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Crimsonknight3

Stock Bulldog sr4pg ris upgrades

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Hiya all,

 

I am new to airsofting and just bought my first rifle which is completely stock, as the title says its a totally Stock Bulldog SR4PG RIS, which is used but was only used for back garden target practice and not skirmishing. I want to fully upgrade the internals eventually but for now whilst I'm still slowly acquiring a full set of a gear I could probably afford to upgrade one of the big 3 for improving consistency (barrel, hop up, piston etc)
 

My main question is if any of you experienced lot could only pick ONE to upgrade, which one would it be and why? 

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Hop rubber and nub, probably a Modify Soft Flat Hop with the matching nub. That'll allow you to use 0.28g BBs which will be the best accuracy and range upgrade you can make.

Polish the stock barrel, you won't see any improvement from a replacement at this level.

The SRC pistons last until they break.

Postpone piston breakage by adjusting angle of engagement and shimming, together with proper lubrication.

Every free air seal mod, plus careful assembly so air goes where it's supposed to.

Upgrade the wiring to 16awg with Deans connectors.

Then...

Basic Mosfet.

New motor, because the stock SRC ones are terrible.

7.4v lipo batteries.

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Best advice - DON'T CHUCK MONEY INTO THIS GUN......

 

It is a rebadged SRC Dragon most likely

"should" have a SRC metal gearbox 6mm green bushing thingy with very basic stuff in there

I say "should" and most likely 80% will be the 6mm metal box but JBBG saying re-enforced gearbox means little

SRC did do a plastic gearbox in one or two of the ultra cheap Dragon's but hopefully you got a 6mm metal box

(look in magwell if it is silver then its metal - if it is black then it "could" be the lamer plastic box with no bushings - the gears just run on holes in the plastic shell ffs)

 

It is likely to have the classic two piece hop unit - unless SRC have FINALLY changed up their hop units on starter guns

 

It "may" have the top receiver with rear tabs/loops that bust easily when dismantling the gun

OR

It "may" have no tabs like most modern day receivers and just slide off recent cheapo dragons had no loops

(thank f*ck), but still had 2 piece hop, and the cheapo dragons the dust cover didn't drop down by charging handle

(no biggy - G&G cheapo carbines/Raiders don't drop but have pull down dust cover)

 

 

 

There is a vid on std SRC stuff - BUT your Bulldog may differ slightly on receiver/gearbox as explained

likely to have a two piece hop unit (long overdue to drop this imho)

outer barrel may be metal or on a really cheapo Dragon I had the outer barrel was plastic & f*cking bent too

(always shot right - had to really pi$$ the sights, wondered why - then WTF its a banana at the tip - no wonder)

 

After reading the crap above - I'd just use it for what it is

clean your barrel & use decent bb's - ergh try G&G bb's or blasters or something

(decent bb's can make a big difference)

now & then - quite rarely tbh give the barrel a clean with a DRY tissue on the jam/cleaning rod

adjust your hop and that is about it

 

plink away but try to refrain from sinking money into this gun - honest

save money and put that towards a better gun if/when you decide to upgrade or replace

 

could have bought a slightly better gun - hey it is miles better than the B500A1 I also bought oooops

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That's why I listed the stuff that was free /really cheap. Hopefully by the time he gets to thinking about motors and batteries the OP will have realised that the money could be much better spent elsewhere!

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Some stuff inside the box is quite good but the sector teeth is so narrow

I tried re-using a set in a couple of builds and the sector teeth just munched if pushed

(there is so little width teeth from sector meshing to spur)

 

the bevel is alright 5 lugs and durable - but the sector - jeez that alloy thing is weak

 

The box is re-enforced but does not have the arc so 13:1's can go straight in

but the trolley stop is very thin - had one SRC the trolley post snapped off

(but $hit happens to other boxes too - just noticed how thin the SRC post is)

 

the piston is good yup and may have a double o-ring brass cylinder head if ya lucky

(so SRC do do some stuff well)

They aren't bad but think other makes have upped their game leaving SRC a little behind

Used to be ICS then G&G then SRC from Taiwan but SRC have seemed to have got lost & left behind the others

Shame, think they weren't really bad, just others improved and SRC didn't keep up imho

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Worked on two. One M4 with the metal gearbox made out of cheese. It did at least have metal bushes,even if the gear shafts were like sausages up the Blackwall Tunnel. The other was a SRC RPK. The only thing that improved that was getting rid of anything that was SRC.

Good magnets in the 'Super High Torque' motor though. Rest of the motor is craptastic so put the magnets in a G&P M120 motor.

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Thanks for all your advice. We have 2 kids so Christmas is already expensive and we managed to pick up the bulldog for £75, it's definately meant to be a "save me money on rental costs so I can buy extra mags + gear and save up for a much better aeg + Tokyo marui vsr10" stop over gun haha however if I'm going to be using it for 4-6-8months then I may aswell spend £20-40 improving it to make it as bearable as possible. I'm not a big full auto or burst fire fan so consistency for me is paramount.

I don't have a jam/cleaning rod but I shall carefully improvise something haha

 

I really dislike the mechanism for changing the hop up on this gun though. The dust cover doesn't hold open or anything so you have to pull the rod back to expose the hop up adjuster and then holder the metal cover back aswell as holding the dust flap open. Need 3 hands lol still as a beginner gun I can't complain. Me and my partner shot each other from about 20 metres away. I got off easy as I had a loose jumper on. She was wearing leggings... needless to say it left a perfect 6mm bruise/red dot haha 

 

Do any airsoft shops (just in the general region of london) chrono for free? I obviously want to check make sure it's not hot before I go turn up and find out I can't use my gun.  

I'll let you know if I have the metal gearbox or not at some point. It's technically a Christmas present (despite the fact my partner is itching to go before Xmas(we will rent her gear incase she don't like it)). My 5 year old daughter is even trying to get in on it haha she saw this 220fps Smith an Wesson pink pistol for £15 and is now nagging me for it for her birthday (boxing day) 

 

Thanks for all your advice though, it's much appreciated :-) 

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Any shop that does tech work will have a chrono. Might cost you a couple of quid, but if it's shooting hot, you get it to me and I'll set it up for free! ;)

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8 minutes ago, Hangtight said:

Any shop that does tech work will have a chrono. Might cost you a couple of quid, but if it's shooting hot, you get it to me and I'll set it up for free! ;)

I might take you up on that offer if only to see what setups you have haha 

 

What's your opinion on soft vs hard bushings for adjusting the aoe?

 

When a site says their max fps is 330 with 0.2g does that mean they chrono it with 0.2g bbs? Because other sites say their limits are based on your gun being chrono'd with the weight bbs you intend on using? Seems the rules are all over the place between sites 

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Some sites will insist on 0.2g, some will chrono with the weight you'll be using and read the muzzle energy off a chart. Stops people exploiting joule creep, where you make your gun inefficient with light BBs so it chronos under limit, but actually shoots hot with heavier BBs.

For AOE on my regular AEGS I use tap washers, cos I'm cheap. Two will usually do the job. One things like DSG guns where a bit of cushioning is required them I use a tap washer over the top of a sorbo pad. It makes the sorbo last a lot longer.

Unless you mean the bushings the gears run in?

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54 minutes ago, Crimsonknight3 said:

The dust cover doesn't hold open or anything so you have to pull the rod back to expose the hop up adjuster and then holder the metal cover back as well as holding the dust flap open.... 

 

Sounds like it is a Dragon SRC - from memory than me get the damn thing out under a pile of bits....

Think you just pull the dust cover down & keep it down as it will spring back upwards

the charging handle is for decoration - normally you pull it and the cover drops down & stays down on most guns

 

As said the G&G Carbine/Raider are like this but all others the cover drops rather than is sprung shut

(should also not have the silver or black plate cover if you have to pull down the cover)

 

So you shouldn't need to have 3 hands so much - just 2.5 should suffice

Also should not have the receiver tabs - which would be a good thing coz they snap easily especially in cold climate

 

Yes they should be ok with these starters for a while, save you money on rentals

about 3 games with these guns and you are nearly breaking even on rental costs

(plus battery costs etc....)

 

PLEASE FFS - if messing around with your m8's or other half etc....

ULTRA FFS - MAKE SURE YOU GOT PROPER DECENT EYE PROTECTION !!!!

 

Don't take ANY chances, don't scrimp on cheap glasses or crap

kids will have have full face masks & ensure it is a proper decent standard

Airsoft is no way as fluffy as a Nerf gun that you could mess about & take chances with perhaps

 

Eyepro is a MUST not an after thought

I'm sure you had eyepro when messing about but just ensuring you understand just how important this stuff is

 

I "think" kids have to be about 12 - might be as low as 10 depend on site & their insurance

for younger kids just tell them "it's Nerf or nothing"

So afraid your daughter might need to wait a little while but it will be worth it tell her.....

 

Image result for g&g femme fatale

 

and she can be one of girlies who kick the boys ar$e....

 

Related image

 

Do not nick this girls chocolate or diet coke

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1 hour ago, Hangtight said:

Unless you mean the bushings the gears run in?

I did mean the piston bushing and thanks for the advice :-D 

 

 

Also I'm definately not skimping on eye and face pro. Not only from a safety point of view but I want something that will last. You can skimp on Google's but you'll end up spending the same money repeatedly replacing them IF they even save your eyes. 

I read some advice to just go with a paintball full face mask for simplicity but I've spent too much time the last week figuring out all the safety standard to go the easy route. Love those pics!! 

 

Give me an hour and I'll get some pics up of what I was talking about. About the hop up and dust cover. 

 

As for chrono I'll just have to get it tested and go from there >.< road trip lol think the nearest shop from me is about 30-45 mins away if not an hour.

 

This is what I mean by holding the flat open AND the cover back with one hand to adjust hop up with the other 

 

20171129_153916.thumb.jpg.930202e1319df8b2db23b2ee5f989638.jpg

 

Down the mag well

20171129_153816.thumb.jpg.9c929969914a970496e1d98da8b5ec74.jpg

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Well I looked online and found a "rough poor man's chroni". So taking into account these figures are very rough, I'm between 350 and 375 fps. After looking at a lot of guns on various websites for over a fortnight I could hazard a guess that a gun like this would probably come stock at somewhere around 360 so it seems about right. Too hot for full auto but not hot enough for dmr. Well if I ran semi auto restricted then I wouldn't have to downgrade the spring but if I'm running semi auto only (which would actually suit my play style so that isn't an issue) id want to be closer to the semi-auto max fps... no use not using all the available power I can get. Some nice .26's shouldn't kill the gearbox and give a bit of improved consistency. oh the irony lol 

 

I'm so irritated I can't find anywhere nearby with the space to test the gun at range/adjust the hop up. My partners nan has a real nice long garden/drive but she is anti gun -_- virtually ripped my head off when I was talking to my partner about some nice bolt action rifles in front of her nan lol 

 

Nice exit wound here 

20171130_145608.thumb.jpg.8177624d4d20d8d8f8aa7ee4fe402df4.jpg

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This is where I get the very rough 350-375.

 

20171130_145616.jpg

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On 11/29/2017 at 3:05 PM, Crimsonknight3 said:

 

Down the mag well

20171129_153816.thumb.jpg.9c929969914a970496e1d98da8b5ec74.jpg

 

 

Looks like a two piece hop, the feed tube in pic is alloy/silver but in other pic the main hop/bucking/adjustment is black

 

sort of like this but you have an alloy/silver feed tube:

 

Image result for airsoft two piece hop unit

 

that fits together like this:

 

Image result for src m4 2 piece hop unit

 

you might see a self tapping screw to the left of feed tube in magwell

 

The gearbox could be dark grey alloy or black plastic - hard to see & be 101% certain

but yeah looks like a SRC Dragon

 

the fps will be about 350 -might be a smidge either way

the can test is just a very very very very rough guide but no way accurate

different cans use different alloy & thickness - plus where you hit it bit like breaking a pane of glass

(some places are weaker & others are stronger blah blah blah...)

 

TBH if you ask nicely at a shop or even a site they should let you chrono the gun beforehand

explain you are unsure as it is new and first time out blahblahblah

 

my Dragon was hitting 355-357 and just a smidge too much to creep under the chrono

(might have scraped under by over hopping it but already knew it was a tad hot and I had a spare)

seriously overhopping is cheating, could of hopped for 0.25's - MUST CHRONO ON .20's

or notify you are using 0.25's so they adjust to see an aprox 315fps on 0.25's blah blah blah

 

if it is a whisker over then it could scrape under

 

if it is 360fps or more then you should NOT NEED A NEW SPRING !!!!

there is a big metal (heavy) spacer in there which can be removed if it is really hot say 375

but if you correct AoE with washers or whatever then you will lose about 10fps maybe 15max anyway if 360fps

so really if it was a bit hot you could bring it down without needing to splash out by doing AoE & dropping spacer

more than one way to skin a cat & if you buy a new spring you can sometimes get mis-labelled springs

so if you know you are smidge overthen probably tweak what you got already imho

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27 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

the fps will be about 350 -might be a smidge either way

the can test is just a very very very very rough guide but no way accurate

different cans use different alloy & thickness - plus where you hit it bit like breaking a pane of glass

(some places are weaker & others are stronger blah blah blah...)

 

TBH if you ask nicely at a shop or even a site they should let you chrono the gun beforehand

explain you are unsure as it is new and first time out blahblahblah

 

my Dragon was hitting 355-357 and just a smidge too much to creep under the chrono

(might have scraped under by over hopping it but already knew it was a tad hot and I had a spare)

seriously overhopping is cheating, could of hopped for 0.25's - MUST CHRONO ON .20's

or notify you are using 0.25's so they adjust to see an aprox 315fps on 0.25's blah blah blah

 

if it is a whisker over then it could scrape under

 

if it is 360fps or more then you should NOT NEED A NEW SPRING !!!!

there is a big metal (heavy) spacer in there which can be removed if it is really hot say 375

but if you correct AoE with washers or whatever then you will lose about 10fps maybe 15max anyway if 360fps

so really if it was a bit hot you could bring it down without needing to splash out by doing AoE & dropping spacer

more than one way to skin a cat & if you buy a new spring you can sometimes get mis-labelled springs

so if you know you are smidge overthen probably tweak what you got already imho

12

 

Thank you so much for the advice. I knew correcting AOE does drop fps but from what I have read/watched there can be drops of 5-10fps and people reporting drops of 50 fps. I tried stopping by my local site today (Xsite lane end) but nobody was around. Messaged them a second time on facebook and got a reply. I asked if I can pop by and have it chrono'd tomorrow morning and he said to just drop by so should have a better answer tomorrow. Any changes will have to wait until next week but I'll try the tap washer first to adjust AOE and see what difference that makes. They have a Christmas themed event on the 17th and my partner wants to go so got a couple of weeks to sort things out. 

I asked them what their fps rules are and a pretty short and to the point reply was 350fps is the UK limit.... Uhmm... I read the 2017 regulations earlier and the auto limit is 370, semi-auto and bolt action is 519 obviously these are absolute maximums and no site will use these. Any higher and they are considered real firearms! Apparently, the regs say any site who Chronos a gun over the max limit should report the player to the police.... I asked them specifically if my gun is running hot, if I totally disable full auto would it be within their site limits but he ignored that question. My idea was to drill a small 2-3mm hole at the point where mode selector just goes past semi-auto, then use epoxy or that amazing powder to glue a small metal or plastic nub so the selector physically can't move to auto. I've read other people saying they just totally removed the selector nob, but I'd like to keep the safety option.

 

That is because on a lot of sites websites they state different limits for full auto(usually 330(328 sitewide at cqb sites)), dmr(410), and bolt action(500). I haven't come across a site yet with a single site-wide limit that wasn't a cqb site which Xsite lane end is not.

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There's a nasty trick that basic guns can pull on you if you can't switch to full auto. If for any reason the gun doesn't complete it's full shot cycle in semi, then the cutoff lever will be lifted and you can't re engage the trigger. Jammed. The fix for this is to give it a quick squirt of full auto...and there's the problem.

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1 minute ago, Hangtight said:

There's a nasty trick that basic guns can pull on you if you can't switch to full auto. If for any reason the gun doesn't complete it's full shot cycle in semi, then the cutoff lever will be lifted and you can't re engage the trigger. Jammed. The fix for this is to give it a quick squirt of full auto...and there's the problem.

Surely the simplest way to avoid this is to simply make sure to keep the gun clean/well maintained and don't used a drained battery? I can't think of what else Could cause the piston to stop mid-cycle... Other than something going so wrong it needs to be taken apart anyway haha 

Regardless ill try the AOE improvement first and see what happens to fps then. I just can't believe how strict the rules are over here... In less strict countries I'm sure that more airsoft injuries are caused by mishaps (read: knee gashes, exploded fingers, broken kneecaps, dislocated shoulders, sprained & broken ankles etc etc etc) rather than overpowered guns... Especially if everyone is wearing proper protective gear. I'm sure regulations like this end up more to do with politics than safety. I get there is a point at which bb's become very dangerous but what 1 country deems safe should, therefore, reflect the safety of airsoft guns regardless of the country... A uk .2g bb travelling at 440fps is exactly the same as an American .2g bb travelling at 440fps... The only difference is the opinion of the "safety patrol" (Conkers first being restricted to wearing ballistic goggles (ok ok fair enough UK Gov its sensible IF kids are getting eye injuries) and then just being banned was just mad!) Good example being the possibility of .50 guns being made illegal... Would love to see the statistics on how many people in the UK are killed each year to .50cal weapons over say.... Tripping on poorly maintained roads or pavements..... Rant over hahaha 

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On 11/29/2017 at 2:51 PM, Sitting Duck said:

Do not nick this girls chocolate or diet coke

Pinch her arse and she'll shoot you in the leg

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1 minute ago, PopRocket123 said:

Pinch her arse and she'll shoot you in the leg

My partner has already vowed to shoot me somewhere seriously sensitive should she end up on the opposite team. Lucky for me her aim is shite, unlucky for her my aim is pretty good >.< Told her if we ever do a night game and I can afford nvg, ill secretly paint her clothes with a target in ir reflective paint haha 

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Poor trigger discipline is the usual cause of gearbox jams. You should make sure the trigger remains fully back until the shot cycle is finished. Unless you've got a fancy Mosfet, in which case it'll have a cycle completion function.

Firing semi auto only is also hard on the power system. You're starting the motor from a standstill every time, and stalled is when it'll pull its highest current and hence generate the most heat. Not too much of a problem with beefy lipo batteries and powerful neodynium magnet motors where efficiency is a lot higher and the battery can support the instant peak load, but for what's in your gun at the moment short bursts of full auto would be better.

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3 hours ago, Crimsonknight3 said:

I knew correcting AOE does drop fps but from what I have read/watched there can be drops of 5-10fps and people reporting drops of 50 fps.

 

I asked them what their fps rules are and a pretty short and to the point reply was 350fps is the UK limit.... Uhmm... I read the 2017 regulations earlier and the auto limit is 370, semi-auto and bolt action is 519 obviously these are absolute maximums and no site will use these......

 

yup think 370fps is max limit for auto but only seen one place with this limit in their rules/terms

(can't think which one off top of my head)

most sites it is 350fps and this is absolute max or should be

(the site "may" allow if shooting 348, 350, 352, 348 etc.... the odd one shot just a whisker over but don't bank on it)

mainly to do with insurance

The Mall is 340fps not one smidge more and they chrono on their own mags or speedload a few 0.20's into bespoke mags

(so chrono cheaters don't  even think about it in Reading CQB)

 

AoE is about 10fps loss imho - could be up to 15fps no more if the angle was really bad

could be 5fps if the AoE was just a smidge in need of correcting

 

Often you get this back and may a few more by fitting bearing spring guide & improving crap seals & better piston o-ring

(bearing spring guide and any spacers inside piston increases final spring compression/power)

Also if you fit an irregular spring back to front you can get about 10fps more sometimes I have found

(tighter coils up at piston head instead at back = +10fps)

 

if your gun is shooting 370 and you lock to semi - ergh that is going to be a $hit DMR tbh

You really need to get it chrono'd and see what is what & needs doing

 

Also - unless I missed it, check the box is metal & not plastic v2 gearbox

If it is a plastic v2 box then the screws won't be normal M3 threads but self tapping screws

(in other words these screws won't like lots of opening up of box long term & not a long lasting box)

 

That bastid JambWow & his f*cking re-enforced bollox

or BBGuns4Less where I bought my Dragon - $hite gearbox but has so-so SRC metal gears

(the poxy Krinkov ak74 thingy had f*cking plastic box with crap plastic gears that shred like dairy lea)

 

So check the box before you plan to go too nutz even with a few tweaks

old post I found....

 

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11 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:

 

yup think 370fps is max limit for auto but only seen one place with this limit in their rules/terms

(can't think which one off top of my head)

most sites it is 350fps and this is absolute max or should be

(the site "may" allow if shooting 348, 350, 352, 348 etc.... the odd one shot just a whisker over but don't bank on it)

mainly to do with insurance

The Mall is 340fps not one smidge more and they chrono on their own mags or speedload a few 0.20's into bespoke mags

(so chrono cheaters don't  even think about it in Reading CQB)

 

AoE is about 10fps loss imho - could be up to 15fps no more if the angle was really bad

could be 5fps if the AoE was just a smidge in need of correcting

 

Often you get this back and may a few more by fitting bearing spring guide & improving crap seals & better piston o-ring

(bearing spring guide and any spacers inside piston increases final spring compression/power)

Also if you fit an irregular spring back to front you can get about 10fps more sometimes I have found

(tighter coils up at piston head instead at back = +10fps)

 

if your gun is shooting 370 and you lock to semi - ergh that is going to be a $hit DMR tbh

You really need to get it chrono'd and see what is what & needs doing

 

Also - unless I missed it, check the box is metal & not plastic v2 gearbox

If it is a plastic v2 box then the screws won't be normal M3 threads but self tapping screws

(in other words these screws won't like lots of opening up of box long term & not a long lasting box)

 

That bastid JambWow & his f*cking re-enforced bollox

or BBGuns4Less where I bought my Dragon - $hite gearbox but has so-so SRC metal gears

(the poxy Krinkov ak74 thingy had f*cking plastic box with crap plastic gears that shred like dairy lea)

 

So check the box before you plan to go too nutz even with a few tweaks

old post I found....

 

Thanks, after it's chrono'd ill check the gearbox. To be fair, they aren't that expensive, and if it's a cheapy plastic one, it would be worth the money replacing it with a more sturdy one. I want to make sure its greased but not TOO greased anyway, and replace the grease if its the cheapy Chinese disgusting brown crap anyway. If I'm slightly over fps wise ill try the tap washer and in a month or two get a better piston head and nozzle with decent o rings. 

As for locking it to semi for dmr, some site rules state 410fps for dmr so as long as I'm not going cqb I could actually increase the fps instead (Of course assuming the gearbox and motor can handle it).

What are your opinions on the homemade mosfet systems? Essentially as dumb as they get but does the job of taking the strain off the trigger contacts? 

I'm starting to act like I do with my car... This little bit feels off, I'll just fix that, oh and this isn't right ill sort that and not sure when this was last changed so ill do that..... lmao 

 

 

2 hours ago, Hangtight said:

Poor trigger discipline is the usual cause of gearbox jams. You should make sure the trigger remains fully back until the shot cycle is finished. Unless you've got a fancy Mosfet, in which case it'll have a cycle completion function.

Firing semi auto only is also hard on the power system. You're starting the motor from a standstill every time, and stalled is when it'll pull its highest current and hence generate the most heat. Not too much of a problem with beefy lipo batteries and powerful neodynium magnet motors where efficiency is a lot higher and the battery can support the instant peak load, but for what's in your gun at the moment short bursts of full auto would be better.

Thanks for that advice, despite the fact it doesn't fit my style I'll try to use bursts as much as I can until I can get a better gun (or just keep the shell and keep on improving this one although tbh there are a lot of sexier guns out there haha) 

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4 minutes ago, Sitting Duck said:
On 29/11/2017 at 10:53 AM, Sitting Duck said:

 

Best advice - DON'T CHUCK MONEY INTO THIS GUN......

 

 

 

I don't intend to lol To be honest, I would be miffed if I was the original purchaser if this gun is a rebranded SRC dragon as he paid £250+ about a year ago for it. 

I plan on working on gear in the new year, molle plate carrier, slightly more rugged boots, possibly a nice sight and tac light, and all the while saving up about £250-£350 for my next gun, once I actually have my defence at least and a stronger idea of what sort of gun I personally would be happy to pay. (getting my defence will give me a chance to see others guns and make a more informed choice, while this £75 gun saves me £25-£35 a game)

 

That's the overall plan anyway. In the meantime, if there are cheap things I can do to extend the life, or performance of this gun then I may as well. This event on the 17th will be the perfect opportunity to really get a feel for the quality of the internals of this gun. It may be that it isn't too terrible

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