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THE TM MWS thread


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3 minutes ago, gunbod007 said:

I have heard second hand that they would be a terrible Idea for GBB mags and could cause damage

The TM one is great. It basically has a little adapter that swings and enables you to load a GBB mag

Yeah I order that one now, the nuprol one has the say bit that flips out but it don't work unless I am doing it wrong lol

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1 hour ago, Airsoft Tailoring said:

I’ve never damaged my mws magazine lips - been using my adapter for nearly 2 years before the pandemic. Played fortnightly. 
 

okay partial lie, I have had to replace one set. But that was due to a car crash. 

Car crash with airsoft guns in the boot? Ouch

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Right folks I'm still struggling to get my head round consistency here but with regards to the bolt what is the best setup in your opinion for consistency here i.e. for standard TM bolt barrel, nozzle - I have bought a fair few options including npas, g&p three position piston stop, dp valve, TM valve with grub screw drilled through it (went through a little bit pissed) TM nozzle, guns modify drop in nozzle, ag v1 nozzle, TM piston seal, ag v1 piston seal (swollen), dp enhanced piston seal and a few nozzle springs.

I'm planning on using a new TM nozzle, TM springs, TM piston seal and the grub screw  through the original valve first.

If none of this makes any difference I'm going to replace the gas  router seals on my magazines

Any thoughts?

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2 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

Right folks I'm still struggling to get my head round consistency here but with regards to the bolt what is the best setup in your opinion for consistency here i.e. for standard TM bolt barrel, nozzle - I have bought a fair few options including npas, g&p three position piston stop, dp valve, TM valve with grub screw drilled through it (went through a little bit pissed) TM nozzle, guns modify drop in nozzle, ag v1 nozzle, TM piston seal, ag v1 piston seal (swollen), dp enhanced piston seal and a few nozzle springs.

I'm planning on using a new TM nozzle, TM springs, TM piston seal and the grub screw  through the original valve first.

If none of this makes any difference I'm going to replace the gas  router seals on my magazines

Any thoughts?

For consistency leave it standard?

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2 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

Right folks I'm still struggling to get my head round consistency here but with regards to the bolt what is the best setup in your opinion for consistency here i.e. for standard TM bolt barrel, nozzle - I have bought a fair few options including npas, g&p three position piston stop, dp valve, TM valve with grub screw drilled through it (went through a little bit pissed) TM nozzle, guns modify drop in nozzle, ag v1 nozzle, TM piston seal, ag v1 piston seal (swollen), dp enhanced piston seal and a few nozzle springs.

I'm planning on using a new TM nozzle, TM springs, TM piston seal and the grub screw  through the original valve first.

If none of this makes any difference I'm going to replace the gas  router seals on my magazines

Any thoughts?

What spread of FPS are you getting now?

 

If it is much more than +/-10 (so 20fps in total) maybe look at changing something. Best to test in 20degC and pause between shots to avoid mag cool down impacting the test (and don't over fill the mag with gas!)

 

Everything TM with the DP valve gave me the best results and was +/-5fps vs +/-8fps for stock TM. Hardly worth worrying about!

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23 hours ago, Airsoft Tailoring said:

I’ve never damaged my mws magazine lips - been using my adapter for nearly 2 years before the pandemic. Played fortnightly. 
 

okay partial lie, I have had to replace one set. But that was due to a car crash. 

 

I actually ordered one of the MWS v2 adaptors from you back in late November/early December. Finally got to test it out last month. Worked perfectly with the real Odin once I increased the tension a bit. Loaded my mags all day with no issues. Will get another chance to test it hopefully next weekend

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23 minutes ago, Kerberos said:

 

I actually ordered one of the MWS v2 adaptors from you back in late November/early December. Finally got to test it out last month. Worked perfectly with the real Odin once I increased the tension a bit. Loaded my mags all day with no issues. Will get another chance to test it hopefully next weekend

Glad to hear it - thank you. Can’t wait to start playing again. 

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23 hours ago, Airsoft Tailoring said:

I’ve never damaged my mws magazine lips - been using my adapter for nearly 2 years before the pandemic. Played fortnightly. 
 

okay partial lie, I have had to replace one set. But that was due to a car crash. 

Very good to hear, I've ordered one of them myself! I used this weird 3D printed crank loader from Italy before but it's finally kicked the bucket, I'm surprised it even lasted a year.

29 minutes ago, Kerberos said:

 

I actually ordered one of the MWS v2 adaptors from you back in late November/early December. Finally got to test it out last month. Worked perfectly with the real Odin once I increased the tension a bit. Loaded my mags all day with no issues. Will get another chance to test it hopefully next weekend

How do you increase tension on the odin?

edit: I realised I shouldn't be lazy and I googled it myself, I feel quite enlightened. My Odin is brand new and I found when loading PTS mags, the crank would stop spinning once the mag was full. Apparently, the crank is supposed to spin freely when the magazine is full, so in this case I guess I have to reduce tension/unscrew the nut at the centre of crank? Although since I will be using it primarily with my MWS, I guess I will just leave it as is until I can test the adapter.

Edited by ajumma
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13 minutes ago, ajumma said:

Very good to hear, I've ordered one of them myself! I used this weird 3D printed crank loader from Italy before but it's finally kicked the bucket, I'm surprised it even lasted a year.

How do you increase tension on the odin?

edit: I realised I shouldn't be lazy and I googled it myself, I feel quite enlightened. My Odin is brand new and I found when loading PTS mags, the crank would stop spinning once the mag was full. Apparently, the crank is supposed to spin freely when the magazine is full, so in this case I guess I have to reduce tension/unscrew the nut at the centre of crank? Although since I will be using it primarily with my MWS, I guess I will just leave it as is until I can test the adapter.

So I do a lot of testing of adapters while making new ones and often have it set way too tight to see if an adapter is working or if it’s worth refining to get it working nicer. 
 

when running it as a player I back the nut off till it’s just finger tight. Pop a mag in, ‘fill’ the mag, probably get about 5bbs in. Then tighten a little, ‘fill’, count bbs, repeat. To get the best life out of the feed cog you want it only just filling the mags. Any more tension than that and you’re putting unnecessary pressure on the cog. You want it turning freely with a full mag not clanking or just stopping. 

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14 hours ago, SSPKali said:

What spread of FPS are you getting now?

 

If it is much more than +/-10 (so 20fps in total) maybe look at changing something. Best to test in 20degC and pause between shots to avoid mag cool down impacting the test (and don't over fill the mag with gas!)

 

Everything TM with the DP valve gave me the best results and was +/-5fps vs +/-8fps for stock TM. Hardly worth worrying about!

I'm currently reverting back to stock for testing, I don't have a stock float valve anymore as I've butchered a machine screw through it for a DIY npas (my next test nozzle config). But I'm trying to get this mythical +/- 2fps between shots that people have been on about as mine have been anywhere between 2 to 9 feet per second variation between shots and about 13 to 14 feet per second variation over 10 shots with a good 1 to 2 second pauses between shots.

 

Currently I have reverted all my inner barrel components, new barrel, hop, bucking etc to try and sort my accuracy as it has deteriorated, and it is now to the point were I can hit a 325x325 mm steel @ 40m 9 out of 10 shots  (50 to 90mm groups @ 20m) on propane with Geoff's 0.32g bb's and a six g nub on a wind less day.  Now I want to further improve that by sorting the consistency to help with the vertical spread.  In order to do that I have laid out all different nozzle configurations to try and figure out what works best with what I have and I was hoping you guys could try and point me in the right direction yet again.

I'm fairly certain there's a lot more that she's got to give, I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get there.

Any advice for what to look for with gas routers as they are original and untouched?

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So where the hell did all of these Mags come from.....

 

So sorting out some stuff the other day as I am paring down my Airsoft kit. (Keeping all my GBBR stuff, but going down to 1 NGRS AEG as a final backup) and I discovered (to my surprise) that tucked away in various corners I have 20 (Yes TWENTY!!!!) MWS Magazines. Some of these I purchased myself so I had a skirmishable number of mags, but the others came as part of various used bundles that I used to build my current fleet of 4 MWS. 3 of these are the short Vietnam/MTR style mags the remainder (17) are all TM v2 mags. All are fully working and gas tight. 13 of the 35 rounders have silent fill valves fitted and have had the silver tube cropped just above the fill valve, the other four are stock (and actually look brand new, not even any scuffing round the magazine catch).

 

On the one hand I'm thinking I should just distribute the mags around my various loadouts so they are all 'grab and go' ready rather than just faffing about switching mags around, and it does mean if I ever sell my collection each gun will come with a usable amount of mags. On the other hand I am secretly crying inside at the amount of cash I have tied up in MWS magazines that I will never need to carry in one go....

 

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5 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

I'm currently reverting back to stock for testing, I don't have a stock float valve anymore as I've butchered a machine screw through it for a DIY npas (my next test nozzle config). But I'm trying to get this mythical +/- 2fps between shots that people have been on about as mine have been anywhere between 2 to 9 feet per second variation between shots and about 13 to 14 feet per second variation over 10 shots with a good 1 to 2 second pauses between shots.

 

Currently I have reverted all my inner barrel components, new barrel, hop, bucking etc to try and sort my accuracy as it has deteriorated, and it is now to the point were I can hit a 325x325 mm steel @ 40m 9 out of 10 shots  (50 to 90mm groups @ 20m) on propane with Geoff's 0.32g bb's and a six g nub on a wind less day.  Now I want to further improve that by sorting the consistency to help with the vertical spread.  In order to do that I have laid out all different nozzle configurations to try and figure out what works best with what I have and I was hoping you guys could try and point me in the right direction yet again.

I'm fairly certain there's a lot more that she's got to give, I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get there.

Any advice for what to look for with gas routers as they are original and untouched?

+/- 2fps on a GBBR? I call BS 😁

 

I am not sure all vertical deviation is due to fps fluctuations, I imagine that hop up and ammo will have a bigger impact on this. I tested mine at 10m last night and even with the fps changes I put 5 Guarder 0.36g BBs all in a 15mm square box. Other brands and weights (two 0.30g and one 0.32g) were up to a 25mm x 35mm box (sideways spread)

 

I would get some samples of BBs (both different brands and weights) and see which plays best with your set up.

 

If you want to DM me I am happy to post you a baggie of the different ones I have to save a small fortune on BBs 😁

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On 06/05/2021 at 20:56, Airsoft Tailoring said:

So I do a lot of testing of adapters while making new ones and often have it set way too tight to see if an adapter is working or if it’s worth refining to get it working nicer. 
 

when running it as a player I back the nut off till it’s just finger tight. Pop a mag in, ‘fill’ the mag, probably get about 5bbs in. Then tighten a little, ‘fill’, count bbs, repeat. To get the best life out of the feed cog you want it only just filling the mags. Any more tension than that and you’re putting unnecessary pressure on the cog. You want it turning freely with a full mag not clanking or just stopping. 

I’ll do it like that then. I tend to move between my MWS and MTW but 80% of the time, I’m using my MWS. 
 

I was also wondering why my Odin vomits out 8-10 bbs once done filling an aeg mag, I guess its probably because the tension is too high and it’s prematurely loading bbs into/through the cog when the magazine is already full or something... 

 

Either way, nothing is better than having the guy who actually designed the thing to ask questions! I’m eager to test it out once it arrives. 

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1 hour ago, ajumma said:

I’ll do it like that then. I tend to move between my MWS and MTW but 80% of the time, I’m using my MWS. 
 

I was also wondering why my Odin vomits out 8-10 bbs once done filling an aeg mag, I guess its probably because the tension is too high and it’s prematurely loading bbs into/through the cog when the magazine is already full or something... 

 

Either way, nothing is better than having the guy who actually designed the thing to ask questions! I’m eager to test it out once it arrives. 

They ship with an oring just behind the nozzle. But it often falls out. So it will be the bbs sat in the feed tube between the cog and nozzle. 

 

I did message the about it and they told me to use 8.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID, 1.5mm thick nitrile orings. As that’s the closest metric size to what they use. If you wanted to replace yours in the Odin. 
 

I used to use the same setup but it would fall out or jam. So swapped to the current method. Put a lot of bbs through attaching the Odin to my drill for some abuse testing and no faults yet. As far as anyone’s told me anyway.

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55 minutes ago, Airsoft Tailoring said:

 

I did message the about it and they told me to use 8.5mm OD, 5.5mm ID, 1.5mm thick nitrile orings.

Damn that’s specific AF, I wonder if I’ll even be able to find something like that lol... mine is brand new as well, literally took it out of the sealed box, popped some bbs in and inserted my PTS epm, and immediately bbs were falling out once the mag was full. It seems like it didn’t ship with an o-ring at all if you ask me 

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1 hour ago, ajumma said:

Damn that’s specific AF, I wonder if I’ll even be able to find something like that lol... mine is brand new as well, literally took it out of the sealed box, popped some bbs in and inserted my PTS epm, and immediately bbs were falling out once the mag was full. It seems like it didn’t ship with an o-ring at all if you ask me 

 

The ODIN speed loader has an adjustable clutch. There is a video on the ODIN Facebook page which says how to adjust the clutch as some people were having problems even with the new EPM mags (AEG version).  I have two ODINS and they work flawlessly with my NGRS mags albeit you lose a couple off BB's in the Odin's loader pipe..

 

 

Edited by AlphaBear
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Who is going to be the first to try this?

 

https://www.runinworkshop.com/product-page/t8-flat-hop-up-chamber-set

 

image.png.aeedc8c3a8dd1cb048effd848d9c6834.png

Edited by Groot
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Quick question about getting range and accuracy.

 

I have the brass nub ordered, and I wonder if their much different going from .25 to say 32 BB weight to have better range and accuracy on a mostly stock gun?

 

What would be the next best upgrade to get to achieve better range and accuracy??

 

Thank you.

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10 minutes ago, GothicGhost said:

I am using Abbey 144a predator summer gas if that matter much?

 

Thanks.

What FPS does that come out at? I only use propane so I’m not sure what 144a gives

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