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AEG hop up


Garth
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Hi, I’m looking at upgrading my whole hop up set up. I currently have a g&g gr16 hop up chamber with the gears mounted on the side(as you can probably tell, I don’t have a scooby on the technical terms) I’m wanting to upgrade it to increase range and consistency. I don’t know if I have to buy a hop up with the gears on the side or can I change it so the gear to change the hop up is on the rear? The gun I’m currently doing up is a g&g cm16 r8-l, I know it’s not an expensive rifle but I want to see how good I can make it. Any help would be welcome! 

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Firstly, there usually isn’t anything wrong with the stock hop units, G&G have quite a good QC so garbage doesn’t come through often. 

 

The hop unit with the “gear on the rear”(ooooer) is known as a rotary hop unit. I have one in my custom M4, I prefer them to standard, but that’s purely my preference. For a decent one the ZCI rotary units from @ak2m4 is your best bet. 

 

The G&g green hop rubber isn’t a bad rubber at all. I prefer the Prommy(Laylax) purple hop rubber, others here will tell you to go with the Maple Leaf set ups. 

 

If you want to improve range, what weight BBS are you currently using? You want to be using the heaviest you can, .28g on a standard hop rubber. If you want to use heavier BBs, you should look into Flat/R hopping your hop Rubber(lots of info on YT).

 

 

 

For improving consistency, your going to want to take your gearbox a part, give it a damn good clean and service and check the cheap upgrades first(YT is your friend), such as AoE correction, shimming the gears, replacing air seal component o rings etc. Your air seal is what gives you the consistent puff every trigger pull, if it’s leaking, the bbs will go everywhere!

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The general advice with hop-up is don't change the actual chamber / unit unless there's something wrong with it.  In theory the hop unit that comes with each AEG has been selected by the manufacturer as it gives the best fitment between nozzle, gearbox and inner barrel.  Not all hop chambers are the same, they may say "fits V2 / M4" but you could be opening up a can of worms. 

 

That said the g&g gr16 is very common so there's probably lots of good information out there regarding it.  Just make sure you do your research first.  From what I've read is that most rotary / prowin designs don't seem to work that well with GR16's - but I've never owned one myself.  

 

Instead of a new chamber you could experiment with just a new bucking and nub, again google / search Facebook etc

 

 

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Start with a new hop rubber and nub, no need to replace the hop unit unless it is damaged. A decent rubber will help with range. I currently like the SHS Red Rocket ones but everyone has their favourite 

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Cheers for all the advice. I shall remain with my current chamber, saves a few quid. I am currently using .25s so I’m now going to get some .28s or .3s. Thanks again!

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I find .3's is a nice middle ground, if the stock unit is struggling to lift them (although i'd reckon a g&g should be fine) then you can consider it.

 

Flathopping is pretty cheap and effective, what your aiming for is a bigger contact patch so you need less pressure.

 

For a simple drop in i'm personally a fan of the pdi w hop, you can use a stock nub and i've been getting good results with them. Maple leaf stuff is good but the longer feed lips on them can give feeding issues if your not careful.

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Yeah, I bought a Prometheus purple bucking and the firefly namazu flat hop nub. I think I’m probably going to see how well it works with .3s and then go from there

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1 hour ago, Garth said:

Yeah, I bought a Prometheus purple bucking and the firefly namazu flat hop nub. I think I’m probably going to see how well it works with .3s and then go from there

Have you looked at what you need to do to flat hop that hop rubber? It’s not just a straight swap.

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1 hour ago, Prisce said:

Have you looked at what you need to do to flat hop that hop rubber? It’s not just a straight swap.

I believe I know, I shall have to remove the nub on the inside of it and any other indentation, then turn it about 90 degrees so it keeps a seal. I may be missing something though?

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👍🏻

50 minutes ago, Garth said:

I believe I know, I shall have to remove the nub on the inside of it and any other indentation, then turn it about 90 degrees so it keeps a seal. I may be missing something though?

 

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10 hours ago, Garth said:

I believe I know, I shall have to remove the nub on the inside of it and any other indentation, then turn it about 90 degrees so it keeps a seal. I may be missing something though?

 

Thats pretty much it, careful not to go poking holes in it when turning inside out/cutting the nub off.

 

Turning it 90° means you've got a nice smooth bit as your contact patch.

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