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THE TM MWS thread


Wo1f

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Hello chaps,

 

So I ordered an NPAS from mlemart

And they sent me the WE open bolt one (silver one). I know it's widely accepted that the mws npas is far better, but is there anyway this one can be used to achieve decent results?

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On 19/08/2019 at 19:55, LoneWolf said:

Hello mates, does anyone run the laylax chamber? If yes what Bucking & nub? 

Thanks 

Hello , I use laylax chamber with nub prometheus and Stock bucking .

 

Best performance for me actually

Aprox 62-63 meters with 0.30gr BBs and Gas to 1.14J max.

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On 31/08/2019 at 22:22, RossF said:

For anybody that wants it, here is the link: https://docs.google.com/document/d/10RLbvPbq-HXDayhcAIPHgoSTcFIcd3Q5PKZc288_tL0

 

Anyone with the link can edit the document so we can use it as a wiki.

 

If you guys think it’ll be helpful let me know and I’ll post and request sticky.

 

This is great. Good work Ross 👍

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On 31/08/2019 at 23:22, RossF said:

For anybody that wants it, here is the link: https://docs.google.com/document/d/10RLbvPbq-HXDayhcAIPHgoSTcFIcd3Q5PKZc288_tL0

 

Anyone with the link can edit the document so we can use it as a wiki.

 

If you guys think it’ll be helpful let me know and I’ll post and request sticky.

 

Great job!! This is really something! Thank you.

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Installed the black MWS NPAS, fps is consistent except every now and then it will spit a BB out at 20fps. I've also noticed that my nozzle sometimes doesn't stay with the hop unit for as long as possible and moves back with the bolt, I will revert back to the old rocket valve soon but just wanted to know if it could be a different problem?

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On 02/09/2019 at 18:23, Jimmeh said:

Hold on - what selector is that? Can we use RS selectors and just take the switch off and put it on the TM barrel? 

 

That is one of strike systems selectors. Used in combination with a thirdpart ambi selector. Kept the center piece and milled it down and made two recesses in it to accept the selector sides from the strike system selector. Not sure what you mean about the barrel though?

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1 hour ago, Fissure said:

 

That is one of strike systems selectors. Used in combination with a thirdpart ambi selector. Kept the center piece and milled it down and made two recesses in it to accept the selector sides from the strike system selector. Not sure what you mean about the barrel though?

What you called “centre piece” I called the barrel. 

 

Thats cool though. Was it easy to do? 

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Hey everyone. I have question on you. When I done some performance ugrades which is lead to +/- 490 FPS I sometimes have this Issue... When I fully fill the mag with propane, first few shots gas leaking out of the bolt/ejection port. Performace go down and rising with any next shot until gas stop leaking (this take 3-5shots). My theory: I upraded nozzle spring set, nozzle valve and rise performace a lot. It seems that shooting cycle is not completed in that cases, maybe stock springs in trigger not handle that pressure? Its complex system where you need some balance so maybe i have to upgrade buffer spring. Probably SixG HSB from Dave may help solve that problem? Thank you for your help.

 

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8 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

Have you green gas modded the mags?

Sounds like the mags are overfilled, so the first few shots have liquid.

No I dont. Just stock magazine with inserted o ring. (Maybe pressure in propan bottle is bigger than in green gas bottles?)

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12 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

No the pressure should be fine.

 

Is the problem the same of different mags?

 

Does the first manually cocked shot work fine?

I have just one mag... 😕 Need order some from Asia. It is doing from the first shot. 

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To any of the other MTR16 owners out there, how can one replace the inner barrel?

Does anyone know of any videos out there that show how to disassemble it?

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5 minutes ago, _FIL_ said:

To any of the other MTR16 owners out there, how can one replace the inner barrel?

Does anyone know of any videos out there that show how to disassemble it?

 

ALL of the bolts are loctighted, you have a battle on your hands.

 

There are two barrel nuts, one with a custom pattern

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4 hours ago, rocketdogbert said:

 

ALL of the bolts are loctighted, you have a battle on your hands.

 

There are two barrel nuts, one with a custom pattern

 

3 hours ago, Davegolf said:

Use a hot air gun to warm the fasteners, this will soften the loctite making for a much easier job 👍

Makes sense, could not move the barrel nuts no matter how hard I tried...

Going to try and use hot air to soften it thanks you guys.

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17 hours ago, _FIL_ said:

 

Makes sense, could not move the barrel nuts no matter how hard I tried...

Going to try and use hot air to soften it thanks you guys.

Dave has a smart suggestion there. I just got the armorer’s wrench in place and tapped it with a brass hammer until it started to move. I managed to mar the soft aluminum of the barrel nut that way but it did come off.

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Just sharing some love for my MWS - took it to Airsoft Plantation today and what a pleasure - shooting people who have a shin stuck out from behind a tree at 70 meters whilst the group around them desperately try to engage me and literally seeing their BBs hit the ground 10 meters short of me and roll along the grass... awesome.

 

Although 3 of the 5 mags I took out with me ran out of gas after around 10 rounds, I cannot believe the problems I’m having just getting these mags to accept gas. WIll try a 20 second plus fill next time and hopefully enough will get in there, or I’ll green gas mod them.

 

But yeah, loooove this gun.

 

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12 hours ago, RossF said:

Just sharing some love for my MWS - took it to Airsoft Plantation today and what a pleasure - shooting people who have a shin stuck out from behind a tree at 70 meters whilst the group around them desperately try to engage me and literally seeing their BBs hit the ground 10 meters short of me and roll along the grass... awesome.

 

Although 3 of the 5 mags I took out with me ran out of gas after around 10 rounds, I cannot believe the problems I’m having just getting these mags to accept gas. WIll try a 20 second plus fill next time and hopefully enough will get in there, or I’ll green gas mod them.

 

But yeah, loooove this gun.

 

i feel your pain. I have the exact problem. and the sad thing is i dont really have the tools to do the green gas mod. I have ordered a hpa drum mag (2000 rounds) lol. With some luck that should sort my problem hahaha 

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1 hour ago, bapexxx said:

i feel your pain. I have the exact problem. and the sad thing is i dont really have the tools to do the green gas mod. I have ordered a hpa drum mag (2000 rounds) lol. With some luck that should sort my problem hahaha 

I believe all you need is a pipe cutter (£10 on amazon) and a valve key (a few quid).

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A hack saw would do it. 

 

Although, like some people have done, I’ve been looking at using shortened tubes to gain a little more gas storage without having to worry about overfilling the magazines.

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I used a JR Hacksaw. Pop a pencil in the tube to measure the depth, then I marked the outside of the tube with said depth. I added about 5mm to be sure I was not going to hit the valve then stuffed kitchen towel in the tube to keep dust out the valve and sawed it off. Pull out towel wadding and job done. Really quick mod to do once you've done one. All 8 mags have this done and they work just fine. 👍

 

EDIT: I used a needle file to round off the cut after - forgot to mention it!

 

EDIT 2: No valve key required. Just use a flat head...

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On the note of the green gas mod I used an angle grinder as I had one to hand however being zinc you could use a junior hacksaw or a pipe cutter I just did it in the quickest way possible.

 

a valve key is so cheap you should get one anyway makes maintaining all your mags a breeze.

 

As long as you have a set of Allen keys (a necessity for pretty much every Airsofter) a valve key (I recommend buying one) some masking tape and two biros and whatever cutting device you choose (you can pick up a Jnr. Hacksaw for about £2) 

 

i took my fill valves with tubes out of the mags, then I taped a ring about 10mm above the actual fill valve (the inner brass tube seen in the picture)

use any thin long item as a depth marker put it down the tube till you hit the valve and put a wrap of tape on that point then take it out and place it beside your tube then move that point towards the end of the tube 10mm and you’ll have a good compromise between gas storage and initial shot consistency.

 

then use the pen to mark that point. That’s your cut line, before you cut remove the valve itself to stop any swarf and filings getting in there. Then cut, by using the tape it should leave less of a sharp edge and then just rebuild your valves and refit to the mags and jobs done.

 

when filling with gas I keep filling till it can’t take anymore, it does mean you’re stood there awhile filling mags however I get about 3 mags on a decent weather day to a fill of gas. So it’s worth the extra 10-15 seconds. 

BA764D53-078F-445A-AD29-2127A328333C.jpeg

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