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Halp! Looking for a new AEG around £300!


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Heyyyyyy guys, 

 

Just wanted to drop this quick thread in, i've currently got a  G&G CM16 Raider L, and i'm looking to upgrade in a few months time, I primarily play on forest based sites, so ideally medium - long range, i'm just looking for a reliable AEG with a decent fire rate and up to 350FPS, i've looked at so many different rifles such as the GC16 Wild Hog 13.5" and ARES Octarms AM-016 etc, but i'm just not sure! can anyone give me some advice on an AEG to go for, for range and rate of fire sake, I've looked at countless reviews and can't seem to gauge what would be best!

 

Thank you in advance guys!

- DETECT

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Have you considered a G&G CM16 Raider L?

 

By which I mean: what is it specifically about your Raider that you want to improve?  It should be shooting reliably at about 350fps already with fair accuracy, so the cheapest way to shoot more BBs in less time would be to throw a high speed motor and and Deans wiring to a high C lipo into your current gun.  Likewise, if the accuracy isn't all you'd want, changing the hop rubber / nub / barrel / hop unit would run you less than a new gun.  If it's under 350fps, then sort the air seal for pennies, or replace the spring for under £10.

 

If you just want another gun, that's absolutely fine (my name is Rogerborg and I am an airsoft purchasing addict...) but what is it that you want in one that's distinct from what you already have?

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There is no such thing as a medium/long range gun. All AEG's should be capable of flinging a BB to the maximum range provided the fps is right. Barrel length and cylinder volume is irrelevant. You have 1.13 joules of energy regardless, So all bb's that exit the barrel have the same energy and the same distance potential.

@Rogerborg is absolutely correct when he says the raider can perform. Because any gun can. If you want a new gun cool, But personally I'd tweak the existing one first.

The trick is consistency, and accuracy. Neither are variables that can be pinned on one component, rather they come with a combination of the gun as a whole.

To get consistency, you need a gearbox without leaks, and a barrel that is correct for the cylinder volume. The hop unit, bucking and airseal nozzle also need to be as good a match as possible.

To get accuracy you need a well finished, straight barrel, that is running a consistent hop unit with a decent bucking. Barrel length - irrelevant, Cnc hop units - irrelevant.

With that in mind any aeg can be made to meet your criteria. The truth of the matter is to get those things that are important you have to build it yourself. There is no out of the box perfect solution. A bog standard JG with a little spent on it can out perform guns that cost far far more, and there is nothing more satisfying.



For any M4 platform - Upgrade the hop unit to a rotary style, Put in a half decent inner barrel like a zci 6.02. Stick in a decent bucking maple leaf, laylax ect. Then sort the airseal nozzle, and gearbox airseals (piston head, cylinder head). Total spent less than £50. Do it right and you will have a gun that hits maximum range and does it reliably on target.

Rate of fire is as easy as a motor change. A 35K rpm motor on a good 7.4v lipo will produce 25ish rps. Anything more than that you have to start messing with the gearbox.

Picking up a specific brand gun, or expecting one out of the box solution to be better than another is like splitting hairs. You might get a great gun, or you might get one that has one minor fault not picked up on in QC that means it can't perform. Either way if you are buying a gun solely for how it performs out of the box, then you will never get what you want without spending silly money.

Personally you couldn't give me a gun with an ETU. The wildhog and the Ares both have trigger systems that are prone to failure. And when they fail they cost a small fortune to replace (because no one is going to repair an ETU). Basic contacts in comparison will take any battery without complaint, and with a protection mosfet they should last for many many years.


If you can't tech, then learn to do it. For £45 you can buy a complete gearbox from AK2M4. Use it like a practice tool. Shim it, strip it, rewire it, Correct the airseals. Then once you are confident make the Raider into a monster.

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gearboxes-complete/ec-complete-gearbox-qd-v2-rear

Rotary hop unit
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hopups-rubbers/zci-prowin-style-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4

 

Good bucking.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hopups-rubbers/maple-leaf-macaron-50-aeg

Nub for bucking.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hopups-rubbers/maple-leaf-nub

ZCI inner barrels.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels

 

Air nozzle.
https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/air-nozzles/ra-m4-aluminium-nozzle

 

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Depends what style of gun you want.

 

If you want a SMG I would highly recommend the g&g top tech UMG.  The hop unit is great and the range and accuracy is amazing.  It is by far the best standard gun I have come across in terms of effective range.

 

ASG Scorpion evo is another great out of the box gun.

 

CYMA make great AKs.   It's not sniper accurate but solid none the less.

 

I wouldn't recommend fiddling with your own gun unless you have another one to use if you can't get it working just right, except maybe getting a new hop chamber, bucking, nub, and barrel. Then you can put it all together and replace the standard one without dismantling it.  Then if it doesn't perform right put the stock one back in.

 

I recently finished turning my raider L into a DMR.  It was a great learning process and I could have done it much cheapernifbi had listens to advice on here.

Ibwould recommend learning but only when you have a backup gun.

 

So you can see whats possible here's My cm16.  Pretty much all that remains is the reciever  gearbox casing and outer barrel. (Modified to fit in the handguard)  

 

 

20180918_111820.jpg

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