Snow wolf SW-020C aug carbine, they good?

[Compulsive Reload]

On Sun Jul 29 2018 at 23:12, Iceni said:

I'm going to start to write the cut guide for the safe bar.

There might be a couple of edits as I make this post.


This is to give an aug a Semi only mode, without removing full auto.


First you want to remove the safe bar. It just pushes out to either side.

Once out there is a small metal clip that you need to keep safe.

Look on the back side of the bar, It should have a red dot on it. There should also be 2 grooves cut into this side of the bar. You need to cut a third groove between those existing slots. I find a small triangular file works best for this. You want to try match the existing grooves for depth and width as well as keeping the cut straight.




Once the cut is done you put the bar back into the gun (red dot to the shooter). Make sure you get the metal clip in position first before you put the bar in. And once it's back together you should find the safety now has 3 click positions.

Split the upper from the lower if you haven't already done so.

Now you need to measure the travel on the trigger to the semi position.

Grab a marking tool. Pen scalpel it doesn't matter. Set the bar to the safe position and pull the trigger so it stops. Mark this position on the side of the trigger slide. (1)

Pull the trigger until it reaches the de-tent where the semi auto shot finishes mark it off (2).

Pull the trigger all the way into the full auto position until it stops mark the position(3).


Measure between 1 and 2. Transfer that to the safe bar using the front of it as the 1 position. Measurement (B)




You now need to take a sideways measurement.

Put the safe bar in the auto position.

Pull the trigger all the way in. And push the safe bar over towards the safe setting till it stops moving. Use the side of the gun and mark this position on the safe bar.

Release the trigger, and push the safe bar to the new middle position. Mark the safe bar on the same side.

The distance between these marks is the amount of material you need to remove from the bar (A).




Mark the cube that needs cutting and remove it down to the lower level of the bar.

The cube of material that remains will act as a stop for the trigger, so do not accidentally cut it off! Working slowly with a scalpel is better than trying to go at it with a big knife, saw or dremel.




This should give you a semi only position on an Aug, You may have to refine the cuts, but removing less and working up to the correct measurement is better than removing more.

And here she is, looking glorious. Haven't checked if they installed the mosfet yet but pretty sure they did, downgraded the fps to about 338. 

Good service all round really and despite saying they take ukara only, they accepted my swat pass vcra.

 

Also, don't know if I'm being silly but it has a semi auto option already, just clicked the button halfway. 

 

One mag I fired and bbs stuck in the body

 

 

[Iceni]

8 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

 it has a semi auto option already, just clicked the button halfway. 

Yes that's standard, The modification means it doesn't matter how hard you pull the trigger it will not fire full auto. It's just a fail safe as some sites can be cautious of augs and other similar trigger systems.

The Snow wolf looks good

The BB's in the body is something that you will get from time to time. You can put some shimming in the magwell to help stop it. It happens when you change mags slowly or with the gun on an angle. With a little practice you will speed up on the mag change and it will stop happening so often.

Split the gun in the middle via the body pin, invert and shake out the BB's that get in there. Just make sure you remove the mag! Again it's practice, once you have done it a couple of times it'll take seconds to get them out.

[Druid799]

10 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

One mag I fired and bbs stuck in the body

To solve this problem I drilled an oversized hole in the corner of the battery compartment , and with a liberal use of vertical agitation they come out eventually! 👍

[Compulsive Reload]

1 hour ago, Iceni said:

Yes that's standard, The modification means it doesn't matter how hard you pull the trigger it will not fire full auto. It's just a fail safe as some sites can be cautious of augs and other similar trigger systems.

The Snow wolf looks good

The BB's in the body is something that you will get from time to time. You can put some shimming in the magwell to help stop it. It happens when you change mags slowly or with the gun on an angle. With a little practice you will speed up on the mag change and it will stop happening so often.

Split the gun in the middle via the body pin, invert and shake out the BB's that get in there. Just make sure you remove the mag! Again it's practice, once you have done it a couple of times it'll take seconds to get them out.

Ah I see, may leave the mod to a later date haha.

Yeah its quite nice, front grip rail feels a tad wobbly though.

 

Think there may be one left in it, the other I just shook it out from the arse end of it.

 

Cheers

17 minutes ago, Druid799 said:

To solve this problem I drilled an oversized hole in the corner of the battery compartment , and with a liberal use of vertical agitation they come out eventually! 👍

Would rather not drill it really, will do the body removal which Iceni recommended first off.

Drilling it will be a last resort or until I get fed up haha. 

[Iceni]

1 hour ago, Compulsive Reload said:

front grip rail feels a tad wobbly though

That's solid compared to an A1 style grip. The A1 grip is a very strange thing to use it constantly moves.

Have a look at where the wobble is coming from. I suspect it'll be the whole upper that has a little side to side travel. It's perfectly normal for an AUG to do this. It'll feel like it's moving loads, but really it's twisting slightly and the length of the grip makes it feel like a huge amount. It shouldn't affect shooting at all and is perfectly normal for the platform.


A couple of thing you should do.

Get some blue thread lock and put a dab on the bolts that go through the body. Those little nuts are not Nylock, and they will come undone. The one on the mag catch only want's to be finger tight so the mag catch moves nice.

Oil the plate over the trigger (gun split). And put some silicone grease on the spring.



How comfortable are you finding it to hold

 

[Druid799]

1 hour ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Would rather not drill it really, will do the body removal which Iceni recommended first off.

Drilling it will be a last resort or until I get fed up haha. 

Not as drastic as it sounds ! 😂

see the ‘bump’ at the bottom of the battery compartment ? Just drilled it next to that .

been thinking of getting one of these my self and Mod’ing it to look as much as I can make it look like the new Aussie one .

Did a ruff bit of ‘doodling’ on a pic of one .

[Compulsive Reload]

56 minutes ago, Iceni said:

That's solid compared to an A1 style grip. The A1 grip is a very strange thing to use it constantly moves.

Have a look at where the wobble is coming from. I suspect it'll be the whole upper that has a little side to side travel. It's perfectly normal for an AUG to do this. It'll feel like it's moving loads, but really it's twisting slightly and the length of the grip makes it feel like a huge amount. It shouldn't affect shooting at all and is perfectly normal for the platform.


A couple of thing you should do.

Get some blue thread lock and put a dab on the bolts that go through the body. Those little nuts are not Nylock, and they will come undone. The one on the mag catch only want's to be finger tight so the mag catch moves nice.

Oil the plate over the trigger (gun split). And put some silicone grease on the spring.



How comfortable are you finding it to hold

 

It was more the rail piece underneath but you may be right. 

 

Right okay will have a look at that, don't have the thread lock at hand but I do have the grease I think.

 

Feels good to me, similar to the p90, think I'm one of the odd ones that find bullpups the perfect length! 

11 minutes ago, Druid799 said:

Not as drastic as it sounds ! 😂

see the ‘bump’ at the bottom of the battery compartment ? Just drilled it next to that .👍

Ah I know the bit, was looking at that earlier when I was checking out to see if the mosfet was in.

 

Can't see any doodling? Those aug are lovely though, what version/kit is that? 

[Druid799]

1 minute ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Feels good to me, similar to the p90, think I'm one of the odd ones that find bullpups the perfect length! 

Nope your not bud ,I love bullpups as well . 👍

[Stormscion]

Hey guy's and Aug lovers, I am considering buying 020t as advised by Iceni but I have few questions to ask (so I had to come out of the lurking mode) if I may.

 

I have p90 which I intend to use as cqb weapon and I am looking at Aug for my Field weapon. I just love the looks and bulpup style weapons.

Does it make sense to get 020t for that job(field weapon)?

 

It was mentioned that we might want shorter barrel /variant for this thing. Why is that? I was under impression that longer barrel will give me more accuracy as maybe even a little bit of range with good length and quality precision barrel.

 

Also, Is it possible to install longer barrel and longer body on this thing or should I just go with 020b instead If it is super expensive or not practical or possible?

I have no problem with vobbly hand grip. So if that is I my difference the fact that front grip is less vobbly and on a rail I would go that route.

 

Also there is matter of mid caps.

How are mid caps on this thing? I would never use high caps on it if I don't have to.

Thx

[Iceni]

On 26/02/2019 at 10:02, Stormscion said:

I have p90 which I intend to use as cqb weapon and I am looking at Aug for my Field weapon. I just love the looks and bulpup style weapons.

Does it make sense to get 020t for that job(field weapon)?

The stock aug is 509mm barrel, the shorter variant like the 020T are 320mm.

@320mm you will have no problems on open field play. In fact, you won't have problems with guns much shorter than that provided you set them up right. I've seen MP5's that can outshoot just about anything. P90's are more than capable of hitting 200+ft.

Barrel length is only a problem if you have too much of it, And even then it depends on the gun. A ported cylinder needs a shorter barrel, but a full cylinder is still volume limited. 320-370mm is about right for a full cylinder. It's not as critical for a short field gun, but the longer you want to shoot the more benefit you will get from volume balancing. This is because it will allow for a more consistent and tighter FPS variation. It's only critical if you are taking single shots at range,  you shouldn't overthink it. Getting an AEG to shoot at max range is the first target. Getting the single shots accurate is more advanced, but it's countered because you are using an AEG and can fire on full auto at max range to get more BB's into the general area of your target. It only becomes a vital part of airsoft when you ware wanting to make kills at long range with the absolute minimum of shots fired.

Bucking and barrel quality will add far more to a stock gun than volume balancing. The ZCI steel barrel and a Prometheus purple bucking installed correctly on a gun without leaks will see a BB out to full range on any AEG that is putting the correct energy into the shot. It's the energy and backspin that make the distance and you are energy and backspin limited by design.

 

On 26/02/2019 at 10:02, Stormscion said:

Also, Is it possible to install longer barrel and longer body on this thing or should I just go with 020b instead If it is super expensive or not practical or possible?

You'll need a 2inch barrel extension to add a mock suppressor. With that, you can put a longer barrel in, but it's not essential or needed. 320mm is perfectly fine.

 

On 26/02/2019 at 10:02, Stormscion said:

I have no problem with vobbly hand grip. So if that is I my difference the fact that front grip is less vobbly and on a rail I would go that route.

There are a few options for the handgrips. The Stock A1 3 position grip is known to wobble a lot, you get used to it. The commando (020T) lower rail is better, but it's still plastic and will creak a little. It is far more solid than the A1 grip.

The A3 rail system is something you have to want. It's heavy and changes how the gun feels to use. It adds a lot more forwards weight and whilst the gun will still be decent it will not be as nice as the lighter front end variants. It is the most solid for the grip.

Personally, I have guns with both the A1 and A3 styles. I use both and have no problem with either. The A1 style is far easier to play with and causes far less fatigue over the course of a days shoot.

 

On 26/02/2019 at 10:02, Stormscion said:

Also there is matter of mid caps.

How are mid caps on this thing? I would never use high caps on it if I don't have to.

 

 Aug magazines, in general, are very good. You can get boxes of mid caps in 110 and 170rnd capacity for about £7 a mag. I've never seen any problems with any brand of mag.

@Compulsive Reload
@Druid799

How are you 2 getting on with your AUG's?

[Druid799]

12 hours ago, Iceni said:

@Compulsive Reload
@Druid799
How are you 2 getting on with your AUG's?

Don’t know about him but I’m getting on bloody marvelously thank you very much ! 😁

It’s had two full skirmish days and the accuracy has been there since the start , it’s bedding in nicely now and the range is just amazing it has had a few ‘hiccups’ it’s locked up on semi a few times (quick switch to auto back to normal) and I did have one instance when it just locked up and couldn’t get it to fire (trigger felt as if it was in safe , no movement where the selector was at all) in the end I discovered that in the gearbox behind the trigger contacts there’s a small ‘switch’ ? and it had flick completely forward and I had to physically push it back in to place but after that all’s good again ! 👍

i have also ditched the RIS block and TD grip for a ‘standard’ AUG grip , I know the biggest complaint against the AUG grip is it’s wobbly as hell but I just didn’t like the creaking and movement of the block so that’s gone .

[Stormscion]

On 27/02/2019 at 23:28, Iceni said:

The stock aug is 509mm barrel, the shorter variant like the 020T are 320mm.

@320mm you will have no problems on open field play. In fact, you won't have problems with guns much shorter than that provided you set them up right. I've seen MP5's that can outshoot just about anything. P90's are more than capable of hitting 200+ft.

Barrel length is only a problem if you have too much of it, And even then it depends on the gun. A ported cylinder needs a shorter barrel, but a full cylinder is still volume limited. 320-370mm is about right for a full cylinder. It's not as critical for a short field gun, but the longer you want to shoot the more benefit you will get from volume balancing. This is because it will allow for a more consistent and tighter FPS variation. It's only critical if you are taking single shots at range,  you shouldn't overthink it. Getting an AEG to shoot at max range is the first target. Getting the single shots accurate is more advanced, but it's countered because you are using an AEG and can fire on full auto at max range to get more BB's into the general area of your target. It only becomes a vital part of airsoft when you ware wanting to make kills at long range with the absolute minimum of shots fired.

Bucking and barrel quality will add far more to a stock gun than volume balancing. The ZCI steel barrel and a Prometheus purple bucking installed correctly on a gun without leaks will see a BB out to full range on any AEG that is putting the correct energy into the shot. It's the energy and backspin that make the distance and you are energy and backspin limited by design.

 

You'll need a 2inch barrel extension to add a mock suppressor. With that, you can put a longer barrel in, but it's not essential or needed. 320mm is perfectly fine.

 

There are a few options for the handgrips. The Stock A1 3 position grip is known to wobble a lot, you get used to it. The commando (020T) lower rail is better, but it's still plastic and will creak a little. It is far more solid than the A1 grip.

The A3 rail system is something you have to want. It's heavy and changes how the gun feels to use. It adds a lot more forwards weight and whilst the gun will still be decent it will not be as nice as the lighter front end variants. It is the most solid for the grip.

Personally, I have guns with both the A1 and A3 styles. I use both and have no problem with either. The A1 style is far easier to play with and causes far less fatigue over the course of a days shoot.

 

 

 Aug magazines, in general, are very good. You can get boxes of mid caps in 110 and 170rnd capacity for about £7 a mag. I've never seen any problems with any brand of mag.

@Compulsive Reload
@Druid799

How are you 2 getting on with your AUG's?

 

Thank you on very detailed response.

Much appreciated!

[Bekő Dániel]

Hello all. 

 

I have a question i bought a Snow Wolf SW-020T Aug A3 Replica and i wonder if i can load a M4 mid cap sinto the gun or its's only works with just the aug mags. 

(i think this beause the real one also use 5.56m rounds and can be loaded with another 5.56m mags if it's not the case i'm sorry) 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

P.S: sorry for bad english. 

 

 

[Asomodai]

35 minutes ago, Bekő Dániel said:

Hello all. 

 

I have a question i bought a Snow Wolf SW-020T Aug A3 Replica and i wonder if i can load a M4 mid cap sinto the gun or its's only works with just the aug mags. 

(i think this beause the real one also use 5.56m rounds and can be loaded with another 5.56m mags if it's not the case i'm sorry) 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

P.S: sorry for bad english. 

 

 

 

Nope, only aug mags as standard. 

 

I believe there is a 3Dprint design for an adapter somewhere, but I don't know of any commercially available ones. 

[Bekő Dániel]

Hello every one!

 

I have a question for you again! 

 

I bought a Snow Wolf SW-020T(AUG A3) Replica and i borrowed my friends sillencer to check how sick it would look like with it. 

Sadly it can't be fitted not. Becous i can't upt on it, it's Becous when i take down the flash hider out of the barrel the plece where i need to be screwed to is to deep into the gun i can't fit the suppressor there (pics below). 

 

I have attached a pic a out the gun and it has a ~320mm inner barrel length and a barrel thread type of 14m CCW. 

 

So i'm asking if i can change the barrel to a 330-350mm barrel so i can hopefully buy any barrel or specific barrel for my gun and fit in it and will works to so i can put that sick suppressor on it. 😊

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

P. S. Sorry for my english 🙂

[Cipher-032]

You need a barrel extension. Only a small one.

[Airsoft Newb]

On 29/07/2018 at 15:22, Iceni said:

What you see there is the x304u mosfet, And a deans connector on the south side of the fet to the motor (fully heatshrunk). That deans connector gives me a QC motor system. I solder the wires directly to the motor with a deans on the end, and can then swap motors at will.

Hi, I’ve just stumbled across this while looking for advice. I have just bought one of these as part of a used bundle and want to fit a mosfet to enable me to use a lipo. This looks to be exactly fitting for me! Am I right in thinking this is wired in without opening the gearbox? If so would you be able to give me pointers on how/ where to fit it on the loom? 

 

Sorry to open this this old thread but this is just what I am looking for.

 

 Thanks in advance 😌

[Iceni]

It's pretty easy to do the install of the Mosfet if you are decent with a soldering iron.

You will need a soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, and extra wire.

I have an image somewhere that shows where to cut. Unfortunately it's on one of my redundant old hard drives so I may have to make another one.

Just give me a day or two and I'll have the information you need

The red X's are where you cut.



It's then soldered in like this for the XET304u


 

 

note your just tagging the mosfet trigger wires into the old trigger circuit, and running a direct connection through the fet to the battery.

 

 

[Airsoft Newb]

7 hours ago, Iceni said:

 

It's pretty easy to do the install of the Mosfet if you are decent with a soldering iron.

You will need a soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, and extra wire.

I have an image somewhere that shows where to cut. Unfortunately it's on one of my redundant old hard drives so I may have to make another one.

Just give me a day or two and I'll have the information you need

The red X's are where you cut.



It's then soldered in like this for the XET304u


 

 

note your just tagging the mosfet trigger wires into the old trigger circuit, and running a direct connection through the fet to the battery.

 

You are an absolute star! I presumed it would be that simple but I’m still learning. I haven’t had the need to go inside a gearbox yet as nothing has been wrong. I’m ready to have a go at shimming, but don’t want to open up a gun and make it worse when It’s working fine. 
 

Its shooting hot at about 400 FPS so I need to downgrade the spring as well. As you have knowledge in these areas would you say M100 would drop it to about 350? I don’t know what spring is in there now. I’ve had the gearbox out and worked out the quick change system. 
 

Again, thank you so much for the detail. I’m very grateful. 👍

[Iceni]

I'd probably try get an M100 into it. How hard that is will depend on the gearbox variant. If you have the QC spring system then it'll take a few minutes. If you have a regular V3 gearbox then you will have to disassemble it.

AK2M4 should have springs in stock at a decent price.

[Airsoft Newb]

2 hours ago, Iceni said:

 

I'd probably try get an M100 into it. How hard that is will depend on the gearbox variant. If you have the QC spring system then it'll take a few minutes. If you have a regular V3 gearbox then you will have to disassemble it.

 

It’s quick change so won’t be any bother. Thanks again for all the help 👍