ish

the chopping down was only a suggestion if the barrel was a bit bent towards the end of outer barrel say

 

The much shorter AK's like the cheap as chips 521 would be a fun project gun

with a 233mm barrel you could Short stroke to hell, or heck even a DSG sleeper gun

but the 521 is not available for £65 at TWG :(

and sod paying over £100 for it at a UK retailer

or a bit more for the JG Spetsnaz Tokyo Soldier thingy - nah sod that

but the cheapo 521 was a cheapo project gun & flash hider unscrewed (520/522 does not)

 

the chopping down was wild crazy idea if shooting a bit pissed and nowt to lose

BUT I'd tend to keep her as a 455mm 028 if repair works out reasonably OK

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1 hour ago, Sitting Duck said:

The AK47 has the longer barrel to match the appearance of the traditional AK47 is the answer

 

of the not particularly long list of reasons to run a longer inner barrel, this is right at the top.

 

although trying to explain to people that barrel length means nothing when you're holding a dragonuv is a bit awkward :P

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