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Rifle Doesn't Fire, Makes Weird Clicking Noise When Trigger Pulled, Video Included.


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10 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

I would ordinarily recommend Turnigy NanoTech from Hobbyking,

 

Can confirm, I was just looking on there right now.  Not a lot of high capacity stuff.

 

 

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But they are super cheap, less than £7, so buying 2 or 3 won't break the bank.

 

I'm a fan of having two smaller capacity rather than one biggun, then swap at lunch.  I know there's an argument that you can over-draw and kersplode an under-rated battery, but I doubt that's going to be an issue for a stock Nuprol.

 

As long as it's not locking up...

 

I'm kind of surprised that OP's fuse hasn't popped.  There is a fuse in there, right?

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Before delving into the guts of the gun itself - try removing the stock tube which is retained by a bolt that goes through to the spring guide - retest with the stock tube detached and then come back 

Everything arrived super early, the charger works great, and when I plugged in my old battery it only detected 1 cell so I think it's safe to say it's dead. Also the bic pen technique was a big

I'll see if the battery fixes it and if it does I'll get a new charger before fully charging the battery.

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1 minute ago, EDcase said:

Yeah, a higher 'C' rating is more important than mAh

 

Current = C x capacity, so both matter.

 

OP's Nuprol battery should be able to provide the claimed meaty 66A, but... Nuprol.  Then again, he's on a Nuprol stock motor.

 

I'm actually thinking that I should upgrade my batteries now that I'm on gruntier motors.

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33 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:

 

Current = C x capacity, so both matter.

Yes, they both matter. The mAh is the total capacity per hour but 'C' is the maximum discharge current so if its too low then the battery will fail no matter what the mAh capacity.

For airsoft they should be at least 20C

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Long term, batteries are consumables, a backup is always handy, and those cells aren't balanced, so it would be lowest risk and cost to try a new battery.

 

However, I'm also looking with suspicion at that VTE600 charger.  I have one but I was never happy with it: it ran hot and I wasn't confident about the circuitry given that (if I remember correctly) it changes the indicator light colours gradually rather than tripping on and off discretely.

 

Sadly there's no way to tell whether it's the charger or the battery at fault without replacing at least one of them.

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I'd get a good battery and charger.  They're useful for any future AEGs too.

A good charger is important because it protects your investment in batteries.

 

Nuprol don't have a great reputation.

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2 hours ago, Hashe8848 said:

Ok cool, I saw someone mention the ISDT q6 nano earlier, would you guys recommend that aswell? I'd probably buy a charger with batteries to be safe.

 

Good reviews on YouTube. I've not heard anything bad about them in the RC community. I've got one on order, so will be able to give a better review when it arrives. Mine is actually intended to be used a field charger for when I go RC flying, using a 12v Leisure battery as a power source. 

 

They are available from UK retailers too, but they never stay in stock for very long. Hopefully that's a positive indication. 

 

I know a few guys with SkyRC S65s, less flashy (monochrome screen) but apparently solid performers. AC powered so no external supply needed, just plug into the wall socket and go. £32 on www.HobbyRc.co.uk (excellent UK company). 

 

I'm using some old CoreRC chargers that I picked up second hand for a tenner each as my 'home' chargers. They are old and slow, the balance logic is crap compared to newer designs, they've got the job done for the last couple of years but I will be replacing them soon.

 

I always run at least two chargers for redundancy, if one breaks I can still go flying or play Airsoft (guess how I learnt that particular lesson). 

 

IMG_20200724_105815.jpg

*Edit* invest in some LiPo charging bags, I normally use them but have left them out of the photo.

 

LiPo fires, whilst very rare, can be devastating. I store my LiPos in a Bat-Safe LiPo box in a shed down the end of the garden, well away from any property of significant value. 

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I'd make sure you have a new charger before putting a new battery on that one. Judging by the fact the last 2 lights stay blue, i would say it's not charging up cell 2, and being that one of them is down to 3.3v which is pretty much as low as you want to safely go, I'd say that one is the one not charging 👍

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41 minutes ago, Predator EAT-14 said:

I'd make sure you have a new charger before putting a new battery on that one. Judging by the fact the last 2 lights stay blue, i would say it's not charging up cell 2, and being that one of them is down to 3.3v which is pretty much as low as you want to safely go, I'd say that one is the one not charging 👍

I'll see if the battery fixes it and if it does I'll get a new charger before fully charging the battery.

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After looking a bit into chargers, I noticed that most of them require to be plugged into a power supply, which I do not have or intend to buy. Do you guys have any recommendations for a relatively cheap mains charger?

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1 hour ago, Hashe8848 said:

After looking a bit into chargers, I noticed that most of them require to be plugged into a power supply, which I do not have or intend to buy. Do you guys have any recommendations for a relatively cheap mains charger?

 

I covered that in my last post:

 

22 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

I know a few guys with SkyRC S65s, less flashy (monochrome screen) but apparently solid performers. AC powered so no external supply needed, just plug into the wall socket and go. £32 on www.HobbyRc.co.uk (excellent UK company).

 

https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/skyrc-s65-65w-6a-ac-balance-charger

 

 

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On 17/10/2020 at 15:30, Speedbird_666 said:

 

If I'm righting that read, it doesn't come with any cables, just an XT60 port and a JST (?) balance port.  Unless it will charge solely through the balance port, will OP need an XT60 to (urgh) mini-Tamiya cable?

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1 hour ago, Rogerborg said:

 

If I'm righting that read, it doesn't come with any cables, just an XT60 port and a JST (?) balance port.  Unless it will charge solely through the balance port, will OP need an XT60 to (urgh) mini-Tamiya cable?

 

Yeh, good point. Something like this off can be had off eBay for less than £3 posted:

image.png.ecb7f2b850687b3505a1e3700921fca7.png

 

You would need to swap the pins over though to change the polarity. Stupid Airsoft standards.

 

Only takes a minute to do with a Bic Biro:

 

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50 minutes ago, Hashe8848 said:

Should I charge over the mini tamiya or the balance, or am I misunderstanding?

Most smart/intelligent chargers require you to plug in both the balance connector and the mini-tamiya connector.

 

If you look at the picture I posted earlier in the thread, you'll see the batteries are connected via the main power connector to the charger (I use deans connectors which are red as opposed the white/translucent mini-tamiya connectors) and the balance plug is connected to a break-out balance board that's also connected to the charger.

 

Check out this video (7:30 onwards shows the balance charging of a LiPo)

 

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1 hour ago, Hashe8848 said:

As a final note, the battery sticks out a bit from the back, is there any frequently used solution for this to secure them in the stock?

 

You'd typically fit a nunchuck / crane stock battery up the sides of the stock like this.

 

image.png.429564dc7ef3b327d8327843500fefa9.png

 

There's no reason that you can't put a battery in the stock tube though, it's just whatever fits best for you.

 

If the cells are too long, then they're too long, and lesson learned.  I don't have an M4 stock to hand but you'll generally want to stick to cells about 100mm long.  Best to measure your available space before buying - sorry, we should have said.

 

 

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