strykerles Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Recently purchased an G&G RK-74-E stock Motor seemed a bit rickety so I changed it for a 22k infinity I had spare fired fine on semi and fine on auto when I switched from auto back to semi it started firing in 2 round burst in both modes any ideas?? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted June 16, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 16, 2020 2 round burst on semi is normally a symptom of going too fast. possibly it's got itself stuck on semi only now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 i'll try another 18k motor I have and get back to you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skara Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Could also be the mosfet. They have AB by default but they're known for busting themselves into oblivion by just existing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted June 17, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 17, 2020 25 minutes ago, Skara said: Could also be the mosfet. They have AB by default but they're known for busting themselves into oblivion by just existing. hmm, ab on a 22k doesn't seem like it should double fire, if anything i'd be more worried about the opposite of it locking up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 looks like the gearbox has had an attack, it's firing a single shot then a double now think it may have had it trying to find a v3 gearbox is a pain too lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted June 19, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 19, 2020 if everything's cycling fine then it's not too massive an issue. the selector plate setup in an ak is a ridiculous rube golberg affair so it's not surprising they can have issues. i'd pull the box apart and have a look at the cutoff lever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 20, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 20, 2020 Bit confused here.... It "sounds" like a possible COL but gun is new-ish or recently purchased (but then 2 round burst on auto sounds odd) Ahhh but it is an ETU fuck pig so that would explain a burst on auto (but that would be 3rnd or potential 5rnd burst option on ETU2 units) On 16/06/2020 at 18:13, strykerles said: Recently purchased an G&G RK-74-E stock Motor seemed a bit rickety so I changed it for a 22k infinity I had spare fired fine on semi and fine on auto when I switched from auto back to semi it started firing in 2 round burst in both modes any ideas?? thanks Now we know the common AK selector issue going from semi/auto/semi etc... But this TWO round burst is a bit odd - should be 3 (and/or 5 round burst) on ETU I would have thought but still get single shot semi & then 3 (or 5 option on blue etu2) or just auto on ergh auto First of all - what battery are you using ETU's can/do play up on 7.4v so best to run on 9.6v or 11.1v, (11.1v is best perhaps) (normally, iffy etu's simply refuse to work on lower 7.4v, but wondering if lower volts causing an issue) Secondly - RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual) for info about setting/changing the burst mode COULD be an iffy ETU - the main unit near battery, as they are made from Dairy Lea Turn off/disable the burst mode (RTFM) and start again so semi & auto operates correctly In that sort of gun, I would have just used 11.1v with 18k motor to get you near say 20rps and with the 22k you should be on or just a whisker over 20rps It appears to be crane stock AK so assume the battery goes under the hood/dust cover which this battery MIGHT be about your limit - but YOU need to check it will fit (inc wires) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?queryID=c2ca5915ed20ee36fc43e6fc49de517d&objectID=31045&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products RTFM, check your battery is OK, and give us a bit more info... it might be a moody selector, but the etu causes more issues in some guns than it is supposed to solve or if gun is still in warranty contact retailer (hmm good luck with that) but I'm a little confused with 2rnd burst in both modes so if possible read manual, turn off burst etc... and update us with a bit more info perhaps strykerles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 The gun isn't new, was someone's backup Came with a 11.1 1450mah lipo Opened up the box and it looks as though it needs a clean lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 Put back together and it fired a few times in 2 round burst and then stopped, changed battery, motor etc and nothing, dead Etu maybe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skara Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 8 minutes ago, strykerles said: Etu maybe? Most likely. They're shit. The trigger board is fine but the fcu unit is abysmal. Sitting Duck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 20, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 20, 2020 Yup ETU 1 is red and the ETU unit is fucking wanked wanked wanked Had a FFR2 A2, changed motor and it blew the ETU - WTF ??? Ripped it all out, old school trigger switch, 13:1 etc... So me personally that is what I would do or there is the option of Perun unit but it ain't ultra cheap.... https://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/g-g-etu-upgrade-kit-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Yeah it is very tricky to install (sarcasm) but supposed to work properly http://perunairsoft.pl/products/gg-etu-upgrade-kit/ but me personally I'd rip it all out and go back to traditional old school trigger coz G&G will still be a bit Dairy Lea, Perun won't leave you much change out of say £60 with shipping and for that price, I could spend on 13:1, 25~30k motor, steel rack piston & cheap basic or diy (non burst bollox) mosfet (you got 22k motor so forget the 25/30k motor, maybe 16:1 gears, 13:1's might be a bit too quick unless you short stroke on 11.1v a couple of bushings under spur & maybe bevel, basic mosfet, normal switch, steel rack piston (shs blue perhaps & cyma piston head or something that provides good seal, run on 11.1v sorted) Well that is likely what I'd do but to each their own - but fuck G&G's ETU bollox imho PS - looking at your pic, you might need a new COL, as it looks a bit different to reg v3 COL (the lug that pops the reg trigger trolley looks to be set back to activate the micro switch on ETU trigger board) see that wedge bit on right of arm, looks different to the G&G one in your ETU box so a steel SHS COL might be needed to go old school, I noticed when I checked your pic - just saying Before you do owt, test the board is completely dead by just having motor out of box change fuse, but likely it is fucked mine went a bit wanky, kept blowing fuses with motor out of box and got hot yeah fuck that shitty unit right off I decided Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skara Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 I have the upgrade kit on my ARP and it's great.. Haven't really played with the settings, I have AB on and occasionally turn on binary trigger, which puts a big fat smile on my face when I'm playing cqb.. It's one of those overlooked bits that can greatly improve your gun without ripping everything apart. Sitting Duck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 20, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 20, 2020 1 minute ago, Skara said: I have the upgrade kit on my ARP and it's great.. Haven't really played with the settings, I have AB on and occasionally turn on binary trigger, which puts a big fat smile on my face when I'm playing cqb.. It's one of those overlooked bits that can greatly improve your gun without ripping everything apart. Pity G&G don't use them instead of Dairy Lea ETU units, especially on their higher price guns nice to know it works well, but wish they was cheaper, even £50 inc shipping is a bit much I'm being a bit miffed, but mainly coz the G&G unit is so shit (some people have been lucky and works fine still even on 7.4v, but there are a lot of issues with ETU's) Paying a bit above other similar guns, to then have to be faced with replacing something that is so defective spending around £50 or so, or at least a tenner converting it back to basic trigger plus time/cost is a wank G&G - lovely looking guns, but jeez some of their ideas & innovations have made matters worse not more reliable G&G R&D dept: ETU design & testing... The most annoying thing is that you can't just plug a basic mosfet in due to the 4 thin wire lead, one is power, then a signal to each of 3 switches (power, trigger, col switch & slector switch at back of trigger unit) so the fucking thing is only for the ETU & can't drop a basic mosfet or warfet or owt in there so you are faced with another Dairy Lea G&G ETU mosfet, luckily the Perun option but still not cheap or rip the whole lot out and start again old school real PITA these fancy bespoke units - especially with G&G's reliability (ultra sarcasm) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 think i'll replace the whole unit then thanks for all the help do you guys know any complete replacement boxes that aint stupidly expensive? not mega confident in my skills to work on gearboxes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 20, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 20, 2020 21 minutes ago, strykerles said: think i'll replace the whole unit then thanks for all the help do you guys know any complete replacement boxes that aint stupidly expensive? not mega confident in my skills to work on gearboxes TBH you got an option to replace the ETU mosfet unit G&G £36 aprox if you can find one or perun £50 inc ship from bravo/bullseye country sport in NI (good seller) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Airsoft-Upgrade-Mosfet-Kit-For-G-G-ETU-System-AB-LiPo-Ready-Burst-bbs/133377231128?hash=item1f0de70918:g:vv0AAOSwhQhehetA OR contact Luke/Negative Airsoft perhaps You could buy a V3 box, hopefully an AK with AK nozzle, trigger, selector and hope it fits OK some v3's don't always simply slide into all other guns as is, at times a bit of modding required (some will gladly take a std Cyma v3 & others will take a JG one but might need modding or vice versa) those are two very common/cheap v3's out there, but there "might" be some minor fitting niggles to overcome hence if you got a sound box that is compatible - stick with that and have it rebuilt (Luke or some other respected tech) They can overhaul it and no doubt if old it is need of service and doubt if compression/seals are that great Chuck in a basic mosfet, maybe the tiny perun https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Micro-Airsoft-Mosfet/164224757298?epid=25036277200&hash=item263c8eee32:g:zngAAOSwP7ZdHKsv So you can run on 11.1v, new col, trigger switch & some other bits n bobs give it the once over and getting firing all dandy yes labour & shipping issue, but atm you got a £300 when new gun that is wanked so spending a bit of money WISELY is not such a bad thing you can go nutz or Luke will advise you on the best cost effective course of action according to your budget Or you can attempt to have a go yourself if you feel up to it, but will require some rewiring/soldering or clean it up, slap some grease in there & buy the perun etu those are the 3 options I would consider (than buy a box that shoots too hot on an imported cyma v3 box & hope it fits first time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 22, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 22, 2020 On 20/06/2020 at 11:37, Skara said: I have the upgrade kit on my ARP and it's great.. Haven't really played with the settings, I have AB on and occasionally turn on binary trigger, which puts a big fat smile on my face when I'm playing cqb.. It's one of those overlooked bits that can greatly improve your gun without ripping everything apart. Don't know if you tried this but wonder if it is the reset to default option or if it is a "Whoa fuck me - what ya doing bro" warning... But the Perun ETU plays Michael Jackson - Smooth Criminal (Eddie are you OK) if you fuck about with it... WTF ??? strykerles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skara Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Yeah I knew about it I guess it's just a little easter egg manufacturers put into their FCUs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 In the end I thought "f*k it" and gutted the gearbox replaced the piston, piston head, cylinder, trigger box, tappet plate and reshimmed changed out the mosfet for the perun version out of the gun it seems quite snappy i'll put it back together and see what we get thanks for all the help @Sitting Duck @Skara Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 think I need to reshim the box again as it got a little grindy also the nozzle doesn't always come back after firing on semi and the selector doesn't seem to lock into safe properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skara Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 F Shimming takes some time, as for the selector, no clue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 26, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 26, 2020 4 minutes ago, strykerles said: think I need to reshim the box again as it got a little grindy also the nozzle doesn't always come back after firing on semi and the selector doesn't seem to lock into safe properly shimming is a pita that you get better at the more you do it (hopefully) there's loads of tutorials how to do it & some good/bad a bit loose is better than bit tight yes you kinda start with bevel to pinion but also attention to how the sector is shimmed (roughly half/half spaced but attention it operates but no rubbing on COL or too high sector cam rubs on box casing) plus attention to how the spur shims to both sector (swirl pattern if too close) and attention to ensure plenty of bevel's 10 teeth mesh to spur etc... (if bevel shimmed high & spur really low, little of 10 teeth mesh and stuff flies off or crunches under stress or mild lock up so shimming is all about the spacing of gears/drivechain and how all the components engage as close to perfection as possible (not always very easy to achieve) IF you was on bushings I'd say a ROUGH BALL PARK... Bevel - 0.2mm shim on top, no biggy about underneath really not a massive biggy on JUST this gear underneath coz motor pinion ensures it ain't going far (if you got a small shim left at end then take up some of slack if you wish to) Spur/Step gear 0.2mm UNDERNEATH (whatever is required on top to take up most of slack) Sector gear 0.25mm to 0.3mm roughly so it sits a whisker higher than spur (hopefully avoiding swirls from gears touching in rotation) whatever on top to take up slack, should sit about half way spaced in box for sector gear as you got bearings it is likely you might have a bit more lateral play than on bushings so add 0.05 to 0.10mm to these ref points THE ABOVE IS ONLY A VERY ROUGH STARTING POINT, you have to adjust shit accordingly as each box & gears/build vary loads check motor height with bevel in top half of box on v3's a bit of shrill can be reduced by loosening the motor cage and slightly shifting it, tilting the motor angle slightly to mesh smoother nozzle not returning - uhmm it doesn't always return 100% anyway in most instances the nozzle begins to retract before the piston starts to retract & often the gun's cycle is slowed/stopped by piston retraction or rather the tension on spring building and slowing the motor which means theif nozzle often is at least partial retracted or even starting to release if running quick (and on guns with plenty pre-cock the nozzle has returned already in preparation of firing/piston releasing) so this nozzle fretting is not a big issue in "most" new tech concerns obviously if it isn't operating or jamming then that is another issue but nozzle position is not (usually) a big concern select linkage and stuff - yeah they are a bit of wank safety is that triangle tab on gearbox that jams the 2 part trigger the linkage is a git to get correct if the rear teeth are not aligned correctly (and stay in place as you try to drop the whole thing back in receiver) also clean & lightly grease and parts of selector/linkage checking they glide as smooth as silk if any burrs, smooth them out and ensure it all glides/operates smooth as silk stiff operation on selector mechanism shit will just mean more wear in linkage/selector components sooner massive tip - take photo's on your phone - LOTS OF PHOTO's then you will see how shit goes back together in particular if a certain spring or component goes face down or face up eg: a trigger trolley spring (you don't have one on etu) on reg setup v2 especially can make a difference which way round the body of spring is placed or its orientation (in the way the spring sits to clear the groove in the underside of tappet plate etc...) on selector mechanism at rear - mark it with a pencil to ensure the marks re-align on assembly or other shit like that - just a couple of examples you takea pic or three will greatly assist in reassembly strykerles 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strykerles Posted June 28, 2020 Author Share Posted June 28, 2020 after the 5th attempt i believe I now have the shimming right only problem now seems to be with the fire selector, sometimes it won't lock properly into safe and will click into auto when i pull the trigger if i remove the dust cover it then allows the lever to go a bit higher and it's fine sometimes too if I go from safe to auto it fires fine, then I go to semi and fire it's fine but then i go back to auto and it only fires in semi I'm beginning to consider throwing this gun down the garden 😭 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted June 28, 2020 Supporters Share Posted June 28, 2020 Linkage issue, likely one tooth out or wear On a reg V3 there is the tab that locks the trigger solid The iffy semi/auto is a common problem on AK's Where linkage is worn or not quite correctly located (It "could" be one tooth out on rear linkage Or something is binding when box is refitted into receiver impeding its operation) Investigate further, likely something stupid out of whack on reassembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will-CS Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Just had this 'burst fire' issues on my G&G RK74-E. The issue was the cut off leaver was in the incorrect position when I put the gearbox back together. When I made the adjustment both single and auto worked without any other work. Just wanted to put there here in case anyone else has the same issue in the future! Rogerborg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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