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Removing a Motor Casing?


Spartan873
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Alright, so I may have experienced the most UNLUCKY thing to ever happen whilst airsoft teching.

 

So I was replacing the spring in my HK417 NGRS. The strip down and spring replacement was uneventful until I got to reinstallation of the contact switch wires. One of the little screws that fasten the wire to the motor came loose and got pulled inside the motor casing by the strong magnets. Words can't describe how big an arse I felt when it happened... 😔

 

My first response was to use tweezers to remove it but that just pushed it further inside the casing.. does anyone know if it is possible to remove the motor casing from a TM samarium cobalt motor so I can remove the screw? 

 

Any help to prevent me having to shell out £100.00 plus for a new motor would be GREATLY appreciated!

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If it's like most motors there should be a couple of lugs on the casing that have been folded over or crimped which hold the brush plate in place. I have,in the past,used a small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully 'unfold' the lugs. Trouble is they may snap off in which case its goodnight nurse!

Regards 

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My Tech freind says to uncrimp the endbell from the casing and probably remove the pinion gear as well. 

 

If you just want to buy a new motor, AliExpress are doing some Samarium Cobalt motors for £30+ that look interesting which may do the job. My buddy will buy your knackered Sam motor for the same price ;)

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9 hours ago, Samurai said:

I could never unfold those lugs when I tried. I guess some special tool is required.

They're made of a composite that doesn't like being formed more than once, even if you'd prised them open, they'd likely snap when bending them closed again 😬

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Thanks for all the advice guys, much appreciated.

 

22 hours ago, Shamal said:

If it's like most motors there should be a couple of lugs on the casing that have been folded over or crimped which hold the brush plate in place. I have,in the past,used a small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully 'unfold' the lugs. Trouble is they may snap off in which case its goodnight nurse!

Regards 

 

I'll have a look to see if there are any lugs, thanks bud. The idea of snapping them is terrifying though.. 

 

20 hours ago, Asomodai said:

My Tech freind says to uncrimp the endbell from the casing and probably remove the pinion gear as well. 

 

If you just want to buy a new motor, AliExpress are doing some Samarium Cobalt motors for £30+ that look interesting which may do the job. My buddy will buy your knackered Sam motor for the same price ;)

 

That sounds a bit above my pay grade, might be a YouTube jobby there! Failing that, I'll have a look on AliExpress, thanks for the suggestion.

 

 

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£100 for a motor that still uses a crimped can lol, crazy.  ZCI use them as well and they are a pain in the ass.  In the past I've managed to pry them apart but closing them is very hard.  Last tabbed motor I ended up just leaving and epoxing the end bell back on.  Worked a treat.  Once you let the genie out, hard to get him back in 🙂

 

On 01/10/2020 at 21:25, Asomodai said:

If you just want to buy a new motor, AliExpress are doing some Samarium Cobalt motors for £30+ that look interesting which may do the job. My buddy will buy your knackered Sam motor for the same price ;)

 

@Asomodai you got a linky Rob?  Couldn't find them when I searched, gotta be a copy for sure but interesting to see

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26 minutes ago, ak2m4 said:

£100 for a motor that still uses a crimped can lol, crazy.  ZCI use them as well and they are a pain in the ass.  In the past I've managed to pry them apart but closing them is very hard.  Last tabbed motor I ended up just leaving and epoxing the end bell back on.  Worked a treat.  Once you let the genie out, hard to get him back in 🙂

 

 

@Asomodai you got a linky Rob?  Couldn't find them when I searched, gotta be a copy for sure but interesting to see

 

Sure! At a guess it's from the SHS/Rocket OEM.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001322715006.html

 

Whether it's a true Sam-Co motor is anyones guess. 

 

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Use a small robust screwdriver - like an old insulated electricians one...

image.jpeg.9f60b0ba68663dcc951d14d2a0bee491.jpeg

something like that, if it is a bit blunt sharpen with file for fine flat tip

pop motor in a vice, DON'T FUCK ABOUT, get a vice

(nearly gouged my hands thinking I'll be alright  -  DON'T BE A SILLY SOD, GET A VICE)

slight angle, strike the driver down, inward slightly and lever out

Fine tip to slip between tab & end bell and prise back

sometimes the brittle plastic end bell gets muller'd, but reckon I got a 8 or 9 out 10 success rate

 

A word of caution on Japanese motors, like Tokyo Marui, Systema etc...

Their motors are slightly different by design, the end bells are not fully interchangeable

there is some difference in end bell height or something & Systema use more chunky brushes

and a bespoke Systema O pinion with grub screw - really weird

Also - don't expect Japanese magnets to knock out of cans easily like cheapo China motors

Them Jap's really glue their magnets in well and when tried to knock ferrite TM 1000 & Systema ferrite magnets

Well they just chipped and shattered - yeah they ain't coming out like then China ones

 

close them back up with screwdriver and a couple of taps of small hammer

(after a while the tip blunts so sharpen or use another device/punch/screwdriver to close, or file the tip again)

 

What to do with a load of weak magnets ???

well for poops & giggles you can wrap them around a pipe that is SUPPOSED to reduce hard water scale build up....

 

images?q=tbn%3AANd9GcTyCwA1iT4cX9oD3iA-9mcG5T1nq6U95zW8JN2SC-F86GpzFOtFeng_cs3P380&usqp=CAc

 

Yeah - like the old car fuel saving bollox,

add a water tank in your boot to extract the Hydrogen & Oxygen to boost fuel economy

and fed into fuel line saving you thousands in fuel costs - developed by NASA

(Numpty Academic Scientific Arseholes)

 

Don't delay - buy today, our operators are standing by

you will be amazed at the savings (FUCK ALL), you will wonder how you got by without it before 

Your fiat Punto will be instantly transformed into a BMW M3....

 

naaaaahhh it's bollox - and never fucking worked despite all the claims they try to say

 

Some old bollox device magnetic water softener that BS science says the magnetic field stops deposits forming in water pipes

last time I looked into it it was sceptical if it really helped at all so the science says

 

But what else you gonna do with all them crappy curved sets of ferrite magnets

 

not sure if I'd use them on actual drinking water pipes but have chucked one on a cloakroom basin a while back

didn't make my car go any faster, but my toilet is much cleaner thanks to the new improved H20 steam cleaner

 

When the guy says: one of my favourites, I love cleaning the toilet with my H20

YEAH - fuck me m8, you need to get a life

(ergh - says the bloke waffling about pipe magnets & other dumb shit)

 

TLDR - just buy a £30 replacement and quit being a sad sod like moi, messing about with crap that usually ain't worth it

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56 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

 

TLDR - just buy a £30 replacement and quit being a sad sod like moi, messing about with crap that usually ain't worth it

Amen, life's too short & fingertips too fragile lol

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Firstly, you lot are all legends and gentlemen for the assist, appreciated. 🍻

 

Apart from the china jobby, are there any reputable companies that have made an aftermarket motor designed for NGRS? Sounds as though it is all pointing towards a replacement motor #sad face.  I think it would probably be best to invest in a new one then mess about with the old one. If it turns out I can fix the old one, sweet. If not, no real loss.

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7 minutes ago, HardB0iled87 said:

Firstly, you lot are all legends and gentlemen for the assist, appreciated. 🍻

 

Apart from the china jobby, are there any reputable companies that have made an aftermarket motor designed for NGRS? Sounds as though it is all pointing towards a replacement motor #sad face.  I think it would probably be best to invest in a new one then mess about with the old one. If it turns out I can fix the old one, sweet. If not, no real loss.

 

I don't think it has to be specific to NGRS. Anything will do, but if you want a Sam-Co motor there are very few options beyond the TM one and the China clone.

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In that case, I don't think I would need to be so specific with the SamCo motor then so long as it does the job reliably. I've read a few other bits about motors and I've seen a few recommendations for the Action Army Infinity series motors - know anything about those? Would it be plug-and-plug or is there a lot of faffing around involved?

 

P.S. apologies for the numpty questions, this is my first foray into teching. Needs must and all that, given the current climate.

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