Jump to content
Airsoft Forums UK
Sitting Duck

Thought it sounded a bit rough...

Recommended Posts

Soz might be posted in wrong section...

could be electric or whatever but it is a general rant tbh coz I'm both pi$$ed n shocked at crappy QC

 

Not a great fan of cyma gears(runs a bit rough) & their lame 27/28tpa motors....

 

well one motor seemed to have a lot of play - and spaced a bit iffy within field/magnets

(just loads of play and seemed if it was spaced too high)

sounded a bit rough spinning it over by hand too

so took it apart to see if I could just sort out the way too much excess and position in field better...

 

WTF ????

 

Grh5pYc.jpg

 

soz it's out of focus, pic doesn't do it justice or injustice to be exact

f*ck me the winding was well [email protected]

the previous winding was sloppy and likely added to the windings not laying flat

the last winding was scraping on the ferrite magnets and what not, probably blow over time

well that is not going back in and I'll be f*cked it I can ar$ed to rewind

(probably buy a cheap neodym motor instead but was messing with a virtually zilch cost service/tweak AK)

 

you get what pay for I guess

think this is the new guy in charge of cyma motors...

 

Related image

 

Reason was the pinion & bevel never mesh great on cyma's

shs pinions don't mesh much better - still a bit off 90 degree meshing angle

 

Ahhh a BD 160 pinion meshes good, could swap them over as both D type

 

Wanted to tweak it a bit but keep it nigh on stock, maybe mosfet & run on 11.1v to get a bit of snap at 20rps aprox stock

can't go nutz above 25rps on full stroke AK really, so no point splashing loads of money or new motor/gears etc....

keep it ultra cheap n cheerful - get to say 13rps on 7.4v with lame motor maybe or 20~22 on 11.1v is my thoughts....

OK lets sort out that play now I got the pinion off to swap over...

 

WTF - hence me posting cyma craftmanship

(bit unfair coz these crap motors are banged out by highly trained engineers I know elsewhere in Chinese sweatshops)

but still a bit pi$$ed my cheapo plans have to be re-evaluated now due to [email protected] windings

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

is that core not straight? looks pretty bowed from here.

 

ygwypf i guess, i certainly wouldn't have been surprised to see some poor quality in a budget gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

is that core not straight? looks pretty bowed from here.

 

ygwypf i guess, i certainly wouldn't have been surprised to see some poor quality in a budget gun.

 

It is a terrible - no $hit to be exact...

A $hit bit of motor winding on the armature

 

Normally, the copper enamel wire is wound tightly & precisely well inside the 3 x slots or " V " sections on armature

Normally all the wire would sit about 2mm or so below the outer edge never to be seen

One V looks nice & neat

another is a bit less precisely wound - think it started to go a bit out of control

and the last winding - ahh f*ck it, it is home time - it's chicken (chow mien) tonight - I'm off

 

Or something like that, think it was the person's last motor winding of their shift - nah f*ck it, that'll be alright

 

Bit of a pi$$er coz I got spare long motor/arms but not so the short type

Got a couple of fast BD M160 & SHS HS motors but they really are quick and really ramp up the amps

stuff runs warm even perfectly shimmed etc... and battery drains very quickly

(probably dump the 12~14 tpa arms & redo these fast motors with sensible 20~22 tpa arms instead)

Don't want to use an ultra fast neodym or buy another motor if I can help it

Just a bummer the armature is [email protected], could have got by with moody brushes, dodgy can/magnets or something

but the arm is bollox'd so it has sort of pi$$ed on my firework of ultra cheapo tweaked build

 

The idea was to use nigh on all stock parts where ever possible, just re-do the box

epoxy the loose bushings, clean up box, minor sand rough burrs, radius box, silicone AoE mod

I replaced the stock plastic cyma piston with the metal rack cyma one

reluctantly had to use a shs tappet coz o-ring nozzle I'm using was way too loose in cyma tappet

Replaced the cheapo alloy COL with SHS steel COL, so shouldn't get semi issues a year later etc....

 

OK spend £10, then OK maybe £15 if I diy rewire & 3034 mosfet, OK £20 with new tappet plate etc....

Ohhhh ffs don't wanna chuck in a £25 or so new motor now....

 

Idea was the high 27/28 tpa would pull hardly any amps, run 11.1v to get 20rps or so on a £7 block 11.1v

should be pulling below 10 amps so all stayed cool & battery lasted etc.....

 

Think I might have a short motor in another gun I might nick - but still a pi$$er I hadn't expected :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×