brj92 Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 To anyone who know about a rear wired KWA RM4 Ronin I need some assistance with breaking it down correctly as I have not done so before any advice or a contact to anyone who can help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys and gals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Head Moderator Jedi_Master Posted March 31, 2018 Head Moderator Share Posted March 31, 2018 Moved to Advice & Technical Help section. There should be someone who can help. @Sitting Duck possibly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Sitting Duck Posted March 31, 2018 Supporters Share Posted March 31, 2018 Not up to speed on KWA and their fancy adjustable fps stuff/gimmicks But WHAT is the problem or WHY do you need to strip down a decent gun ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katana Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 I took apart my one last night and put it back together, what are you getting stuck on? Use some needle nose pliers and poke it into the end of the buffer tube holes diagonally and twist to loosen it off and open it. Take out everything inside all the way up to the spring inside the gearbox. Then unscrew bottom of the buffer tube rail holding the wiring and unclip the connectors near the castle nut. You do not need to take the whole buffer tube off. Unscrew the pistol grip as normal. Leave the mag release in and leave the bolt catch in, you do not need to take these out. To split the receivers, pop the front pin and pull the charging handle slightly. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE FAKE BOLT AS IT IS MADE OF CHEESE and the dust cover usually snags on the front body pin so lift it up when taking receiver off. The screws are torx although I have rm4a1 gen 3 and am not sure if ronin is exactly the same with only slight differences but on mine they are torx. Pop the trigger pin and pop the rear body pin and she should wiggle loose and then the gearbox. There is only one small phillips screw that you need to remove that is really obvious as the piece that the screw is holding is covering one of the screws right by where the trigger assembly is in the corner. There is a little spring underneath the latch so take care to know which direction it was facing otherwise worst case you will have to guess a couple times but when you reasseble the latch, it should want to stay down and keep moving down towards the motor when you lift it up. Pop all the normal gearbox screws and remove the warranty sticker and that's it. Actually easier than a normal v2 in my opinion. However, like a muppet I pulled on a wire a little too hard and the wire actually snapped so be careful otherwise you will be soldering joints for an hour. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ANYTHING. The screws and nuts will stop moving when they are tight enough, especially the buffer tube end plate, it will just stop, don't tighten it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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