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Ares Amoeba Striker AS-01/AS-02 Owners Thread


Solly4568
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9 minutes ago, Airsofter69 said:

Then why are barrels usually so long on sniperss

Because in the real world a longer barrel means more velocity, more range and more accuracy.

 

Airsoft sniper rifles try to mimic the exterior look of said real rifles, but we have completely different mechanical principles to work with.

 

Range and consistency are given by a good hop up and a clean, straight barrel, along with the least amount of leaks in the whole system.

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42 minutes ago, Airsofter69 said:

How do I cut the barrel shorter do you just saw it off

How much of a difference does it make to shorten the barrel

Ares has 300mm outers available for sale.

I mentioned buying a 02 because along with the barrel you need to replace the sears (and piston) with 90° ones, then replace the cylinder because the stock one can't even stand 100 rounds at 1J.

 

All these modifications end up costing you quite some money, whereas All of them (except for the cylinder) are already present in the stock 02.

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8 hours ago, Airsofter69 said:

Can you explain why the cylinder needs upgrading I’ve already put in a 470 to 500fps spring and its been doing fine with 3.6g

The cylinder is made of brass, which is a really soft metal to begin with.

The butt plate (the shaft where the handle slides on) is simply pinned to the cylinder.

With use the pins enlarge the holes in the cylinder and eventually it'll just come off. This happened to me with a SP100 spring within 100 rounds, others had theirs snap off instantly. Plus the thing is so rough to pull and push back in battery. You'll start to notice the handle wobbling a bit at first, then more wobble and finally it'll break.

I recommend buying a steel cylinder (either latest gen one piece or the two piece with welded pins from Ares. Action Army also makes a really good cylinder for the striker).

 

On mine (AS-02) I have changed the hop up arm with a 3d printed one, changed the barrel to an AA 6.03x300mm steel, changed the piston and spring guide with AirsoftPro ones, cut the SP100 down to get it below 1J (my national regulation lol), swapped hop rubber for a Maple Leaf MR-Hop 50° and changed the trigger for a @Samuraione.

I also have a Samurai's straight pull handle which I put on and off depending on how I feel. Plus I've filled all the empty spaces with cotton wool/foam and machined a suppressor from the standard 14mm CCW to the 23mm CW thread of the barrel, this way I don't need an adapter to mount a suppressor on.

 

Shoots nice and straight, reaches up to 65/70 metres on 0.3s (at 0.92 Joules)

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  • 1 month later...

So.

Let me throw this here.

 

I want the gun to be as quiet as possible, filled the stock and barrel with foam and other sound absorbing materials, slapped a nice sorbo pad on the cylinder head, modified the internals of my suppressor, but there is still a very audible piston slapping sound, no matter what I do.

Most likely it's caused by the messed up volume ratio (I believe the AS-02 sits around 4:1 or something like that) so it got me thinking:

How can I reduce the cylinder volume?

Four main options:

  • Port the cylinder by drilling a hole;
  • Apply another sorbo pad to further reduce the piston travel (consequently reducing the effective air output of the cylinder);
  • Get a much wider barrel like a 6.20 or something;
  • Make an airbrake.

The first option is a big nope, I'm not willing to waste another sorbo on this gun, getting a widebore is out of question as well (because they're impossible to find here in italy), this leaves me with the 4th option, making an air brake..

 

I was looking at my piston (AirsoftPro one) and it got me thinking:

buFIoDK.jpg

The pad on the piston head is held in place by a screw.

 

So I unscrewed it and noticed that the thread goes all the way through the other (spring) side:

03Q7SuL.jpg

 

Brilliant, now what if I can find a screw that has the same thread, but is longer? So I started digging around in my box 'o bits and found some old gearbox screws, which appear to have the same thread as the piston head hole (M3) but are much longer:

7oKzeBG.jpg

 

Voilà, fits perfectly :D

But on its own, the screw isn't going to do much, so the next thing I did was to apply some heat shrink (unfortunately I don't have pictures of this step) just to see if it would work.

And to an extent it did!

Now that screw, which is a M3x20mm is definitely too short and it gets even shorter when you consider the sorbo pad on the cylinder head.

So this morning I went and bought these:

sD1ufyA.jpg

Some nice M3x30mm screws, note the different head shapes (bottom is the one I fitted yesterday).

Also bought some washers and nuts.

 

Tonight, when I get home from work, I'll install these longer screws and apply multiple layers of heat shrink (approximately until the whole thing fills the nozzle) and see what happens.

 

What do you guys reckon?

Will it work?

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  • 2 months later...

So I've finally gotten round to looking at my Striker and I think I've found the problem. One of the 4 pins holding the bolt in place has gone awol.

 

DSC_0344.JPG

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  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

Has anyone tried the co2 bolt? It seems to me to be a much more cost effective option than upgrading everything else

Edited by PopRocket123
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8 hours ago, PopRocket123 said:

Has anyone tried the co2 bolt? It seems to me to be a much more cost effective option than upgrading everything else

No, but from what I've seen it's a piece of junk, you can't set the output pressure, to swap bulbs you need to fully disassemble the cylinder, it's just too much hassle when you could spend a bit more and get a mancraft and their co2 regulator thingy, makes life so much easier.

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5 hours ago, Skara said:

No, but from what I've seen it's a piece of junk, you can't set the output pressure, to swap bulbs you need to fully disassemble the cylinder, it's just too much hassle when you could spend a bit more and get a mancraft and their co2 regulator thingy, makes life so much easier.

 

1 hour ago, Samurai said:

^^This. It's crap.

I mean the CO2 bolt.

Fair enough, thanks guys. I'll have a look at the mancraft kit for it but I want to try doing an msr kit for it which wouldn't leave any space in the stock

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Just now, PopRocket123 said:

Fair enough, thanks guys. I'll have a look at the mancraft kit for it but I want to try doing an msr kit for it which wouldn't leave any space in the stock

You can set the co2 thingy to be bolted onto a rail, check Blind Sniper on youtube for references (he does it on a vsr but the idea is the same)

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1 minute ago, Skara said:

You can set the co2 thingy to be bolted onto a rail, check Blind Sniper on youtube for references (he does it on a vsr but the idea is the same)

Thanks, not a bad idea. I could dress it up as a peq box or range finder it something

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  • 1 month later...

SO, i just got an AS-02 Kneecapper from bespoke. The cylinder has no pins on the rear so im not sure if they are already rolling up an upgraded version already or not.

Im very new to bolt guns and im trying to get more fps from my gun. I put in a m140 spring and cleaned things up inside relubed it all and its shooting 294fps with .4s +/- 3.9fps Ive got a maple lead super 70* blue waiting to go in but im waiting till ive had a range day with it to test how the stock rubber shoots before i look at replacing it.

Im just wanting to be able to reach out and touch people and save my knees the running about.

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It's a one piece cylinder, it's supposedly stronger than the usual brass one you find on 01s and 02s, but there have been reports of bad machining (well it's Ares after all and being a single piece I imagine it's not too easy to manufacture) with sharp edges and burrs on the inner wall.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi guys,

  A friend of mine is offering me his AS-01. I believe its still stock parts. What do these rifle need to work well? I understand there are some issues with the stock rifle and not just bits that need upgrading, such as body pins or something along those lines. 

  I'm thinking of going down the HPA route as I have a tank, regulator and airline at home from another project. Hopefully that would bypass the cylinder volume issue.

  Any more help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers

Dean

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  • 3 weeks later...

picked up this "EVIKE custom" ares striker. the price, TDC and magazine placement was VERY tempting for me, though the cylinder volume was an issue. but this will be more like a a low power scout rifle.

 

Im coming from a JG Bar10 (tdc mod, ml bucking, 500fps), I also just picked up the new SB tac-41.

 

I already did the indicator delete mod. it was ALREADY giving me issues. shooting 1.4joules on 0.43g from the box.

 

 

Screenshot (293).png

Edited by adas1223
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