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Back in the days before lipos became the battery of choice....?


emilianoksa
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Back when NiMH was king the guns allowed for the bigger batteries, you didn't have the skeleton stocks and buffer tube batteries back then.

 

The best example of a small battery is the AK stick type you'd have in an AK47s or MP5K.

 

Back in the old days, some 16 years ago, guns with full stocks and large forgrips where all the rage.

Plenty of weedy looking kids struggling with M16A2s and G3 SG1s, mostly for the large battery and the "long barrel = better range" myth.

 

Simpler times, but not better :)

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1 hour ago, emilianoksa said:

..... how many aegs would actually fit a 9.4 battery?

 

Looking at the battery space available on most popular guns, I get the impression that there were relatively few.

 

 

9.6v  btw not 9.4v

 

Think you are getting confused as the ones we used to use are the thinner 18mm diameter "airsoft" cells

and 9.6v is often created as 2 x sticks each containing 4 cells (4.8v) which make two equal legs total 9.6v

(as opposed to say a long & short 4+3 cells on 8.4v say)

The above is crane or nunchuk type batteries found in crane stocks

 

Or as a single block - well depends on gun as long as you are referring to the thinner 18mm diameter cells

 

The larger diameter cells were like 24-25mm diameter and you would need to have a lot of room or fixed stock

Often the "chunkier" 24mm diameter 9.6v's came with the larger Tamiya connector than the small tamiya

BUT not always

Plus to make it even more confusing - the Larger & Smaller Tamiya connectors have the orientation reversed

WTF - yup on small tamiya the Red wire is the Round pin

BUT on large tamiya the Red wire is the SQUARE pin

(or is it the other way round - nah pretty sure red is round on small tamiya)

 

Pic showing red is round on small tamiya

hard to see but black is round on the larger tamiya......

 

Image result for LARGE TAMIYA SMALL TAMIYA

 

This is why some converters say XT60 to tamiya/small tamiya can sometimes have the polarity ar$e about face

(especially if you buy cheap adapters from China/fleabay)

Luckily decent places like component shop should sell the correct polarity adapters (me thinks)

but no biggy anyway, a small pin and you can unpick the pins and reverse them to correct polarity if needed

 

Put this wrong polarity in ya gun and it "should" lock as it will/should be stopped by AR Latch trying to go in reverse

ERGH - really when using adapters - even your own DIY ones, just check red to red & black to black etc.....

 

As for the larger fat mofo batteries of ye olde RC 24mm diameter usig large tamiya in AEG's....

certain M4's and say AK's with battery in a fixed stock should be OK

but not crane stock or certain guns like numerous front wired ones perhaps

(just once again check polarity if using adapters & stuff)

 

All I can say is.....

 

THANK FUCK FOR LIPO's & DEANS

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1 hour ago, Sitting Duck said:

THANK FUCK FOR LIPO's & DEANS

 

i think this is the most true thing that's ever been written on the internet, ever....

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Pretty easily - stick or nunchuck 9.6v batteries.

 

Most guns had space for them. For example my AK had space in the dust cover or the stock. I'd imagine m4s would have handguard or stock space. I know for a fact that g36s have plentiful space in their handguards for massive 9.6vs. MP5s too.

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15 minutes ago, AK47frizzle said:

I'd imagine m4s would have handguard or stock space


My M4 is a prime example of a massive front handguard. You can fit an absolute whale of a battery in there. The 9.6 nunchucks  go in with room to spare.

Added to that I got rid of the wire stock and run it with an AR style solid stock (one of the old style ones that have full capacity) I have been tempted many times to get a 4500+Mah battery for it. Probably one of these if I do it.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-4500mah-65c-continuous-discharge-hardcase-lipo-battery.html

One day I'll actually finish rebuilding it!

aeg-ak-gr300L.jpg

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36 minutes ago, Iceni said:


My M4 is a prime example of a massive front handguard. You can fit an absolute whale of a battery in there. The 9.6 nunchucks  go in with room to spare......
 

 

Yeah - hold my beer/charger.......

 

Image result for big duracell lorry

 

:D

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7 hours ago, AK47frizzle said:

 g36s have plentiful space in their handguards for massive 9.6vs.

 

Depends which one.  My G36C (the ickle one with 2 slots on the handguard) is pretty tight for length.

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3 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

 

Depends which one.  My G36C (the ickle one with 2 slots on the handguard) is pretty tight for length.

 

Stock battery.....

 

104mm length "maybe" up to about 120mm at a push

34mm width - maybe 35mm
17mm height/thickness, but rounded at end
(this just fits in a loop/leg of about 15.5mm due to round edge)

 

SHOULD be able to nudge it up to a tiny bit more
BUT it is the thickness that is the real thing to watch @ 17mm - you don't want a LiPo going too puffy
but could remove the bottom of " L " I guess to squeeze a bit more

 

The only POSSIBLE 11.1v might be something like:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-1500mah-3s-35c-lipo-pack.html
but is 18mm thick, so can't get puffy
£11:54 OK capacity, 35c so packs some snap & is 108x34x18
(again watch the thickness for puffing)

 

other POSSIBLE 7.4v's....

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rhino-2150mah-2s-7-4v-25c-lipoly-pack.html
£5:16 ffs and should fit no problem @ 105x34x16

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-flightmax-2200mah-2s1p-40c.html
£6:36 for a 2200mah 40c LiPo jeez but is 105x35x18 so watch puffing

 

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-2200mah-2s-35c-lipo-pack.html
£7:94 a smidge longer than stock but should be OK @ 111x35x15


https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-2200mah-2s-25c-lipo-pack.html
£8:86 - this 25c is more expensive than the 35c version but might fit better
as dimensions are: 104x35x14

 

So really best bang for buck could be 7.4v Rhino one at just over a fiver perhaps ???

A right BARGAIN !!!!!!!

 

Image result for bargain david dickinson meme

 

NB: Owners responsibility to double check crap before ordering

do not flame me if any listed don't quite fit in your gun

I'm just stating the data dimensions on HobbyKing

 

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Me and my team mates have all moved on now from 7.4v LiPo to 9.9v LiFe batts a very nice compromise between 7&11’s . 

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25 minutes ago, ak2m4 said:

NIMH Pahhh..........NiCad!

 

tumblr_mqbbjvzfFA1szscoro1_500.gif

 

 

I really do need a nice thin battery with power as mine barely fits inside my MOE grip.

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17 hours ago, Iceni said:


My M4 is a prime example of a massive front handguard. You can fit an absolute whale of a battery in there. The 9.6 nunchucks  go in with room to spare.

Added to that I got rid of the wire stock and run it with an AR style solid stock (one of the old style ones that have full capacity) I have been tempted many times to get a 4500+Mah battery for it. Probably one of these if I do it.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/11-1v-4500mah-65c-continuous-discharge-hardcase-lipo-battery.html

One day I'll actually finish rebuilding it!

aeg-ak-gr300L.jpg

 

WHAT!! you actually got rid of the stock, that's the coolest part.  I purchased a G&G LR300S when they first came out (2003 I think), still got it.  I remember it breaking after it's very game, ohhh g&g

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Well I've watched a lot of videos and not yet seen a 9.6 under the dust cover on an AK.

 

What make is your AK?

11 hours ago, Druid799 said:

Me and my team mates have all moved on now from 7.4v LiPo to 9.9v LiFe batts a very nice compromise between 7&11’s . 

 

Why aren't the LiFe batteries more popular? I've googled them and they look fine for airsoft. Not as volatile as lipos .

 

Why do most people buy lipos?

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36 minutes ago, emilianoksa said:

Well I've watched a lot of videos and not yet seen a 9.6 under the dust cover on an AK.

 

What make is your AK?

 

Why aren't the LiFe batteries more popular? I've googled them and they look fine for airsoft. Not as volatile as lipos .

 

Why do most people buy lipos?

 

probably a combo of lipo's being the more established technology, and for a new-start if you're going to buy the gear to run a life then it'll also do lipo safely too at which point there's not really anything performance wise between them.

 

plus i've not yet seen much in the way of life batteries in odd form factors either, all chunky stuff.

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1 hour ago, emilianoksa said:

Well I've watched a lot of videos and not yet seen a 9.6 under the dust cover on an AK.

 

What make is your AK?

 

Why aren't the LiFe batteries more popular? I've googled them and they look fine for airsoft. Not as volatile as lipos .

 

Why do most people buy lipos?

 

Price - range & availability - size/weight also perhaps ???

 

Different charge settings - if you don't use LiFe charge settings but still use LiPo setting you will f*ck them up

LiFe cells are 3.3v so max charge is 3.8v

LiPo cells are 3.7v somax charge is 4.2v

use a B3 charger that has a LiFe balance port/switch or adjust LiPo setting to LiFe or custom setting on B6

 

imho - LiFe's do offer more zest as a bridge between 7.4v & 11.1v in STOCK GUNS

but when you tweak or beef up a gun the difference over a 7.4v seems to lower & almost vanish ???

I think the reality is that LiFe's do not actually the exact same real raw grunt like a good LiPo on a higher amp/stress build

 

Don't forget 7.4v's will match if not pi$$ over a 8.4v

and a GOOD 25c 2000mah upwards 7.4v LiPo will come close if not match a 9.6v nimah

and when people show off their mental builds it is LiPo's they plug in not nimah's or LiFe's

Which imho - and it is just my opinion I feel the LiFe's seem to lack the real raw grunt that good LiPo's can provide on high demand

 

Which can be backed up by this favourite clip of mine about the explosive raw power of LiPo's.....

 

 

 

DON'T DO STUPID $HIT LIKE THIS CHAPS !!!!!

 

I'm now looking into refitting my guns with the flux capacitor instead though.....

 

tumblr_lztc32rfRX1ql15uko1_500.gif

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From the point of view of a convert I think LiFe are much better than LiPo , biggest plus you can’t kill it like you can a LiPo by running it down and as someone who pretty much runs semi all the time , an on paper lower delivery batt more than lasts long enough for me , last game I was at one felt a bit sluggish so I checked the battery log (all my batts are Numbered so I can keep track of there charging and use) I hadn’t charged it in nearly 5mths and my self and my two sons play once a mth ! .

As to the other points , there’s more and more shapes coming on too the market now so that’s a big help , I can get a ‘stick’ type one under the top cover of my AK and a split cell in the front of my TM recoil 74su (now THAT one gives me a big smile running on a LiFe ! 🤣)   

Charging ? Just change the settings on the charger , not rocket surgery ! 😉 

Power delivery ? all my guns are stock I don’t buy in to the whole “must up-grade for faster trigger response ! Must up-grade for Blah blah blah” does that point what ever of a nano second that the gun responds to your sweaty little digit really make THAT much of a difference wether you hit the other player or he gets you ?  I’ve always been of the opinion it’s the ‘meat popsicle’ holding the gun not the gun that’s the defining factor ? Any hoo I digress , most of the players I’ve come across who do really enjoy  up-grading there guns seam to stick a mosfet in as standard and on the whole run them on 11’s  so bit of a moot point . 

Me ? I’m sold on them as are all my team mates .👍

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Thanks for the explanation Druid.

 

I think I am going to give them a try.

 

So I will need a LiFE capable charger. I assume the IMAX B6 AC v2 would be a good choice.

 

I think Vapex makes a LiFe stick battery that will probably  fit my AK.

 

If I ever get it.

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1 hour ago, Druid799 said:

..... snip

 

Me ? I’m sold on them as are all my team mates .👍

 

I'm not knocking them but pointing out stuff to the question why are they not more popular.....

 

First I bought LiFe's for the FireHawk, didn't fit in stock buffer tube but managed to fit a thinner buffer tube

then fit the short square 9.9v stick on the FH - think it was an old SRC buffer tube but deffo thinner walls

and yes offered more juice than the 7.4v stick LiPo's.....

 

I said they offer more zest in STOCK GUNS but on tweaked guns the difference seems to lower/vanish

THIS is important to point out as if the potential owner finds this out for themselves IF they tweak their guns

Then they might be a bit miffed as to where's my missing zest gone ????

 

The charge settings I pointed out as if new owner chargers them on LiPo settings the can damage them

or affect the cell capacity/balancing across the 3 x 3.3v cells

of course it is easy to change or use B3 with LiFe switch/setting if you can't alter the B6

but as people have come from nimah's where you just plug in 7.2/8.4/9.6/10.8v and switch on smart charger

or a B3 where you just plug in balance lead and it trickle charges it without any settings.....

Well they might not be fully aware about settings - which is important on the different LiPo-LiFe battery charging

 

As for UPGRADE bit - yes I agree it is the player not the gun that wins the game - very often I have said that

Plus after all the go faster stripes and breaking stuff loads I often will say & apply - Twenties is plenty

(no more ultra crazy rof crap)

 

However by using a higher 9.9v over a 7.4v - isn't that also an UPGRADE in voltage terms rps/response ???

If people change motors/gears/juice then that is their choice I guess

Most UPGRADES are often not really needed - often if not careful you can make matters worse

(I know only too well and try to advise people where they might have gone wrong as I MYSELF have done that)

 

Personally if you get a gun at say 18rps to about mid twenties 24rps say then leave it there 

at 18+ imho the gun cycles that bit better that the chances of you releasing trigger too early on semi spamming

so less likely the get COL half raised or stuck in "dead zone" - just my feelings on speed response of a gun

 

HOW this achieved is up to OP and what is inside the gun already

 

eg: slow 12rps stock but maybe a mosfet inside - use 11.1v will get say 19rps

7.4v to 11.1v will give you aprox 55% boost over 7.4v - don't ask but it is often a smidge more than 50%

the extra cell is a boost to an already cycling gun or first 3.7v gets gun moving, 2nd cell boosts it and 3rd boosts further

Gun examples might be G&G ETU's or Krytac's with a 20k motor producing meeehhhhh results on 7.4v

 

some guns have better near balanced motors in there and might shoot say 15rps out of box

example ICS motors seem quite snappy for stock guns/motors

so in this case a 9.9v LiFe might fit the bill just right

 

Some guns like the G&G ETU or even Evo might need to run on 11.1v for best results

 

I have my own reasons for altering stuff also - mainly some guns are so badly assembled or use crap parts

usually cheapo budget guns - I still haven't taken apart some guns like Hef's old Krytac or the TopTech FH

(I might be daft but I ain't that stupid - if it ain't broke etc.....)

Cheapo guns often have $hit gears that run rough and shimmed badly - yes Cyma your gears are crap ffs

(JG are much smoother & mesh better)

Cyma your f*cking motor is pants 28tpa with weak ferrite magnets - just stop using this motor it's useless

Other qwirky crap I can live with but could do without scrapping waspy gears & pi$$ poor motors often

(yes I can use more juice, but 7.4v are cheaper & smaller space - plus got loads of 7.4v's than 11.1v's/9.9v's)

 

Yes they can chuck in say a 18tpa motor, but not all stock bevels mesh nicely with most pinions

YES Cyma - your #1 bevel is f*cking $hit AGAIN, so it will sound a bit rough plopping a better motor on some guns

(Cyma pinion is OK - it is their bevel that is the real problem - it's cut at a w@nky angle to mesh badly with pinions)

 

Plus I can rip stuff apart and screw up if I choose and advise people of findings or warn them of risks of messing up

 

Use what battery or juice you like 7.4v 9.9v or 11.1v - heck stay with 9.6v or 10.8v if they want

just pointing out the differences, range/costs, charge settings etc....

and technically increasing the voltage is in effect UPGRADING or boosting the voltage/juice or speed of gun(s)

 

 

 

 

 

55 minutes ago, emilianoksa said:

 

So I will need a LiFE capable charger. I assume the IMAX B6 AC v2 would be a good choice.

 

 

You alter the actual LiPo settings on B6 or setup a custom one

but think I have to alter the LiPo settings on my B6 (clone) to alter voltage etc...

tried once or twice to set up a custom setting but just seemed to set up a custom 2200mah 2 cell LiPo setting

didn't allow me to save the voltage from 3.7v (4.2v actual limit) to 3.3v (3.8v actual limit) until I edited the LiPo volts

Well when I messed about trying to charge a Life - that is what I did, then changed the volts back for LiPo's when done

admit I never RTFM properly, maybe there is a way to properly set up a custom setting fully on a gen B6

(mine is a clone - yes we should use genuine B6's as they are known to be much greater tolerance no overcharging risk)

 

Or buy a B3 with LiFe balance port/switch - nah get a B6 (ergh genuine one I should say)

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Not having a pop or anything , actually agree with most of Your points mate .

I’m just speaking from the point of view of someone who’s been playing for years but buys the best stock guns I can and does absolutely F*** all upgrading bar changing to a deans connector and on the odd occasion change the hop rubber , just can’t arsed with it ! 😉

so im sure you can appreciate form my point of view there a big step for my game . 

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Absolutely - like I said I haven't touched the stuff that works really well out of box

 

if people can afford a good decent gun then they really should buy it and tweak less and play more

if people are on budget then use it until it really needs a tweak/service or something busts

 

Even so-so guns that have meehhhh response and not so great accuracy/groupings can still be effective

a good player can use a basic gun or even a springer if they feel up for a challenge, move in with stealth

then engage in closer proximity taking out others with much superior peew peew's

(seen a couple of HPA geardo's disappear at lunch time coz they got owned by a spotty 13 year old JBBG player)

 

Buy what you like, use what you like - it is just a toy gun and big kids refusing to grow up

 

Just offering my opinon/point of view, I often stick on just 7.4v or chuck in a 11.1v if really slow 11rps on 7.4v

but use what ever battery you like and what works best for gun and you

 

LiFe's last way longer, safer and maybe they might catch on in years to come

Also think manufacturers really really need to apply better design/layout/thoughts as to what battery space is in their guns

Some guns are just way too titchy to leave a really small amount of room for low capacity or just 2 cell power packs

Numerous guns look lovely & compact with sexy stock but ffs can be a nightmare to change batteries and shoe horn it in

 

Ignore me - I'm always moaning about something or taking the pi$$ if I've eaten the kids M&M's

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On 5/18/2018 at 9:35 AM, Rogerborg said:

 

Depends which one.  My G36C (the ickle one with 2 slots on the handguard) is pretty tight for length.

I used rental ones for a while and they had and still have massive space for 9.6s.

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