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G&G tr16 mbr 556wh DMR build recommended upgrades.


Goodhew11
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Hi there people...

I have a G&G TR16 MBR 556WH and I am looking at doing some upgrades to make it a DMR.
It already has a Prometheus 6.03mm barrel.

I have spoken to someone with a 556WH who has a DMR setup running at 435 fps.
This is his set up:

SHS full cylinder
SHS 14 tooth piston

SHS double O-ring Piston head 
Maxx Pro hop-up unit
Pink 75 maple leaf bucking
Namazu Firefly hard Nub.

M140 spring.

I am looking to go up to 480/490 FPS as my field DMR limit is 500fps.

Would this setup work well with a PDI 260% spring?

I would love your constructive criticism on these parts and If you know that something would work better then please point me in the right direction.

Thank you
 

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I have spoken to someone with a 556WH who has a DMR setup running at 435 fps.
This is his set up:

SHS full cylinder
SHS 14 tooth piston

SHS double O-ring Piston head 
Maxx Pro hop-up unit
Pink 75 maple leaf bucking
Namazu Firefly hard Nub.

M140 spring.

 

Cylinder, piston, and piston head are not needed. 

 

Maxx hop unit is a good choice. 

 

75° is far too hard, better off with a 60° and replace more often. 

 

435fps is seems very low on a 140 spring. I’ve got a 120 in mine and I’m at 410fps 

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6 minutes ago, E21A said:

 

 

Cylinder, piston, and piston head are not needed. 

 

Maxx hop unit is a good choice. 

 

75° is far too hard, better off with a 60° and replace more often. 

 

435fps is seems very low on a 140 spring. I’ve got a 120 in mine and I’m at 410fps 



Really, well that saves me a few ££ on parts.

But I thought the maple leaf 60 was rated for 296-396 ??
If i am looking to get 480/490fps with a PDI 260% spring then surely I would need the 75 bucking which is rated for 429 - 495 ??

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Assuming you’re in the U.K. then 75 will be far to hard for the winter. 

 

The hardness is more for longevity as far as I’m aware (sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong) 

 

I use a 60 in my sniper (VSR/GBB type admittedly) and it’s just fine. Had maybe 3-4K shots through it so far. 

 

Regarding the not needed parts, the G2 gearbox has all of those already. 

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3 minutes ago, E21A said:

Assuming you’re in the U.K. then 75 will be far to hard for the winter. 

 

The hardness is more for longevity as far as I’m aware (sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong) 

 

I use a 60 in my sniper (VSR/GBB type admittedly) and it’s just fine. Had maybe 3-4K shots through it so far. 

 

Regarding the not needed parts, the G2 gearbox has all of those already. 

 

Ahh fair enough. Yes I'm in the UK. 

 

So which nub would you recommend to go alongside the maple 60 bucking? 

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If you role is DMR, shots are ranged, Rhop it.

PDI Whold or Straight Prommy bucking.

Thats where your money should go.

 

As above the original cylinder parts should be fine, what's your barrel length?

 

Match the cylinder volume for max energy.

Put a Sorbo pad in to reduce stress and correct AOE.

The 2 above will really help take the big spring stresses out.

 

Make sure all the air seals are 100%.

Give the piston O ring a stretch, teflon the cylinder head.

 

Use a really high discharge LiPo to give the motor the amps it needs to pull those stiff spring semi auto shots :)

 

See how the motor performs, you may be better served with another.

 

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Well as I am new to teching with airsoft (years experience with air rifles, so some transferable skills) I am going to try flat hop before I move on to R-Hop.

The motor is a G2 25k so should be fine for semi auto. The o-rings are fine and the cylinder has good compression. 
Once I have upgraded the hop up parts then I will hand it in to a shop to have a compression test on it.

I was looking in to getting a sorbo pad for it, Do you have a link ? Will check good old you tube for how to install.

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36 minutes ago, E21A said:

 

 

No. Bodge and not needed if the o rings are in good condition. 

 

Not a bodge, agreed if the air seal is fine it is not needed obviously, however a lot of OE parts O ring to cylinder tolerances are a little slack. ;)

 

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10 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

 

Not a bodge, agreed if the air seal is fine it is not needed obviously, however a lot of OE parts O ring to cylinder tolerances are a little slack. ;)

 

 

Its always a bodge. If the tolerances are slack then get a better cylinder head or slightly fatter o ring and do the job properly 

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