Jump to content
HKRiceBucket

G&G MOSFET

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

New to this scene I tried using search in this forum and outside this forum and most answers seem to point with old posts of G&G Mosfet issues from years ago. Can't seem to find a conclusion to this so thought I ask with a new topic. Now the general consensus with the older MOSFET from G&G and terrible which I understand. However I was wondering if the newer G&G guns like Raider 2.0 E , SRXL etc still has that persistent problem or they're more reliable now? If they have improved from which point would you roughly say in terms of releases did people see improvements? Say from the Wildhog, Predator releases etc or? 

 

Been a lot of debating wether the whole MOSFET thing was worth the headache it seemed to have caused many people. 

 

Get G&G with MOSFET, replace with a different brand MOSFET or not or just no MOSFET at all?

 

Thanks in advance and apologies if this has been covered before.

 

Kind regards,

 

J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you talking about mosfets or ETU's.

I suspect you mean ETU.

The version 1 ETU has a couple of problems, the main one been it's got a not very clever voltage protection. Provided you run 11.1 20c batteries they tend to work aright. Anything outside of that will cause problems. 7.4, 9.6 ect ect.

They also have a problem burning out if the ampage draw is too high from the system. So if you try to run a high discharge battery on a high ampage system to get the ROF up then there is a chance the electronics will burn out.


The current generation seem more stable, I've seen less reports of problems.

The problem with replacing an ETU  system is you have to put new contacts into the gun as well. The ETU runs on 2 micro switches, One for the trigger and one for the cut off. So a standard fet simply won't work unless you open up the gearbox and put in regular style contacts or a micro switch on dolly system. As a regular Fet requires that the trigger dolly is pulled back to break the circuit. The ETU's have no mechanical circuit break so running the etu contact block on a regular fet would mean full auto only.


Personally I would avoid ETU v1 guns. Unless you get a full warranty and have the correct batteries.

v2 guns again I would want the warranty, but I'd be more willing to try other batteries.

For the best of all worlds I would pick the gun with the best exterior, then send the gearbox away to have it tuned and fetted if you are not capable. That way you have a gun with a fet you have 100% confidence in, and in addition you have the best externals and a fully shimmed gearbox.


If you are looking at the G&G etu models then have a look at what you can get without a fet for the same money or less. The G&G models have good externals but there plastic even at the top end. You can get some very nice all metal models from other companies, and have them fetted for a similar price.



 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I stand corrected then. Thank you. I guess I'll continue browsing for now. Learn something new everyday 😃

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Raider 2.0 has no mosfet

Raider 2.0E has the ETU

 

get the non ETU version Raider 2.0

 

pretty sure when the G&G PDW15 CQB Honey Badger launched

they didn't fit any ETU or even a mosfet in there on a £260+ gun wtf ???

 

Oi G&G - if your ETU's are so sound why didn't you put one in that new gun then ???

probably didn't want any more bad reviews on their new guns

 

I would not buy another ETU gun - well I'd be very likely ripping it out at some point

like I ended up doing to my own FFR A2 when it failed & crapped out

https://airsoft-forums.uk/topic/299...ing-issue/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-23355

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The ETU is good when it works, on a low RPS gun.

The problem is half of the owners are unaware that upgrades especially to the motor and spring might burn it out.

And the ETU itself is neither clever enough to read batteies, or dumb enough not to give a fuck.

Gate produce a couple of basic units that make the ETU redundant.

https://gatee.eu/

Nanohard - does circuit protection, is programmable for every common lipo, Has a fuse built in, And has active brake toggle. But it doesn't do 3rnd burst lol!

The Warfet - does all of the above + programmable burst. + precock, + ROF control + It has a proper controller that has buttons and allows you to program everything in the safe zone.

The titan does all of the above + it wipes your arse + it'll shag your wife when you haven't got the stomach.

What I'm trying to say is other companies do the mosfet thing better. With a warranty, and at a price that is actually reasonable. They also don't need hard wiring. Gate use deans and connectors so you can move it between guns if your a cheap bastard.

If all you want is protection then there are loads of options I like the xcoretech x304u style units, and the sparklabs microfets. AK2M4 sell these at bargain prices.

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/mosfets

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Iceni said:

Are you talking about mosfets or ETU's.

I suspect you mean ETU.

The version 1 ETU has a couple of problems, the main one been it's got a not very clever voltage protection. Provided you run 11.1 20c batteries they tend to work aright. Anything outside of that will cause problems. 7.4, 9.6 ect ect.

They also have a problem burning out if the ampage draw is too high from the system. So if you try to run a high discharge battery on a high ampage system to get the ROF up then there is a chance the electronics will burn out.


The current generation seem more stable, I've seen less reports of problems.

The problem with replacing an ETU  system is you have to put new contacts into the gun as well. The ETU runs on 2 micro switches, One for the trigger and one for the cut off. So a standard fet simply won't work unless you open up the gearbox and put in regular style contacts or a micro switch on dolly system. As a regular Fet requires that the trigger dolly is pulled back to break the circuit. The ETU's have no mechanical circuit break so running the etu contact block on a regular fet would mean full auto only.


Personally I would avoid ETU v1 guns. Unless you get a full warranty and have the correct batteries.

v2 guns again I would want the warranty, but I'd be more willing to try other batteries.

For the best of all worlds I would pick the gun with the best exterior, then send the gearbox away to have it tuned and fetted if you are not capable. That way you have a gun with a fet you have 100% confidence in, and in addition you have the best externals and a fully shimmed gearbox.


If you are looking at the G&G etu models then have a look at what you can get without a fet for the same money or less. The G&G models have good externals but there plastic even at the top end. You can get some very nice all metal models from other companies, and have them fetted for a similar price.


 

Could you name any names of companies that do nice metal models as alternatives to fettled G&G plastic guns?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are loads.

Some of the nicest are no longer produced unfortunately. The magnesium G&G casts.

Specna arms would be the company I would look at first. They have a few M4's  just a little more expensive than the CM R2.0.

https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152214500-SA-K01-Assault-Rifle-Replica.html

https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152200040-Specna-Arms-SA-A03-carbine-replica.html

Those guns get a lot of things right.

The gearbox is well selected, Alu piston head, Brass double cylinder head, Metal oring air nozzle, QC spring, Decent gears, bearings.

Sort of adding a mosfet there is little you would need to do to one to have a fantastic gun.

Failing that I would go second hand. Seriously. You can pick up some really nice guns. King arms, G&P, ICS, A&K, Ares, VFC all have metal bodied m4's for new between £250-300, so second hand you should be able to grab one for not much more than the new G&G R2.0.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Iceni.

 

Your notparticularly keen on the cheaper G&Gs then?

 

I've heard that they are an American owned company now.

 

Is this true?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No idea about the ownership.

It's not the guns that are the problem, Internally and externally they work well. All of the problems you see about them are related to that ETU.

They offer more than what would be expected form any other company at the same price point. The trouble is if you get the balance wrong and blow up the ETU you have a £40 replacement part to buy. If you don't correct the error you could potentially cost yourself £80 and still not know the batteries are at fault. Get the balance right however and don't go messing with the motor and spring you might have a gun that will do the distance. The trouble is people like upgrades.

Provided you avoid those ETU models there is absolutely nothing wrong with the G&G guns. It's only when you start looking at the £180+ range with the ETU that you should start to think about looking elsewhere.

Compare that to a dumb gun. No mosfet. You stick a whacking 14.4v lipo in it... The fuse blows. £1 for 3, and can be changed at the roadside, and as soon as you ask why it's got a problem everyone will point out the 14.4v lipo. The point is no damage was done. Stick a dumb fet into the same gun and all you actually loose is a 3rnd burst option. Same thing applies to the G&G non etu models, You'll blow a fuse not a £40 part that requires opening the gearbox to replace.

If they got the fet right rather than trying to be clever then the G&G would be an easy recommendation for the whole range, but those ETU's are a killer. When for the same money you can have more gun and less problems.

My G&G is pre ETU. It's also not got a G&G gearbox, The original gearbox cracked so mine has been made up from random parts. It's also got the magnesium cast body, So it's almost as light as plastic. Those casts were and are a little bit lovely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Apologies for jumping in, but I've started worrying!
@IceniCould there be the same issues with the ARP9?
I'm running it as it came, on 11.1 15c lipos....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think this problem may be a little bit blown out of proportion, most of the research I did led me to people not using 11.1 which was causing the problems. 

 

I went for GC16 wildhog, but I bought from a reputable place that has decent warranty. They’ll even replace the ETU outside of warranty! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, E21A said:

I think this problem may be a little bit blown out of proportion, most of the research I did led me to people not using 11.1 which was causing the problems.



And there is the problem. If you use an 11.1 with a patrol base bought gun you have just waived your warranty. @Sitting Duck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Iceni said:



And there is the problem. If you use an 11.1 with a patrol base bought gun you have just waived your warranty. @Sitting Duck

 

Does make me laugh that. Shop I bought from said only run it on 11.1, and clearly due to the problems people have using lower voltage batteries, they don’t like/work with anything less. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Iceni said:



And there is the problem. If you use an 11.1 with a patrol base bought gun you have just waived your warranty. @Sitting Duck

 

But some of G&G's manuals actually say about using a 11.1v battery - think the Hog or Predator suggest it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, Sitting Duck said:

 

But some of G&G's manuals actually say about using a 11.1v battery - think the Hog or Predator suggest it

 

I’ll have a quick look at mine when I get home and confirm if you like? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It actually looks like they have added a new special instruction to the ETU models on patrol base.

@Sitting Duck you won.... You fucking won!
 

Quote

Special Instructions

Please ensure that when removing the Gearbox Quick Release Spring Screw a standard Allen Key is used, as using a Ball Type Allen Key Head will damage the nut. 

*Please note, that G&G will only warranty ETU G&G Rifles which use up to a maximum of a 15c Discharge LiPo, please use the recommended battery: GIANT POWER - 11.1V 1300mAh 15c LiPo Crane Stock Battery, to avoid voiding your warranty.



You can still blow them up if the C rating is too high.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Iceni said:

It actually looks like they have added a new special instruction to the ETU models on patrol base.

@Sitting Duck you won.... You fucking won!
 



You can still blow them up if the C rating is too high.

 

 

LOLs, I’m using a 30c as advised 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Iceni said:

It actually looks like they have added a new special instruction to the ETU models on patrol base.

@Sitting Duck you won.... You fucking won!
 



You can still blow them up if the C rating is too high.

 

 

SOME say 11.1v on either Hog or Predator - some like the original SRS said 7.4v or 9.6v

Think the new ARP says f*ck all about recommended battery - yeah that gives me assurance ???

 

Being G&G used all sorts of excuses about ETU problems, then saying there was a recall/replacement available

To which many retailers knew f*ck all about this ETU mosfet replacement issue

 

All confirmed G&G was winging it as they went along....

 

L4y57be.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, E21A said:

 

LOLs, I’m using a 30c as advised 

 

30c ??? getting a bit quick to me

 

15~20c is a bit lame, 20c min, 25c is what I tend use

but specs or stickers vary, the zest factor is a bit of myth or open for debate tbh

 

NORMALLY 25c about 2000mah is a decent-ish battery

others say a bigger battery say 3000mah provides a lot more punch than a 1200mah same 25c

well - maybe but I got a 1300mah 33c 11.1v and that f*cker has shredded more pistons taking the pi$$

than any other battery - think its output is way more than the label and the cells are well out of balance

 

Any battery you get for your mobile from China say is often half the rating written on the outside

so tbh take "some" of these specs written on outside as only a ROUGH guide to its real performance

(I trust little of manufactures claims but most decent makes hold kinda true to their spec)

 

The main issue with ramping up the juice is the stock motor inside

 

G&G use 3 main types

 

Grey 18k std lame motor in my old FFR A2

Blue powerful 24k motor in some others CM18, FireHawk, some older TopTech's etc...

Orange Ifrit 25k neodym motor

 

Depending on motor inside will dictate just how fast the guns cycles and the risks

 

If using a 11.1v 30c LiPo with the Orange Ifrit then you are likely to hitting say 24~26rps I'd guess

at around 24rps many guns will overspin a fair bit and risk double firing

Though ETU might help kill the cycle a smidge sooner, the cycling is a bit quick for a UK stock spec gun

 

Remember Krytac had to install a 20k motor but some grey/gray imports had the 30k motor

with a M95/100 spring on a 30k motor - throw in a 11.1v some guns wrecked themselves coz was too quick

fine if you have a US 390/400fps gun on m120 on 11.1v

But a 340fps going nutz PME could take place and stuff starts to break

 

So we normally go with a reasonable 18~23rps as a nice safe rof for UK guns

unless you do the work of Short Stroking or running a slightly slower torque motor to ease up on rof

normally nudging twenties is plenty

 

going higher than mid twenties on a stock gun is pushing it or increasing risk of PME

redo the box and yeah mid 30's is achievable

but if G&G are still using their stock black plastic single tooth piston - I'd be inclined to go easy on da juice/burst

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Piston is also covered under sharps warranty for 6 months too 

 

Thinkjng I may drop down to 25c as there seems to be more choice, only 30c I can find that’ll fit is a Nuprol 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Iceni said:



And there is the problem. If you use an 11.1 with a patrol base bought gun you have just waived your warranty. @Sitting Duck

The only reference is to anything over 15C - They say that G&G guns with ETU will not be warranted with any lipo over 15C
They actually recommend the 11.1 in the information for the ARP9.

Screen Shot 2018-06-10 at 08.22.41.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×