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THE TM MWS thread


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5 hours ago, Reap said:


yes it’s counterclockwise to loosen, where did you get the tool from? I have the heat gun, but I want a tool that fits all 4 teeth so that the pressure is applied evenly, at the moment I’m leaning towards making one myself with a bit of grinding and welding.

 

I believe that MK18 barrel nut is the same spec as the standard MWS barrel nut. If so one just needS a metal tube of the correct diameter and then mill out the notches in the tube to fit the barrel nut. Drill a hole out on the muzzle end and then shove a metal bar through it for leverage. Twist. That should do it, surely? 
 

Of course my theory depends upon the MK18 nut being the same as the MWS nut. 

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4 hours ago, Andropheonix said:

Sorry to slide in here my dudes, I'm going to be buying a TM M4A1 MWS on Thursday (First GBBR in the collection), did a lot of research before committing to it, I did read that if you want to use green gas you need an upgraded valve blocker or you'll be in trouble when the OEM part breaks, so I managed to get the Dynamic Precision reinforced aluminum valve blocker, 2 quick questions if anyone has time.

 

1. Is there a video or guide floating round (I did do a quick forum search) that I can follow for installing it?

2. Should the rubber hose that goes inside the spring be slightly smaller than the spring? Looking at mine, it's not so it doesn't look like the spring will ever be able to retract fully... 

 

Cheers, gents!

 

 

 

Not 100% sure on the rubber tube though I believe it's just there as a guide for the spring, so I cannot imagine it will hurt to trim it down. Eagel6 have a great video on bolt dissassembly. It's what I used to learn when I first picked up my MWS.

 

 

 

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20 hours ago, Cyberlawyer said:

So I managed to pick up a mildly abused lower to match up with my spare upper so I will have 3 complete MWS in 10” 14” and 18” barrel lengths.


My question to the collective is that this lower has had dummy anti-rotation latches fitted to it. (It is the absolute appalling manner that these were fitted in that is the cause of the abuse). Pretty sure I can fix the damage and refinish the lower to the point it will be invisible, but the original punch pin is missing. Having been replaced by the threaded rod for the latches. Any one have any experience with these? are they OK or should I make the effort to reinstate the original punch pin?


I just received my pair of dummy anti-rotation pins from Aliexpress... I am starting to get second thoughts about installing them since I read this post. What abuse has the system taken from them? Purely cosmetic? or was it the uncaring method of appliance from the previous owner that is to blame? 

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The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting.
 

These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side.

 

To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver.

 

given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.

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21 hours ago, Crazy_Crystal said:

So I notice that g&p have released an extended P-Mag for the MWS.... Has anyone managed to test one, and if so how does it compare to the other P-mags out there for consistency?

 

https://shop.jkarmy.com/g-p-g-mag-long-ver-for-marui-tm-mws-gbbr-system-black-magazine-p-mag-style.html

 



This video with subtitles ( translated ) give you some ideas of what to expect. G&P does generally quality products for the MWS but I'd still wait another 2-3 months to hear more opinions. 

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On 23/11/2020 at 10:52, Captain Darling said:

 

Yes, I have managed to remove mine with a electric heat gun and 'special tool' I fabribodged at work from some (I think) 26mm OD conduit as seen the the attached pic.  It was quite the horror show, but came off pretty easily once I had got it all clamped in a vice with an AR receiver clam.

 

I shall be letting the tool go with the set when I flog the MK18 rail, barrel nut, flash hider, front sling loop point, rear stock and sights.

 

 

mk18 tool.jpg

ar clamp.jpg

 

This is the tool I'm on about. One of our members made one..... 

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16 minutes ago, Cyberlawyer said:

The anti rotation bolts I have require two holes to be drilled in the lower. Where the fake forward trigger box retaining pins are located. These fit two small studs in the front of the anti-rotation pins that stop them twisting.
 

These need to be drilled very carefully preferably with a pillar drill and using a punch hole as a guide. With the trigger box removed just to be safe. The maniac that installed the ones I have clearly didn’t exercise proper care and made a real mess of drilling one side.

 

To fix it I’m going to have to fill the crater he created and sand a refinish a bit of the receiver.

 

given I can see absolutely no practical reason to fit them I can’t see why anyone would want to drill holes in their receiver just for a minor aesthetic change.


I see, well, my MWS is in for a similar journey although with more care...

 

The beauty is in the beholder of they eye. I truly distaste all these FURGI-builds that have started to pop up lately, however, adore the look of the civilian AR and minor details such as anti rotation pins haha. 

I hope you got a good price for the MWS and I'd recommend an epoxy with steel fibers for the filling of the cavities. It will be an easy job, never the less, good luck! 

 

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For those who want to know what power you get from using Abbey Ultra Predator gas (the one that comes in a red can) see the attached pic. I did some testing using 0.3 Geoffs and 0.2 Excels at a temperature of 20c (I do believe). The left side shows a virgin G&P bolt carrier group. On the right is the standard Marui bolt. The max figure for the G&P bolt was 387fps!! With the Marui bolt it was 329fps on 0.2s. Interesting results eh? The mag was filled up each time fresh of course which explains the initial high power.

 

E71CA959-B832-4185-9094-2B6E3AA31BAA.jpeg

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So I noticed the nozzle on my Marui bolt had some rotation to it. Gave it a bit of a nudge and felt like this was a lot of play Is this normal or could this cause a problem for the seal with the magazine.
So far most of the things I have worried about on this forum have actually not been a big deal and I hope this isn't either, but just checking as I can't find a video that clearly shows how much play there could be.

 

 

 

 

Edited by gunbod007
Deleted video for file space
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Stop worrying about things. It’s fine. It’s a GBBR. You are gonna drive yourself crazy over things you don’t need to worry about. Lol. When it breaks then worry. In the meantime just enjoy it. Not that we can play at the moment. Meh! 
 

And did you buy it from new? If so nothing to worry about. The MWS is awesome out of the box. Simple. 

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1 hour ago, Hypokondrikern said:

I hope you got a good price for the MWS and I'd recommend an epoxy with steel fibers for the filling of the cavities


It was a complete lower receiver only, as I already have a spare upper. I got a decent price. If you count what I paid for the upper when I bought it (minus the new rail etc I put on it) it was still a decent chunk cheeper than I could have bought a second hand MWS for.

 

I thought about using epoxy but I’m too impatient to wait for it to dry properly so I spoke to a mate who specialises in welding aluminium and filled it with a spot of weld. Some careful grinding back with a dremel and it’s virtually invisible.

 

I will reinstate the rotation pins as the damage to the upper has been done and this lower Is for my 2/3 gun competition rifle so it suits that civilian AR look, but I wouldn’t have bothered otherwise. It just reduces the resale value.

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21 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

Stop worrying about things. It’s fine. It’s a GBBR. You are gonna drive yourself crazy over things you don’t need to worry about. Lol. When it breaks then worry. In the meantime just enjoy it. Not that we can play at the moment. Meh! 
 

And did you buy it from new? If so nothing to worry about. The MWS is awesome out of the box. Simple. 

Yeah bought it brand new was just thinking the movement on the nozzle could mean it doesn't sit flat on the mag but thanks for the reassurance. I ran it on some stronger gas today and wow!

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4 hours ago, Cyberlawyer said:

I will reinstate the rotation pins as the damage to the upper has been done and this lower Is for my 2/3 gun competition rifle so it suits that civilian AR look, but I wouldn’t have bothered otherwise. It just reduces the resale value.

 

Looking forward to see some pics!

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4 hours ago, gunbod007 said:

Yeah bought it brand new was just thinking the movement on the nozzle could mean it doesn't sit flat on the mag but thanks for the reassurance. I ran it on some stronger gas today and wow!


The tolerances are there coz of the nature of the platform. Also don’t use crappy quality bbs. And yes with a much powerful gas the MWS really is something else! 

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1 hour ago, AlphaBear said:


The tolerances are there coz of the nature of the platform. Also don’t use crappy quality bbs. And yes with a much powerful gas the MWS really is something else! 

Always used ASG Blaster. Used to be an AEG guy years a go so comfortable with them. Never use the bbs that come with the gun. I have heard TM is the exception but still will probably leave them alone

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The forces within a GBBR are pretty brutal and so you need good quality BB aamo.  I was using Nuprol RZR 0.28 on my last game and I had a catastrophic failure which caused BB's to shatter consequently ripping my hop rubber and buggering up the nozzle. The only reason I used Nuprols was because I was changing between my AEG and MWS during the day and I couldn't be asked to run 2 sets of BB's and stick Geoff's into the MWS.... lesson learned! 

 

From my perspective use either Geoff's, G&G, BLS and I believe LongBow too.. Fire support recommend G&G over the others as their quality is top notch... these are my views of course... other members may have a different opinion ;)

 

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On 23/01/2021 at 05:56, Reap said:


yes it’s counterclockwise to loosen, where did you get the tool from? I have the heat gun, but I want a tool that fits all 4 teeth so that the pressure is applied evenly, at the moment I’m leaning towards making one myself with a bit of grinding and welding.

I had bought a G&P URX tool with 4 teeth and had to grind down the teeth a bit until they fit the barrel nut. It probably would have been cheaper to make it, but I don't have the tools or knowhow to do it myself.

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I am sure it's already somewhere in this thread but I just gotta say. I really think it's cute how they put this little foam thing on, to protect the cerakote from the dust cover. it's coming off none the less but nice. 

IMG_0921.HEIC

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has anyone changed the gash monkey metal selector switch for a steel one or an ambi one ? if so, what is the best brand. I read the angry gun one is floppy and shite, I see there is a G&P one too. Any idea which is the best? 

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5 hours ago, quango2k said:

has anyone changed the gash monkey metal selector switch for a steel one or an ambi one ? if so, what is the best brand. I read the angry gun one is floppy and shite, I see there is a G&P one too. Any idea which is the best? 

What’s wrong with the one you got?

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On 24/01/2021 at 02:30, gunbod007 said:

Always used ASG Blaster. Used to be an AEG guy years a go so comfortable with them. Never use the bbs that come with the gun. I have heard TM is the exception but still will probably leave them alone


I have been running ASG blaster 0.32s with no problems.  But I play semi only and don’t shoot too much. It’s my favorite bio bb after Geoffs 

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3 minutes ago, jsmithski said:

It’s not a huge difference.

between steel and monkey metal?? The stock selector, bolt catch, forward assist and mag release are pot metal which is cack. even after minor use the coatings start wearing. I've already replaced everything apart from the selector as if they are not machined right, they can flop about (like the angry gun one) I'm wondering if the G&P or Gunsmodify are better made. 

 

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28 minutes ago, quango2k said:

between steel and monkey metal?? The stock selector, bolt catch, forward assist and mag release are pot metal which is cack. even after minor use the coatings start wearing. I've already replaced everything apart from the selector as if they are not machined right, they can flop about (like the angry gun one) I'm wondering if the G&P or Gunsmodify are better made. 

 

The coating wears out on steel as well. GP, Angry Gun etc. are all replicas, toy parts. Have you seen real steel fire selector and how it is made? 

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