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What have you made?


AK47frizzle
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2 hours ago, Chev Chelios said:

Forgive my ignorance but did they actually heat and extrude the ally or just said print instead of machine? Thanks. 

 

Metal 3d printin normally works by adding a thin layer of metal powder then using a laser to melt it then adding another layer and so on and so on and then digging the finished pieces out of the powder. There are some direct extrusion metal machines but they tend to be less detailed. 

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Upper reciever basically done. will be starting on the lower soon. The v3 gearbox fits perfectly though I will need a little extension for the hop up 3d printed to make it work with m4 mags. 

IMG_6483.thumb.JPG.8476a36d33b3c9b3e8c17dd10cd6a17f.JPG

IMG_6484.thumb.JPG.fd1994115ba0e002886c7a926e783d39.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm modding the repro mawl so the laser works. For some reason even though it has a working and wired up Red Laser, no combination of buttons can get it running.

 

uIXgdNq.jpg

 

What you need to look at are the blue and yellow wires coming from the laser, swap the yellow with the one on the connector and the blue with the grey wire from the IR. You don't need to rewire the rest up just cover it with tape or heatshrink. 

 

Obviously doing this will disable the IR laser, but the red laser and torch work fine.

 

There's also no working 2.5mm or 3.5mm connector on the back of the unit, but there is room for one, so I've bought some female 2.5mm jack connectors and i'm going to wire it up so any button plugged into it will toggle the laser on/off.

 

rJec28p.jpg

 

To turn the laser on, you bridge these two connections here. Should be a simple job of drilling a hole for the connector and wiring it to those points.

 

Here's a video of the laser working before screwing it back together:

 

Edit: Ignore the first part of this post, there was no reason to mod the wires I'm a dummy.

However I got the switch done:

 

 

Edited by paradoxum
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Started a new job working with resin printers and CNC mills and now I want my own. The quality of resin prints are incredible, they almost don't look printed

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3 minutes ago, PopRocket123 said:

Started a new job working with resin printers and CNC mills and now I want my own. The quality of resin prints are incredible, they almost don't look printed

 

My brother in law has a resin printer. Is nice.

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1 hour ago, PopRocket123 said:

Started a new job working with resin printers and CNC mills and now I want my own. The quality of resin prints are incredible, they almost don't look printed

 

Resin is nice from what I've seen,  heard it is a lot more brittle though? 

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40 minutes ago, ak2m4 said:

 

 

Resin is nice from what I've seen,  heard it is a lot more brittle though? 

you can get flexi-resins now and I use them when printing parts that need to take a bit of abuse. I usually add it (20% ish) to the normal resin to get a semi flexible print.

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1 hour ago, mightyjebus said:

you can get flexi-resins now and I use them when printing parts that need to take a bit of abuse. I usually add it (20% ish) to the normal resin to get a semi flexible print.

That's pretty cool. I'll try to remember that probably not something to try with a company printer though lol

We do have flexible resin but it's translucent so I don't know how well it'd mix. 

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Figured guys here would know what best tool / bit to use here.

 

I'm going to dremel the crap out of my ACR stock tomorrow so I can fit an 11.1v lipo in there.

I checked and it will fit the hole just needs to be widened.

 

Plan is to take the cheek rest off and extension bit, and then, I'm not really sure.

 

1h8BfQb.jpg

 

You guys have any ideas what the best way would be to cut out all that plastic?

 

I've got a drill and dremel.

 

Edit: Just found this via google;

8OZ4KzGhwAc19nfdevIHlJWr0YtoDfJ3RlEXVtY3

 

Looks a lot easier to do. 

Edited by paradoxum
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It’s a bit of a stretch to say I made them. Maybe I’m the Project Manager?

 

Rhesus Customs designed them, @RidiculousReed machined them (CNC alluminium), Supreme Coatings https://www.instagram.com/supreme_coating/ Cerakoted them.

 

Gen2 trigger for KWA Vector & M-LOK side rails for both KWA & Krytac Vectors

 

F31A9D2D-C0C9-4718-8A26-2E1E4CF31C66.thumb.jpeg.0bd0bca1a004e3157ab2757b6ade2e5e.jpeg

 

pre-Cerakote 

 

 

 

 

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51E4B71B-81AF-4A53-9FB4-98687D51E34F.jpeg

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I made a very light piston:

 

 

16.2g with the head.

 

 

SHS 14 Tooth Piston (Half Cut Second Tooth) (Swissed) (-6 Teeth)

Gearparts POM Piston Head

Edited by paradoxum
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Some progress on MAWL. 

 

 

 

Going to finish it now and post final result.

 

Edit: finished.

 

Edited by paradoxum
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52 minutes ago, #blackadder said:

Kydex pouch inserts for Scorpion EVO mags . Fitted into M4 chest rig . It took one and a half A4 sheets .

 

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Funnily enough I’m just waiting on the kydex to arrive to make some MP5 and M4 inserts !

out of curiosity what mil kydex did you use ? I usually use 3mm my self .

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I left the first test print of the short mags for my SCAR on overnight. Cant wait to see how it came out

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Came in this morning to check my prints. The outer is great, the base friction fits perfectly to the sleeve and the dimensions are spot on. Internals are a different story one warped when curing and even without the warp they're too tight and cracked the sleeve when I tried to test the fit. Bugger. This is what tests are for though so I'll try again tomorrow with a different technique and slightly looser tolerances

IMG_20211020_151932.jpg

IMG_20211020_130039.jpg

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They brought out a new metal repro MAWL with switch sockets:

mawl_04.jpg.08030229770d879d5094ae33fe9ebf9a.jpg

 

But hey I got my mod working:

 

 

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