Supporters Lozart Posted May 15, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 15, 2018 45 minutes ago, Rogerborg said: Oh, your code had lines did it? Luxury! Well, when I say lines it were more of a series of 1s and 0s in t'road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 15, 2018 Author Share Posted May 15, 2018 1 hour ago, Rogerborg said: Oh, your code had lines did it? Luxury! I found C harder to follow than Assember for that reason, but never had to use them in anger after learning them at Uni. It was so long ago, all I can remember is mov AX,BX and a few other bits and pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted May 15, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 15, 2018 3 hours ago, ImTriggerHappy said: Fuck me a my code is bigger than your code standoff lol On a forum about toy guns too, i think we might just have reached peak nerd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Lozart Posted May 15, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 15, 2018 23 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said: On a forum about toy guns too, i think we might just have reached peak nerd. You say that like it's a bad thing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted May 15, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 15, 2018 32 minutes ago, Lozart said: You say that like it's a bad thing... Touche sir, touche... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Rogerborg Posted May 15, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 15, 2018 On 5/15/2018 at 2:04 PM, Lozart said: Well, when I say lines it were more of a series of 1s and 0s in t'road. Ones? You 'ad ones? We 'ad zeros, and damn glad of it, then when we came 'ome from code pit, dad would thrash us to sleep wi' 'is bootstrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 17, 2018 Author Share Posted May 17, 2018 The oh shit moment when you realise the soldering iron won't work, even though it was fine last week.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted May 17, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 17, 2018 14 minutes ago, MisterG said: The oh shit moment when you realise the soldering iron won't work, even though it was fine last week.... More like.... The moment you realise - $HIT which wire was positive/negative unless there is a thin red line I can't see in pic also each wire should ideally have its own tube if possible (just in case a wire comes adrift and touches other terminal or something) FUSE - plug socket/extension lead ??? unusual for irons to just blow like that I've given my cheapo one loads of abuse..... (keep telling it how crap it is and I'm going to replace it with a Weller - I have had it in tears at times) Forgot I had the thing still on and been roasting away trying to cook a Sunday dinner - oops Tip is a bit curved and stubby - sod it take it out, file it down to a point some more still keeps on chugging away - well I bought two cheap solder kits from RS or somewhere over 10 years ago and the things keep going though not used every day, but have done many console & other stuff before peew peew check all fuses/wires - ergh and your polarity if you get the iron working again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 17, 2018 Author Share Posted May 17, 2018 1 minute ago, Sitting Duck said: More like.... The moment you realise - $HIT which wire was positive/negative unless there is a thin red line I can't see in pic +ve goes into the front of the gear box, I made sure I knew as both wires are silver, 😉 no red line 1 minute ago, Sitting Duck said: also each wire should ideally have its own tube if possible (just in case a wire comes adrift and touches other terminal or something) - They will, the long black tube was there already, was going to put the individual shrink tube on after tinning the wires 1 minute ago, Sitting Duck said: FUSE - plug socket/extension lead ??? - Tried all those before I gave up, just ordered a new one, old one was a cheap silverline one from years ago check all fuses/wires - ergh and your polarity if you get the iron working again. Was tempted to take it apart, but ran out of time and a new one with loads of accessories was £15 from Amazon Prime delivered tomorrow. I've got a 25 year old one in the garage, but it is very rusty and has a huge tip, which I couldn't remove last time I tried to use it, hence the Silverline. Fortunately not planning to play this weekend. Was a bit frustrating, had an hour free so thought I would get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted May 17, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 17, 2018 1 minute ago, MisterG said: - They will, the long black tube was there already, was going to put the individual shrink tube on after tinning the wires Was tempted to take it apart, but ran out of time and a new one with loads of accessories was £15 from Amazon Prime delivered tomorrow. I've got a 25 year old one in the garage, but it is very rusty and has a huge tip, which I couldn't remove last time I tried to use it, hence the Silverline. Fortunately not planning to play this weekend. Was a bit frustrating, had an hour free so thought I would get it done. F*ck it - that old 25 year one is likely an arc welder so ideal for doing deans my 20/25w one is great for consoles, wiring to switch & making up 3034 mosfets but does struggles a little bit doing 15awg onto deans (yeah it is in between 16 & 14 awg) and a bit more on thicker silicon wire on LiPo batteries to deans - think some might be 12awg probably should get say a 35/40w but I get by (just - but really should look out for a cheap beefier one) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 17, 2018 Author Share Posted May 17, 2018 The new one I got is 60w https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06Y5HVCMG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hopefully will be up to the job. I probably solder once every couple years, though might be more frequent with Airsoft 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted May 17, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 17, 2018 24 minutes ago, MisterG said: The new one I got is 60w https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06Y5HVCMG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Hopefully will be up to the job. I probably solder once every couple years, though might be more frequent with Airsoft 🙂 f*ck me that is a good find there.... I'd be happy with that kit for most stuff fine tip & low heat for intricate work larger tip & turn up the heat for deans etc.... yeah I'd be pleased with that - though maybe not quite as pleased as this guy..... only minor gripe - could have chucked in some flux or flux pen - but good kit all the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albiscuit Posted May 18, 2018 Share Posted May 18, 2018 This thread has got me thinking I should swap out my new guns and batteries to deans now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Adolf Hamster Posted May 18, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 18, 2018 20 minutes ago, Albiscuit said: This thread has got me thinking I should swap out my new guns and batteries to deans now... Yes, yes you should, i do it to every new gun and battery before i even use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Druid799 Posted May 18, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 18, 2018 21 minutes ago, Albiscuit said: This thread has got me thinking I should swap out my new guns and batteries to deans now... YES do it ! Tamiya’s are just so inefficient compared to basically all the other connector systems out there but yea go with deans as that’s basically the standard that everyone uses . 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 New soldering Iron arrived, I'll be doing my G36C this weekend. But won't be going near the Evo until I'm 100% happy with the G36C. Cheers G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Rogerborg Posted May 19, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 19, 2018 Mmm, I haven't done my G36C yet out of an abundance of caution in case it develops problems and needs to go back. However, compared to my other AEGs with Deans, it does sound like it's struggling a bit. Since all my batteries are Deans now, I'm having to run it with a mini-Tamiya -> Deans converter, which is likely just making it worse. I really should just give it the snip, but... it's my only pristine gun. [fret, fret] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 Just did mine, does sound louder and more powerful, but might be mis-remembering it. Certainly sounds more powerful than the Evo from the sound of the BBs hitting the target, and is a lot louder, but that could be normal. I intentionally shortened the wires, makes it much easier to fit the hand guard back on Cheers G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Druid799 Posted May 21, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 21, 2018 On 5/19/2018 at 2:41 PM, MisterG said: Just did mine, does sound louder and more powerful, but might be mis-remembering it. Certainly sounds more powerful than the Evo from the sound of the BBs hitting the target, and is a lot louder, but that could be normal. I intentionally shortened the wires, makes it much easier to fit the hand guard back on Cheers G Wait till you start running it on LiPo/LiFe batts you’ll see even more of an improvement! 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted May 21, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 21, 2018 On 5/19/2018 at 2:41 PM, MisterG said: Just did mine, does sound louder and more powerful, but might be mis-remembering it. Certainly sounds more powerful than the Evo from the sound of the BBs hitting the target, and is a lot louder, but that could be normal. I intentionally shortened the wires, makes it much easier to fit the hand guard back on Cheers G No fuse ??? I like to live dangerously too, but we recommend a fuse to others just in case If you chopped out fuse, that would have maybe helped a smidge more snap too (less resistance/choke point) But unless people like to take risks, a fuse should be fitted/kept but I also sometimes walk on the cracks in the pavement when I'm feeling daring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 7 hours ago, Sitting Duck said: No fuse ??? I like to live dangerously too, but we recommend a fuse to others just in case If you chopped out fuse, that would have maybe helped a smidge more snap too (less resistance/choke point) But unless people like to take risks, a fuse should be fitted/kept but I also sometimes walk on the cracks in the pavement when I'm feeling daring I bought it used, and there wasn't any fuse and was told there never was a fuse when I queried it. My G36C is by Ares/Umarex. From a bit of googling: No, not all gun have a fuse. This one does not. There are plenty of guns on the market without fuses. Ares is one of the companies that does not use a fuse assembly. They also employ a different switch design using a micro switch. So do I need one? If so, I'll need to do some research to see where a fuse should go. ALso, if I installed a mosfet does it mean a fuse is no longer needed? Cheers G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted May 22, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 22, 2018 If you have a large amount of common sense AND your wiring throughout is very sound - no crushed wires, no exposed insulation or no risk of shorting say at motor from metal motor plate on v2's or motor frame/cage on v3's (basically if you have rewired or checked the whole loom over to be rock solid & insulated) Then the likely risk of any shorts is greatly greatly reduced The sense part is if it looks/appears dodgy don't use gun/battery until investigated or gun has bb jammed - I will keep firing or gun has totally locked up solid - let's hold down the trigger - ergh no, best not for unwise out there There would be no fuse to protect the whole loom - motor - lipo heating up or shorting out In this case a fuse would deffo be required as well as a brain wired up correctly perhaps Some - but not all mosfets have a thermal cut-out that trips like a fuse blowing at higher amps BUT not all mosfets come with this protection as standard IF you wish to fit a fuse the the mini blade tpes are best spliced into the positive wire near battery likely a 20/25amp mini blade than a chunky cartridge fuse.... For those who are sad & desperate to squeeze every last possible drop of potential in their build They will often drop the fuse and install extra caution & common sense (hopefully) But it is not something I would publicly recommend on this forum for fear of comeback - you said........ A case of do as I say, than do as I do if you like The final decision for installing or keeping a fuse rest solely with owner though we as a collective recommend a fuse should be kept & perhaps installed - just in case Know this - If there is a bad short in your gun.... it will continue to short circuit until it blows the circuit/battery or until you pull the power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Druid799 Posted May 22, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 22, 2018 As Duck says they are there for a reason , and a very good reason it is . All I would say though to balance the argument is I’ve always taken the fuse out of all my guns (as do the rest of my team mates) and in 19yrs never had an issue with any of them EVER . 32 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said: For those who are sad & desperate to squeeze every last possible drop of potential in their build They will often drop the fuse and install extra caution & common sense (hopefully) bit harsh mate , more than a few level headed players do this as standard to new guns . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterG Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share Posted May 22, 2018 33 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said: If you have a large amount of common sense Usually yes, but in the heat of battle with 5 guys running at you, who knows 😉 33 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said: AND your wiring throughout is very sound - no crushed wires, no exposed insulation or no risk of shorting say at motor from metal motor plate on v2's or motor frame/cage on v3's (basically if you have rewired or checked the whole loom over to be rock solid & insulated) Double and triple insulated for the bits I changed, as per the pic. I'll do a bit more research, as this gun never had one in the first place. Cheers G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted May 22, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 22, 2018 7 minutes ago, Druid799 said: As Duck says they are there for a reason , and a very good reason it is . All I would say though to balance the argument is I’ve always taken the fuse out of all my guns (as do the rest of my team mates) and in 19yrs never had an issue with any of them EVER . bit harsh mate , more than a few level headed players do this as standard to new guns . Not harsh at all - I run no fuse in all guns I have redone BUT there is a risk none the less.... If you got a lipo shorting out - unlikely if you checked & trust stuff inside but IF a lipo gun is shorting out it will continue to short until something blows The fuse is a choke point perhaps robbing you of say 1~2 rps on a blade fuse and a smidge response BUT it is a safety fall back point - often it may not trip asap to save some damage occurring but still If a person is that desperate to obtain the extra snap over a safety feature - then yes I will say sad & desperate especially on a public forum as I will not preach or promote removal of fuses to anybody viewing this thread hence the term do as I say, not do as I do f*ck it I'll buy/bought B6 clones, they may not be exactly 101% legit/stable as a genuine B6 but in reality loads of $hitty B3's from well known makes - cough cough Nuprol cough cough & others are $hit Will I promote clone B6's - well except this thread where I speak honestly about my preference/choices no I won't promote a clone B6, still say get a genuine B6 from a reputable retailer - though some clones are hard to tell Now if you use say a Gate Nano mosfet - SOME Gate's have a thermal fuse But some do not - especially the Pico & very basic mosfets out there But if using SOME of the Nano mosfets you will have a thermal fuse so no positive fuse req We have fuses in nearly all things electrical - though to be fair in household ye old 3, 5, 13 amp fuses rarely blow the Miniature Circuit Breaker normally trips first and/or a bulb goes and trips out the whole lighting circuit Or if a neutral to earth leak is detected the main Residual Current Device trips and everything it protects is turned off (freezers then defrost whilst you are holiday in Spain - nice, hence a split load consumer unit is the norm) Don't get me wrong - I run with no fuse as I said I could use a lame excuse that it is space saving not having a fuse but yeah it is mostly coz I'm sad & desperate trying squeeze out max possible performance if I'm honest But it is my gun, my risk - though I will still not promote others remove fuses as I explained 23 minutes ago, MisterG said: Usually yes, but in the heat of battle with 5 guys running at you, who knows 😉 Double and triple insulated for the bits I changed, as per the pic. I'll do a bit more research, as this gun never had one in the first place. Cheers G If in the rare possible instance that sparks should fly..... how quick can you get to the battery to yank it out ??? if you got something like the f*ck about L85 handguard that is fiddly as f*ck even without gloves on then out in field with $hit coming at you and your gun now having a major paddy paddy hissy fit and you wearing gloves then maybe on stuff like fiddly f*cker guns to say $hit I can't open it - it's smoking..... Yeah maybe THAT gun should have had a fuse If you can rip out the battery easily - should the rare need arise - well OK if you know your gun and have some sense then maybe you will be fine without a fuse THAT is my thought on the matter - but still the owners call in the end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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