Supporters Lozart Posted May 14, 2018 Supporters Share Posted May 14, 2018 35 minutes ago, emilianoksa said: I like the JG G36c. It's a nice little gun and excellent value for money. If they sold their Commander directly to the public, it would probably be a lot cheaper than the 200 quid ASG are asking. You mean the CO2 pistol? Or am I missing something (I usually am). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted May 14, 2018 Share Posted May 14, 2018 1 hour ago, emilianoksa said: If they sold their Commander directly to the public, it would probably be a lot cheaper than the 200 quid ASG are asking. That snow wolf I posted way back is exactly that @emilianoksa It's the JG gun. No battery, No fancy foregrip (it has a cheap variant), And no Steyr trades.https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215959-SW-020T-Carbine-Replica-Tan.html The ASG current model is actually APS not JG. It can be spotted by the raised areas on the pistol grip and body. Other ASG models are JG but it is not uncommon for ASG to cherry pick on contracts. ASG could in the future swap production to JG. Internally like I already posted almost identical, but APS use crap piston heads that need replacing due to the design. They work, but will also damage the o-ring, and are not as solid as the JG ones. Not a problem if you plan to upgrade to silent off the bat, but the JG model is the slightly better stock gun even with the possibility of plastic bushings. It's just an upgrade path, JG it's going to be the bushing that need replacing, and you may as well do the heads at the same time, APS it's going to be the O-ring/Piston seal and you may as well do the silent heads at the same time. I would put more faith in the plastic bushings outlasting a nipped O-ring so the JG is the better stock variant. You can see the APS piston head problems in the stock evike images! Look at the sealing edge of the piston, you can see an injection point on the sealing face, meaning the O-ring gets crushed more there and into the sharp injection point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emilianoksa Posted May 15, 2018 Share Posted May 15, 2018 Thanks for pointing all that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mostly Retired Moderators L3wisD Posted May 15, 2018 Mostly Retired Moderators Share Posted May 15, 2018 13 hours ago, Iceni said: That snow wolf I posted way back is exactly that @emilianoksa It's the JG gun. No battery, No fancy foregrip (it has a cheap variant), And no Steyr trades.https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215959-SW-020T-Carbine-Replica-Tan.html Oooh, that's handy to know. How usable out of the box would that be? Or is it a case of bushings and head right away? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceni Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 12 hours ago, L3wisD said: How usable out of the box would that be? Or is it a case of bushings and head right away? Impossible question to answer. Both of mine have been good out of the box. The range was decent, the accuracy wasn't too bad either. One of them had a fuse issue where a 7.4 lipo would make the fuse glow red hot without blowing that was causing significant slow down. A new fuse sorted it. The plastic bushings are only as good as the parts they have to work with. Perfect gears well shimmed and lubed they can last a long time, Gears with the odd burr, no grease, badly shimmed they will have a significantly shorter life. I would expect at least a year out of them, The gun is certainly not going to have problems in the short term because the bushings are plastic. Personally I would do them in the first few shoots of having the gun, not because they will have significant wear in that time period, but because the spring twanging, and piston slapping would be doing my head in after a few games with it! So they would get done as a side effect of removing the piston slap. Gearbox is open for one problem you may as well spend the £ and get the bushings and shimming done at the same time. The motor can be done any time, as too can the wires/mosfet because that can all be done without opening the gearbox. The hops are good. They don't need upgrading at all, They lift well, and don't wander provided the ring and ring seat is clean and free of grease. Building them is different to an M4 unit, the bucking is cut, and the brass ring goes in touching the bucking rather than after the C clip. The brass ring in deep is important as if you put it at the end of the hop like normal it can stop the hop moving fully out as there are 2 screws that will catch it. The 2 screws that attach the hop to the outer need to sit in the 2 slots on the hop without touching the inner barrel so the unit can freely move on the spring. Elongating those slots if needed and stretching the hop main spring has 2 effects, better seal to the gearbox, And a tighter body pin, It's a 2 minute fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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