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G&G advice

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Hi folks,


New to the forum and airsofting in general. I've caught the bug and I'm looking to buy my first gun.


Given my budget of 150ish I'm leaning towards either g&g cm16 raider 2.0 (£140ish) or the cm16 FFR A2 (£165ish).


Ive read a fair bit here and elsewhere about the various problems that can be caused by the ETU but I do like the idea of having the additional protection and longevity the mosfet should provide.


Is it worth paying the extra for the a2 or am I likely to have more problems? Have those running the a2 on 11.1v batts had any problems? If I go for the 2.0 what is the batt of choice for other owners? I am not looking to tinker (just yet). Just after something that'll shoot reliably out of the box and be abit more enjoyable that the local fields ropey rental g36.


What's the general consensus on these two guns?



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I've had my "bog standard" g&g for nearly a year now and no problems at all. Range is really good for its size and it's barely dropped 5fps in the time I've had it. 

It is also totally not fussy over what bb's I feed it, and runs excellently on 7.4 lipos.


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Raider 2.0 - end off discussion


my FFR A2 ETU went tits up - no thanks

Oh & the barrel is about 210mm not 260mm


It isn't even that the FFR A2 has any better internals - it doesn't

you get the same lame ar$e 18k grey G&G motor in FFR A2 as Raider 1


Consider looking at CM18 or others....

a repost but wtf:


some nice G&G's....
Older/established models.....

G&G CM18 is still one of my fav guns
comes with mid cap than usual high cap - so speed loader req
(not a big fan of the flash hider but can't please everybody)


Or loud mouth FireHawk - but not the HC05 lame DSG with no semi

very nice newer models like Raider 2.0....


Raider 2.0 is non ETU
don't get Raider 2.0E as that has picky ETU


or very recently launched


CM15 KR-CQB 8.5" (also 13" & 14.5")

These guns are very nice cheaper non-ETU G&G polymer guns worth considering



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Thanks very much for the responses guys, raider 2.0 it is.


I will need to buy a battery for this too. So I'm looking at 7.4v Lipo. Is there a preferred brand? Any ideas what the largest mah and configuration I get away with physically installing? Is it the nunchuck type?

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If you are going Lipo you would be advised to get a  good balance charger. Some sort of safeguard against fire is also advisable.


If you bought the raider with the crane stock, which is rear wired, you would be able to get a 9.6 nimh nunchuck battery into it. Not as good as a big  lipo but probably the equal of a 7.4 in terms of rof. 


But I suppose there is a reason that 7.4 lipos are the most popular batteries out there at the moment.


Fire Support had a couple of advanced G&G M4 style rifles a little while ago reduced to a good price. They are old technology without mosfet and ETU, and I suppose that is the reason for the price drop. I had already committed myself to the AK platform or I would have snapped one up. I have taken the advice of more experienced members on here to keep it simple and avoid the latest electronic trickery unless it is full proof. The simpler the gun the less there is to go wrong. 


When funds allow I will probably get a raider as a back up gun too.


Does the CM18 have a different motor from the CM16?

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Thanks for the advice on the lipos, I've already done a fair bit of research on them and I'll be using my a friends proper Lipo charger for the minute which he uses for his rc lipos.


Just wondering what the largest mah I can get away with so I dont have to worry too much about running low. I'm gunna head to my local(ish) store tomorrow to have a play. Will report back in case it helps anyone else.

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I'd suggest something like 2 of these https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1200mah-2s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack-1.html


IMO, 2 is better than 1 as you can switch over at lunch with plenty of capacity still to spare and not run the risk of dropping the voltage too low.  Also, if one does die, you've still got one to play with.


I say "something like" as other opinions, mAhs, voltages, sizes and connectors are available.  In particular, Deans (what HobbyKing call 'T' connectors) are far superior to mini-Tamiya for reasons that are immediately apparent when you compare them side to side.


You can buy batteries with Deans / T connectors, but your gun is likely to come with mini-Tamiya as standard and will need converted either by you or the retailer.  It's a 5 minute job with a soldering iron and well worth doing, at some small risk of voiding your explicit warranty (although not your statutory rights).

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Sorry but I am unable to find a cancel function.


I have deleted this in order to start another thread.

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