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Compulsive Reload

G&G firehawk stopping firing/cutting out

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Was in the middle of a skirmish before and the gun would sometimes stop firing and the trigger would be stuck, would have to switch it from auto back to semi, noticed it was firing multiple round on some occasions and it would cut out on semi on and off, sometimes firing slower and sometimes faster.

 

Using 7.4v 1300 cranestock lipo 25-50c, charged it the other day but not before game? 

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2 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

stop firing and the trigger would be stuck


Describe that in more detail. Is it like the gun is in safe and the trigger wont move. Or has the trigger got stuck in the fully pulled position? Or is the trigger moving like normal and the gun just isn't shooting.

 

 

2 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

it was firing multiple round on some occasions

Is that in semi, so a single shot is double shooting, Or is the gun letting multiple BB's out at a time.

 

 

2 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

it would cut out on semi on and off

Cut out, or the trigger would jam?

 



I would start by having a look at the motor contacts and fuse. Shoot the gun with the fuse exposed and see if it's glowing. If it is the fuse needs uprating and you are suffering from a bit of increased resistance when the fuse is hot.

Have you changed the motor? or removed the motor recently?

Have you done any recent soldering?

How old is the gun?

When was it last serviced, and has it been skirmished without fault since?

 

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8 hours ago, Iceni said:


Describe that in more detail. Is it like the gun is in safe and the trigger wont move. Or has the trigger got stuck in the fully pulled position? Or is the trigger moving like normal and the gun just isn't shooting.

 

 

Is that in semi, so a single shot is double shooting, Or is the gun letting multiple BB's out at a time.

 

 

Cut out, or the trigger would jam?

 



I would start by having a look at the motor contacts and fuse. Shoot the gun with the fuse exposed and see if it's glowing. If it is the fuse needs uprating and you are suffering from a bit of increased resistance when the fuse is hot.

Have you changed the motor? or removed the motor recently?

Have you done any recent soldering?

How old is the gun?

When was it last serviced, and has it been skirmished without fault since?

 

The gun would completely jam as if its in safe, then I would switch to auto then back to semi to fix it.

 

Was firing multiple sometimes in semi

 

Trigger would cut out in semi, sometimes it would fire faster and sometimes it would be slower, I was timing the trigger pulls as best as I could.

 

Its brand new, bought it from patrolbase around 1-2 weeks ago and first time I have skirmished it. 

 

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38 minutes ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Its brand new, bought it from patrolbase around 1-2 weeks ago and first time I have skirmished it.

 Call patrol base.

Take a video of the problems, and have them replace the gun at their cost since the issues have shown on the first shoot.

I have an idea what the problems could be but with the warranty still intact you don't want to go poking about in the gearbox.

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22 minutes ago, Iceni said:

 Call patrol base.

Take a video of the problems, and have them replace the gun at their cost since the issues have shown on the first shoot.

I have an idea what the problems could be but with the warranty still intact you don't want to go poking about in the gearbox.

Alright will do thanks, ill try and get a vid soon.

 

Could it be anything to do with battery fully charged it a few days ago so don't know if the charge was low or not. 

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58 minutes ago, Iceni said:

 Call patrol base.

Take a video of the problems, and have them replace the gun at their cost since the issues have shown on the first shoot.

I have an idea what the problems could be but with the warranty still intact you don't want to go poking about in the gearbox.

Called them, seemed to say it will happen if you pull the trigger too quickly, not sure whether I was or not.

 

Here's a video

 

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It's a common occurrence when you spam the semi auto on a lot of gear boxes

 

Essentially, you're not letting the gun finish firing one shot before you're asking it to fire off another. It gets itself into a tizzy and jams up.

Usually a blast of full auto sorts it 

 

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42 minutes ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Could it be anything to do with battery fully charged it a few days ago so don't know if the charge was low or not.

Not if you read up on lipo saftey.

A lipo when it discharges does it in a very predictable way.

It starts off with a steep voltage drop from 8.4v to about 7.5v, but then levels out for most of the capacity of the battery 7.5v-7v. Then falls off again very quickly when it's almost done and give an shot by shot slowdown (you should pull the battery and swap it out as soon as this starts to happen).

You shouldn't see much variation in gearbox cycle times once it gets past that initial drop off. It should be a stable fire rate. Once it hits the final part of the discharge again you will notice it as significant slowing of the gearbox, but it won't stop shooting it'll just cycle slower.

1300mah is pretty low capacity, so if you were shooting it a lot after the first charge before the skirmish you might have gone out with a battery at only half charge. And if you have taken the battery to the bottom of the capacity into the range where it can no longer cycle the gun and was going very slowly then you might of done significant damage to the lipo. You have to watch them and swap them at the start of the final drop off.

If that is the case you need to measure the voltage of the lipo. If it is showing less than 5.8v it might be  unsafe to charge . And it needs charging on a proper charging station that can refuse to charge a depleted/unsafe lipo. Rather than a cheap charger. Your skirmish site will have one of these if you don't.
 

 

1 hour ago, Compulsive Reload said:

The gun would completely jam as if its in safe, then I would switch to auto then back to semi to fix it.

 

This sounds like the saftey lever is jamming in the safe position, it probably getting caught on a wire and not falling off properly. It'll need the gearbox opening to check. You have a warranty use it. The video looks to back that up.

The battery in the video looks to be fine BTW, But it's worth leaving that statement up  there^^ to remind you how dangerous lipos can be. If you only have the 1x 1300mAh battery get another so you can swap it out when it starts to fall off.


Send that video to Patrol base. It's good evidence and shows the fault as a fault. They will have to act on it. But you also need to do another video without spamming semi. To prove it's not you spamming causing the issue.

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Iceni said:

Not if you read up on lipo saftey.

A lipo when it discharges does it in a very predictable way.

It starts off with a steep voltage drop from 8.4v to about 7.5v, but then levels out for most of the capacity of the battery 7.5v-7v. Then falls off again very quickly when it's almost done and give an shot by shot slowdown (you should pull the battery and swap it out as soon as this starts to happen).

You shouldn't see much variation in gearbox cycle times once it gets past that initial drop off. It should be a stable fire rate. Once it hits the final part of the discharge again you will notice it as significant slowing of the gearbox, but it won't stop shooting it'll just cycle slower.

1300mah is pretty low capacity, so if you were shooting it a lot after the first charge before the skirmish you might have gone out with a battery at only half charge. And if you have taken the battery to the bottom of the capacity into the range where it can no longer cycle the gun and was going very slowly then you might of done significant damage to the lipo. You have to watch them and swap them at the start of the final drop off.

If that is the case you need to measure the voltage of the lipo. If it is showing less than 5.8v it might be  unsafe to charge . And it needs charging on a proper charging station that can refuse to charge a depleted/unsafe lipo. Rather than a cheap charger. Your skirmish site will have one of these if you don't.
 

 

 

This sounds like the saftey lever is jamming in the safe position, it probably getting caught on a wire and not falling off properly. It'll need the gearbox opening to check. You have a warranty use it. The video looks to back that up.

The battery in the video looks to be fine BTW, But it's worth leaving that statement up  there^^ to remind you how dangerous lipos can be. If you only have the 1x 1300mAh battery get another so you can swap it out when it starts to fall off.


Send that video to Patrol base. It's good evidence and shows the fault as a fault. They will have to act on it. But you also need to do another video without spamming semi. To prove it's not you spamming causing the issue.

 

 

Yeh I have another one, was only a small night game for 2 hours, didn't realise they don't last long.

 

Ill charge that battery now, do you have to keep topping them up to keep them safe?

 

So its definitely a fault and not me spamming?

Cheers

 

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29 minutes ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Ill charge that battery now, do you have to keep topping them up to keep them safe?


For storage you want them on about 3.8v per cell. So 7.4-7.8v. It wants to be on the flat part of the discharge curve, not fully charged, not depleted.

 

 

33 minutes ago, Compulsive Reload said:

So its definitely a fault and not me spamming?


Won't know until I see a video with a controlled semi shoot. If you can make it happen under controlled fire you have a problem, if you can't then it's you shooting style. Normally when it's a trigger lockup due to spamming the trigger runs free and fails to engage, Yours isn't it's been locked back by the safety latch at the front of the gearbox. So I suspect you can still make it happen with a controlled rate of fire.

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2 hours ago, Iceni said:


For storage you want them on about 3.8v per cell. So 7.4-7.8v. It wants to be on the flat part of the discharge curve, not fully charged, not depleted.

 

 


Won't know until I see a video with a controlled semi shoot. If you can make it happen under controlled fire you have a problem, if you can't then it's you shooting style. Normally when it's a trigger lockup due to spamming the trigger runs free and fails to engage, Yours isn't it's been locked back by the safety latch at the front of the gearbox. So I suspect you can still make it happen with a controlled rate of fire.

Made another video, charged the battery up a bit prior to making this.

 

Seems alright then when I fire quicker seems to jam up and the handle gets warm, must be me then?

 

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8 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Seems alright then when I fire quicker seems to jam up and the handle gets warm, must be me then?

Yeah looks to be you.

Just keep an eye on it.

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4 minutes ago, Iceni said:

Yeah looks to be you.

Just keep an eye on it.

Yeah seemed like it from that, seemed different in game also was using a 2inch barrel extension and a tracer also in the skirmish, had the original flash hider on in the video.

 

Seemed to slow down when I wasn't even firing fast on site but might not be timing the trigger pulls properly in the heat of the moment with my gloves on, will test it sunday if I go.

 

Ordered a fireproof lipo bag aswell as they seem safer for storage atleast, will get one of those voltage testers aswell.

 

Cheers 

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Those fireproof bags are for charging as well. Good idea.

Voltage tester  - your better off with a cheap multimeter. You can pick them up for about £10. And for that you get a whole load of useful functions. For the money it's better than anything designed specifically for airsoft.

Voltage testing with them is as easy as selecting the correct function and touching the probes to the battery terminals.

They also come in really handy for looking for electrical faults if you know how to use one. You can use them in the home and car as well. I have a couple because it's the first tool I grab  when I have any electrical problem.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

 

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8 hours ago, Iceni said:

Those fireproof bags are for charging as well. Good idea.

Voltage tester  - your better off with a cheap multimeter. You can pick them up for about £10. And for that you get a whole load of useful functions. For the money it's better than anything designed specifically for airsoft.

Voltage testing with them is as easy as selecting the correct function and touching the probes to the battery terminals.

They also come in really handy for looking for electrical faults if you know how to use one. You can use them in the home and car as well. I have a couple because it's the first tool I grab  when I have any electrical problem.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

 

Ah okay cheers, will probably pick one of them up for sure in a bit then as its only down the road, reasonably priced actually.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

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18 hours ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Made another video, charged the battery up a bit prior to making this.

 

Seems alright then when I fire quicker seems to jam up and the handle gets warm, must be me then?

 

 

That has to be the noisiest fucking AEG I have ever heard!

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18 minutes ago, Duff said:

 

That has to be the noisiest fucking AEG I have ever heard!

Yeah its the firehawk, the duckbill amplifier really makes it cracks but its loud even without it, funny in cqb.

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1 hour ago, Compulsive Reload said:

Yeah its the firehawk, the duckbill amplifier really makes it cracks but its loud even without it, funny in cqb.

 

It sounds horrible.

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41 minutes ago, Duff said:

 

It sounds horrible.

I like the sound personally, on video just sounds like a loud gun, different in person.

2 minutes ago, E21A said:

Is it me or is it misfeeding a lot? 

Didn't think it was on video, was kind of firing at the hole in the box/video quality is poor.

 

Was using a lonex hi cap flash mag in it.

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May just be video quality but when looking at the muzzle it seemed it was misfeeding quite a bit. 

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Just now, E21A said:

May just be video quality but when looking at the muzzle it seemed it was misfeeding quite a bit. 

I'll prob try and test it soon then, jg scorpion arrived so messing with that atm.

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On Fri Jul 20 2018 at 01:56, Iceni said:

Those fireproof bags are for charging as well. Good idea.

Voltage tester  - your better off with a cheap multimeter. You can pick them up for about £10. And for that you get a whole load of useful functions. For the money it's better than anything designed specifically for airsoft.

Voltage testing with them is as easy as selecting the correct function and touching the probes to the battery terminals.

They also come in really handy for looking for electrical faults if you know how to use one. You can use them in the home and car as well. I have a couple because it's the first tool I grab  when I have any electrical problem.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

 

Got the voltage tester,stick battery showing as 8.31 on 20v via tester 

 

Cranestock showing as 7.53

 

That okay or....

 

Both 7.4 25c batteries 

IMG_20180721_210335.jpg

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yep that's fine for storage.

7.4 lipo's don't actually run at 7.4v.

Fully charged they have about 4.2v per cell, 7.4v batteries have 2 cells. So fully charged expect to see 8.4v.

Fully discharged they have 2.8 to 3volts per cell. So expect to see 6 volts.

Storage voltage is 3.8v per cell. So anywhere in the 7.4-7.8v range will be best to store them, It doesn't need to be a set voltage for storage, Close enough is fine, provided it's not fully charged or discharged.

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Just now, Iceni said:

yep that's fine for storage.

7.4 lipo's don't actually run at 7.4v.

Fully charged they have about 4.2v per cell, 7.4v batteries have 2 cells. So fully charged expect to see 8.4v.

Fully discharged they have 2.8 to 3volts per cell. So expect to see 6 volts.

Storage voltage is 3.8v per cell. So anywhere in the 7.4-7.8v range will be best to store them.

Ah okay awesome, do they discharge slowly in storage/will you have to top them up?

 

When is the voltage too low to charge on these?

 

Thanks. 

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