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Double Bell By-813s - Hk416a5 Almost


mightyjebus
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It is an updated D-Boys 416 or rather 614 or BI-8001 or 801

(or other variation of codes/styles)

 

They chucked in the outer extension barrel on the 614 but had a shorter barrel on mine

My 416/614 had a horrid clear plastic hop unit I think, that never really held its setting and mediocre at best

& gearbox was a 7mm bearing reinforced V2, meaning it needing a bit of modding to fit 13:1's

DBoys Version 2 (V2) Full Metal Gearbox for M4 / M16 Airsoft AEGs

mine were front wired with a PEQ box, that got rewired to rear

Gun is pretty weighty as it is

 

Aside from a few meh bits n bobs it is a pretty decent cheap 416 without trades

cheaper than the WE 888 416, though the D-Boy does need a few tweaks where some cost corners were cut

(fine if you don't mind a bit of DIY, maybe not for others who are not wanting to gut their new peew peew)

 

Nice to see a better hop unit and longer barrel on this model

Might be a 8mm box by now, think D-Boys have just used/sold/changed the name & revised their 614 a bit

Nice budget 416's, needs a tweak but overall I'm pleased with my 416/614's for what I paid for them

 

NB: sorry to crash thread, would love to see if the box has been updated when you get a chance

nice purchase & review btw

(mods - please delete this post as it would likely spoil an excellent review of new 416)

 

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feel free to post what you want on this thread. the more info the better.

 

I cranked the gearbox open after I spent around 2 hours trying to figure out how to get it out of the receiver. The hold up was removing the selector levers. Normally you have allen bolts holding the selectors to the side of the gearbox and on this model this is the same however there are fake plates over the top of the allen bolt that have to be prised off to allow you to unscrew the allen bolt and remove both selectors. It took me ages to figure that out since there are no manuals available.

 

The motor is an unbranded one and spins easily by hand so this rules out anything fancy. It does the job well in the stock setup and looks to be well made.

motor_zpsgi1ey0vy.jpg

 

The gearbox outer shell looks to be well cast and because it has a quick change spring it comes apart easily unlike the older generation of V2 gearboxes which had a tendency to thown parts far and wide when you separated the 2 halves.

gearbox%20shell_zps0xhmdtca.jpg

 

Inside the gearbox everything looks to be decent quality. The compression is good, there is a selector/delayer chip already installed and the piston has the first tooth removed. Shimming seems fine, grease isn't overly done and my only gripe is the anti reversal latch is loose in it's hole making it fall over when you are trying to put the gearbox halves back together.

gearbox%20internals_zpsdtck8vfi.jpg

 

The selector plate on the left hand side is metal and I think it has 7mm bearings but I need to get my calipers and double check.

 

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I spent a bit of time earlier making the DB 416A5 look more like the real thing.

painted_zpspaanszy6.jpg

 

I painted the stock pipe, trigger guard and fire selectors 

trigger%20guard_zpsiisuhwr0.jpg

 

I sprayed the fake bolt cover gun metal.

fake%20bolt%20cover_zpso7zd4jzr.jpg

 

I removed the outer barrel extension and added a 1 inch extension and added the original flash hider. I cut down the inner barrel so that it fits inside the new outer barrel size. The Brown paint looks lighter in the photos than with the Mk1 eyeball.

 

Next up will be fitting the Gate Aster and I'll get some photos of the gearbox internals as I go along.

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Looks great with the Tan Elcan Spectre - does it have the handle that flips from 1x - 4x or is it fixed 4x ?

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Just now, Zarrin said:

Looks great with the Tan Elcan Spectre - does it have the handle that flips from 1x - 4x or is it fixed 4x ?

yup..its the 1 or 4 mag version

 

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3 minutes ago, mightyjebus said:

yup..its the 1 or 4 mag version

 

Nice, such a cool optic - I have a Valken or Vortex clone type thing which dials between 1-4x (so not quite as fast switching on the go as your spectre) but what I find is that the optics on a 1-4x module in 1x mode are so much clearer than your average RDS or Holo... such a versatile solution.

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I swapped the pistol grip for a VFC 416 pistol grip and I can confirm that it fits and the motor has no issues turning over the gearbox. I've swapped back to the DB pistol grip as I prefer it.

vfc%20grip1_zpsjka5lupf.jpg

vfc%20grip_zpseorg3fsh.jpg

 

I've now fitted a Gate Aster to mine and it wasn't painless but it's now fitted and working. The Aster has a hole in the centre that is used to secure to the gearbox using a screw with insulating washer. The gearbox shell has a raised post and the original trigger contacts are secured to the gearbox shell with a screw using this post. The Aster hole doesn't fit over this post. You have 2 choices, 1 is to remove the post and 2 is to enlarge the hole on the Aster. I went for option 2 and increased the hole size to 4.5mm. Drilling a bigger hole in an Aster is going to invalid the warranty so don't do this unless you are brave or stupid.  

 

The gearbox shell has some extra gears on the outside, similar to a Dboys PDW, and you need to correctly align them when rebuilding the gearbox to make sure the Ambi selectors work.

gearbox%20setup%20left_zpsalfngvvy.jpg

gearbox%20setup%20right_zpsf1rer34t.jpg

 

When re-assembling the right hand side selector it should look like this:

right%20selector%20removed_zpsevx1vcdc.j

right%20selector_zpsdcrzrny8.jpg

 

The left hand side should look like this:

left%20selector%20removed_zpsoewuf2by.jp

left%20selector_zpsff4iev10.jpg

 

Inside the gearbox you will find steel gears, 8mm bearings, vented cylinder, plastic toothed piston and the rest is all standard V2 stuff. Everything is an OK standard so I'm not going to change anything until it breaks but being a V2 you can go crazy with upgrades if you want.

bearings_zpsy9kxei5x.jpg

 

I mentioned earlier that the Magazine release screwed into the button but this was wrong. It actually uses a small grub screw to hole the button to the post. It's the first time I've seen this design and it seems to be durable.

mag%20catch_zps5tpsyoxt.jpg

 

So that's the review for the Double Bell BY-813S. Here's a comparison of what I started with to how it looks now.

hk416a5a_zpsp1qu5rps.jpg

finished%20left_zpsxzwefte3.jpg

hk416a5_zpsacfwzq3x.jpg

finished%20right_zpsza5u7y0g.jpg

 

The only thing more I will do is fit an enchanced charging handle latch and fit a VFC A5 gas block when it turns up.

 

My conclusion is that this is a good budget AEG which works fine without modification however it's easy to upgrade and being a standard V2 gearbox you will find loads of parts available to make it a very good AEG. It's a sub £200 AEG and is the same standard as a CYMA, DBOYS or any of the other budget AEG range. If you are after a HK416A5 replica then this isn't a exact match but it's cheap enough that you can buy the parts needed to make it look a lot closer without breaking the bank.

This is the second Bell replica I have and both work fine so I'm  now happy to go and buy another if a model appears that I want and I know that with a few upgrades it will preform very well.

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While waiting for the VFC gas block to tuen up I decided to have a go at doing the trade marks.

trades%20added_zps1bbgdeii.jpg

 

trades_zpsx1dt5g92.jpg

 

I also added a end plate sling point.

end%20plate%20sling_zpsesik3gtq.jpg

 

Trades were cut on a vinyl cutter and then spray painted. Once almost dry the vinyl is pulled off to leave the trademarks. The the whole thing is given a coat of matt varnish to stop them wearing off.

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Nicely done, did you add pieces of roofing felt to the Pmag indentations :lol: ? Looks good.

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1 hour ago, Zarrin said:

Nicely done, did you add pieces of roofing felt to the Pmag indentations :lol: ? Looks good.

naa they are Pmag grips. Not seen them on sale for a bit but they do add extra grip when removing the mag.

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2 hours ago, mightyjebus said:

naa they are Pmag grips. Not seen them on sale for a bit but they do add extra grip when removing the mag.

 

looks like they are probably quite effective and the two tone black on tan looks good too.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Very nice review. I'm kind of on the fence about picking one of these up. I recently finished my AEG build and was looking for something cheap to turn into an HPA platform. I've always had a soft spot for the HK416 but getting the VFC is simply too expensive if I'm going to gut the thing. At first I was looking at the Specna Arms sa-h02 but I can't find them anywhere and again the newer version, the sa-h20 is too much because of the Gate Aster. Long story short I'm only looking for good quality externals. 

 

Would you recommend the Double Bell HK style replicas and would it be worth it to upgrade the hopup chamber as well as the inner barrel (shorter version)? 

 

I kind of like the fact that the DB ones don't have 'trades' like the SA one so I can have them laser engraved locally. 

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These externals are the same quality as the Dboys AEGs. I think the material, fit and finish is good and the hop up and inner barrel do the job but its always an option to upgrade especially if you want to increase the range.

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  • 8 months later...

Hey! What tan paint did you use for the buffer tube and Selectors 

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  • 10 months later...

Can you be a bit more specific about which bit you are trying to remove ? a silencer would generally just replace the flash hider. 

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4 minutes ago, Nick G said:

Can you be a bit more specific about which bit you are trying to remove ? a silencer would generally just replace the flash hider. 

The part in the red rectangle in the picture I've posted. I thought the flash hider is only the small part in front of it
I want to to put the silencer on the thread that sticks right after the rail

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7 minutes ago, Naster said:

The part in the red rectangle in the picture I've posted. I thought the flash hider is only the small part in front of it
I want to to put the silencer on the thread that sticks right after the rail

that should just unscrew , sometimes they can be very tight, and remember it'll be a ccw thread so unscrews the oposite way to a 'normal' thread . You going to run the silencer hard against the rail ? that'lllook very cool !

if you want to take the birdcage off of that extension there is usually a grub screw under the rear of it that needs releasing

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3 minutes ago, Nick G said:

that should just unscrew , sometimes they can be very tight, and remember it'll be a ccw thread so unscrews the oposite way to a 'normal' thread . You going to run the silencer hard against the rail ? that'lllook very cool !

if you want to take the birdcage off of that extension there is usually a grub screw under the rear of it that needs releasing

Yes, it is CCW thread. I've tried to unscrew it using pliers, but didn't move it at all.

and yeah- the flash hider has this tiny screw on the rear that releases it before you are able to unscrew it, but I've didn't noticed anything on the big part behind it that I need to remove in order to put the suppressor on the outer barrel- green rectangle on this picture:

gas block.jpg

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That is tight then. I've never had a barrel extension that had a grub screw so I doubt there will be one. You might try some heat, ended up dunking one of mine in a mug of boiling water to get it to shift . There is also a verey very slight chance it is a 'normal' thread but I'd be incredibly surprised they are quite unusual in airsoft. I'd go with heat and see if that helps, might have been thread locked.

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I just checked and it's a -14mm thread. mine was hand tight but the QC from China probably means your one has threadlock applied unlike mine. Heat is probably the only way to get it off unless you have a strap wrench.

one other option if you don't want the barrel extension is to remove the inner barrel and drill a hole through the outer barrel and stick a screwdriver through the hole and twist. 

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