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THE TM MWS thread


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1 hour ago, Wild Weasel said:

Still on the plastic buffer after two years with no problems. With regards to upgrades if I could go back and tell my younger self I'd upgrade the hop nub (six g) the lightweight bolt catch and green gas mod the mags and save the money for externals as I've tried most 'upgrades' and found for me anyway that there a disappointment and had to spend money reverting to original parts and I now hit a crouching man size target at 60m at under 350fps.

listen for the ting of the hits - 2x sprayed joined metal plasterer's hawks targets 325x650mm in size shooting 0.30g Geoff's super natural bio bb's on a windless day.

 

Looking great! I’m just changing the bucking and the hop arm internally. I’ve done some external visual upgrades with rail covers etc. Green gas modded all 5 mags and I’m getting 278FPS with less than 1FPS variation on .28g bbs

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On 15/05/2021 at 08:46, Recoil_ said:

I’ve just joined the club! Just awaiting an optic and then I’m all set. I’m running it on green gas and I have an upgraded rubber and hop arm to change out. 
 

What’s a good barrel tool to remove the barrel so I can change the parts?
 

The buffer is plastic, any good replacements for when it may break?

9C62BD1C-0C48-486B-B447-D42F24A302E6.jpeg

 

Where do you live mate?  I made a tool to take mine off, I could probably do yours if you're anywhere near Derby.  Special tool, AR vice clamp, vice and electric heat gun where what it took to take mine off.

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24 minutes ago, Captain Darling said:

 

Where do you live mate?  I made a tool to take mine off, I could probably do yours if you're anywhere near Derby.  Special tool, AR vice clamp, vice and electric heat gun where what it took to take mine off.

I live in Lincolnshire. I have an AR tool coming so hopefully shouldn’t be too bad to remove it!

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I hope it works for you mate, but I do not think Marui made their inner barrel nut to real steel specs.  I got lucky and found some random pipe that we cut and bent to shape at work.  Then loads of heat to melt the glue and it came off with quite a lot of force.  Once off it's easy to get on and off whenever needed.

 

The Brownells one in your pictures looks like it might fit, just go steady with it and send it back unmarked if it doesn't work.

 

I'm looking at playing at MAW soon, so let me know if it doesn't fit.

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I am assuming the more expensive HAO m-lok rail dont need filing down by the front takedown pin area so the upper can open without hittting the rail?

 

https://www.haoptwart.com/product-page/hao-mk16-m-lok-handguard

 

I bought cheaper one from JK army but when I get a longer rail for my dmr build I don't really want to spend lots to have damaged it like my cheaper £40 one lol.

 

https://shop.jkarmy.com/mf-mk8-style-m-lok-rail-7-9-13-inch-for-aeg-mws-ghk-multi-nut-spec-bk-od.html

 

 

 

 

Edited by GothicGhost
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20 minutes ago, GothicGhost said:

I am assuming the more expensive HAO m-lok rail dont need filing down by the front takedown pin area so the upper can open without hittting the rail?

 

https://www.haoptwart.com/product-page/hao-mk16-m-lok-handguard

 

I bought cheaper one from JK army but when I get a longer rail for my dmr build I don't really want to spend lots to have damaged it like my cheaper £40 one lol.

 

https://shop.jkarmy.com/mf-mk8-style-m-lok-rail-7-9-13-inch-for-aeg-mws-ghk-multi-nut-spec-bk-od.html

 

 

 

 

I can confirm that the Hao one DOESN'T need filing to fit :) It is also worth every penny, how they make something so well. at that price is amazing.

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2 hours ago, SSPKali said:

I can confirm that the Hao one DOESN'T need filing to fit :) It is also worth every penny, how they make something so well. at that price is amazing.

Thank you, yeah had I known I would need to grind down the rail, I might of saved  a little more  🤣🤣😅.

 

Oh well, I do like the rail I got so it do for now and in a few months get longer version.

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18 hours ago, quango2k said:

I was more talking about the tiny rail and a long range scope lol all kinds of frankengun going on. Keep doing you lol.

 

Fyi buddy, those anti rotation screws are supposed to be metal. Just use them, mark the body..it don't matter..its gonna get dings anyway. 

You should be able to lift .46 with the brass nub and reach 70m. Worth trying.

Don't think I want to go any heavier on sub 350fps as my rounds will arrive after a warning letter submitted in writing they would be that slow!

17 hours ago, AlphaBear said:

Now that’s an awesome back garden...

Can I come over and range test all my gear 😂

.

Ill bring beers too ;) 

It's a field with a strip of woodland along the side that I borrow from a friend approximately 160m X 100m although she will be turning it into a caravan park this year so no more team training here


😞

 

But you are more than welcome, I can organise a range day with targets if you like?

Edited by Wild Weasel
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9 hours ago, GothicGhost said:

Thank you, yeah had I known I would need to grind down the rail, I might of saved  a little more  🤣🤣😅.

 

Oh well, I do like the rail I got so it do for now and in a few months get longer version.

They are different rails too. Yours is a mk8 replica, HAO ones are the MK16 which is a lot more stable when mounted. 

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On 16/05/2021 at 10:46, quango2k said:

I was more talking about the tiny rail and a long range scope lol all kinds of frankengun going on. Keep doing you lol.

 

Fyi buddy, those anti rotation screws are supposed to be metal. Just use them, mark the body..it don't matter..its gonna get dings anyway. 

You should be able to lift .46 with the brass nub and reach 70m. Worth trying.

It's my only scope I have right now and I don't great eye sight so it helps me when trying get a hit lol.

I  would love vortext x3 prism scope or something bit smaller later, but HPA setup first :D.

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23 hours ago, SSPKali said:

I can confirm that the Hao one DOESN'T need filing to fit :) It is also worth every penny, how they make something so well. at that price is amazing.

That's reassuring to know as I ordered one yesterday...and yes, as @AlphaBearsaid, HAO aren't delivering to the UK at the moment, but as I'm still waiting for Fire Support's TM restock, I haven't got a gun to attach it to anyhow!

 

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1 hour ago, Hypokondrikern said:

@GothicGhost

 

yes, but you might have to unscrew the buffertube 1-2 revolutions for the bolt lock to engage or get a lightweight bolt stop. Someone advised to not fully tighten the bad lever around the bolt lock. I don’t know why. Still waiting for mine from AliExpress... 

Don't agree with unScrewing the buffer tube if you don't have to, that can lead to over-travel on the bolt and that in turn can crack the lower in half if you don't pack out the base of the tube with the hsb buffer from six G gunsmithing or 10p coins.

 

A better solution in my opinion for what it's worth is a lightweight bolt catch from gunsmodify as that will offset the weight of the lever and allow the mag to push up the catch on empty in time to catch the base of the bolt, but with all these things try it before you buy more bits, just ensure when you pull the charging handle fully back the bolt is not striking the lower at the point it joins the buffer tube.

 

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8 hours ago, GothicGhost said:

That's the one, works like a charm on mine.

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hi guys, i see some of you tried g&p adjustable nozzle. so maybe stupid question : what would happen if i put gold 4.5 or red 5.0 one with 250mm length inner barrel? i see 5.0 one is for long barrel. do you recommend this npas?

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10 hours ago, sabaka said:

hi guys, i see some of you tried g&p adjustable nozzle. so maybe stupid question : what would happen if i put gold 4.5 or red 5.0 one with 250mm length inner barrel? i see 5.0 one is for long barrel. do you recommend this npas?

 

To be honest it's a question of trying it and see what happens. I have a 3.5 which marries up to the CQBR barrel length. If I use the 4.5 or 5.0 the question

 is will the valve let through more gas at it's minimum setting than say a 3.5 will? Buy one and let us know.. It's all a learning curve for everyone :)

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47 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

 

To be honest it's a question of trying it and see what happens. I have a 3.5 which marries up to the CQBR barrel length. If I use the 4.5 or 5.0 the question

 is will the valve let through more gas at it's minimum setting than say a 3.5 will? Buy one and let us know.. It's all a learning curve for everyone :)

I would have thought that the valves for longer barrels would let through LESS gas to avoid massive joule creep? I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time!

 

Maybe we need to club together to buy the low, mid and high and test them out on our set ups and pass them round to get a ground truth for them? 

Edited by SSPKali
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Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:-

 

Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock.

Original valve ? Perfect.

Ratech npas valve ? Jam

G&p adjustable valve ? Jam 

 

I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p).

 

I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas.

 

Comment:-

Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed.

And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always.

It's some kind of japanese curse i guess

TY all

 

Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit.

 

Any thoughts

https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/

 

 

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9 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:-

 

Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock.

Original valve ? Perfect.

Ratech npas valve ? Jam

G&p adjustable valve ? Jam 

 

I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p).

 

I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas.

 

Comment:-

Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed.

And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always.

It's some kind of japanese curse i guess

TY all

 

Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit.

 

Any thoughts

https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/

 

 

Handily I can't post on that group as they have refused to let me join.

 

He doesn't say *what* is jamming? The bolt? The valve/NPAS? 

 

Silver RATech will jam in a TM nozzle and needs sanding to move smoothly.

 

A quick and cheap option for him to try is to glue a 0.1mm gear box shim to the back of the TM valve. That will close the gap the gas flows through a tad and will drop the FPS. A bit trial and error but worth a shot!

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