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Mr Monkey Nuts

I flipping hate AEGs

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So after 18 months i finally got round to soldering all my loom and mosfet back together and gearbox back into the gun.

 

Safe is safe and working well. But in semi its just continually turning the motor making a horrid screeching. Stops in safe and full.

 

Nb this gb has external contacts on the selector plate which i havent used before so know nothing about.

 

Any advise?

 

Also what is a realistic life span for just traditional trigger contacts and a 7.4 lipo?

 

Thanks x

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if it was screeching or making any noise in "Safe" i'd be very worried!!!!

try loosening the gear box screws a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, that'll tell you if it is shimmed too tight.

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So after 18 months i finally got round to soldering all my loom and mosfet back together and gearbox back into the gun.

 

Safe is safe and working well. But in semi its just continually turning the motor making a horrid screeching. Stops in safe and full.

 

Nb this gb has external contacts on the selector plate which i havent used before so know nothing about.

 

Any advise?

 

Also what is a realistic life span for just traditional trigger contacts and a 7.4 lipo?

 

Thanks x

 

 

if it is turning in semi then there is a short or some wiring problem

coz you can actually link them 2 prongy contacts together with a staple or whatever and use a selector plate without a copper sleeve

 

TriggerMod6.jpg

 

the gun still won't fire - it is an " additional " safety feature that some guns have but not needed tbh if the safety mechanism is functioning correctly

 

closed_triggerswitch.jpg

 

if when you turn it to semi them contacts engage then there is a short elsewhere or wiring/mosfet is pear shape

it should NOT fire if you bridge them connections

 

it should still only fire when the trigger trolley makes contact

 

sometimes people have bridged these contacts due to so-so conduction taking place on either semi/auto if them rear prongs are lightly touching - bridge connections - 101% contact like I said but still won't fire unless trigger is pulled

 

if gun fires - then there is short

 

mosfets can die fully on - but "usually" they die brown bread zilch life flatliner

 

by the sounds of it there is some other problem/issue/short in ya gun/fet/wiring I'm afraid

 

I have flattened & bridged them contacts on 3 guns now (with mosfet) latest is a SRC v2 which has them rear prong v2 switches

edit - also that cyma cm515 weird v2 gearbox with a kinda v3 spring guide also had these prongy switches at the back

first stock pic I pulled from the net is a v3 i think & second is a v2 switch - these are not my pics but you got the idea of what I mean

it makes no difference - just ensures 101% contact in both semi or auto no matter what selector plate is used

 

(shs and others don't have them rear prongs so the link isn't broken & needing a copper sleeve selector to bridge - that part of circuit is bridged or rather not broken/pronged if you like - it is just another additional safety not really required if mechanical safety works correctly to stop trigger pull)

 

ahh bollox - was trying to make this easy to understand but as usual bollox'd it and made it more confusing

 

you have a short I'd say

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Thank you for the help so far x

 

ok so brand new standard wiring loom installed (Dis one) Still the same issue. that's three different looms, three different trigger blocks and 2 mosfets, all replicating the same problem.

 

safe = no trigger pull, no firing.

semi = constant full auto firing without touching the trigger, no change on trigger pull.

auto = normal operation, motor on with trigger motor off when released.

 

So if i bridge the two pins on the trigger = nothing

if i bridge the top pin with the selector plate contact = nothing.

 

if i bridge the bottom pin against the selector plate contact, it runs.

 

this is the first time i have tinkered with this type of selector plate, so is this normal or is that my issue?

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how have you soldered the mosfet up ????

if you have used the std wiring with the mosfet that is....

 

now - if using std wiring you remove one of the old red/posi leads and place BOTH on same terminal

then the signal wire only goes to the old terminal.....

 

the motor now has the positive permanently running to it with the join/link of them two wires you did at switch

 

the mosfet has the negative running to it and out the other side to the motor

 

the thin signal wire runs to mosfet from trigger - just that wire on that contact...

 

oh f*ck it pic says 1,000 words.....

 

MOSFET_for_Box_mag.jpg

 

or have you rewired it for dedicated wires to motor & 2 very thin supply/signal wires at switch

normal method if doing a total rewire say on a rear wired gun for example:

 

mosfet_0.jpg

 

ignore the type of mosfet non ab or ab it makes no difference - the wiring method(s) really depends on installer and if using existing or new rewire methods plus personal choice and what have you - same meat different gravy.....

if you was building your own 3034 the red/posi would run straight to motor but with a thin wire wrapped around it taking a posi supply to trigger so on some builds it may look like a positive wire is totally uninterupted to motor - well yeah it is but with a thin wire tapping into it with shrink wrap blah blah blah....

 

at very first guess I just need you to double/triple check your wiring is correct and no shorts

 

it should not make no difference in auto/semi and certainly not start shooting on its own in just one of those positions unless something is shorting or wired incorrectly

even if mosfet is permanently on it should not matter in semi/auto - they should both not operate until trigger pulled

 

you may need a test meter but something is way out of whack

 

My guess is that you are using the first "existing" method and need to ensure the two 16awg wires are on same terminal on switch

double/triple check that there is not a tiny whisper hair bridging those two wires to old terminal. Now the thin mosfet signal wire goes on the bare terminal - again double check nothing is bridging the trigger switch terminals....

 

them prongs at rear matter nothing - they are bridged just in case the copper plate doesn't make full 101% contact on them all the time

still it should not fire in semi or auto coz the circuit is not closed until the trolley - slidey lug bit presses in and touches both contacts up top thus completing the circuit

 

you must have a weird short or wiring issue - the mosfet will either work or not in both semi/auto exactly the same

 

ps - did you build your own mosfet or one off the shelf ???

there are numerous fake 3034's on fleabay that are just pure $hite

if building your own then get a m8 or two to go in with ya and buy 10 from RS or something:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/mosfet-transistors/6887204/?origin=null|fp&cm_sp=featureproducts-_-FeaturedProductsContent-_-6887204

 

or

 

a great cheap mosfet ready to go is firestorm:

http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html

 

that is £10 delivered with thermal fuse built in - I don't recommend much but this baby is blinding deal with wires n stuff for anybody just needing one or two basic mosfets

 

if I can help lmk coz reckon it just a really daft issue you are having sir

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The mosfet is a Gate Picco wired in the 2nd way, No obvious shorts. Its doing exactly the same with a new Non Mosfetted loom, which is making me think it may be a selector problem?

 

Now trawling through a parts box i came across three different trigger styles, all for v2.

 

20160809_195034_zpsd8dc3xhm.jpg

 

Top is from an old G&G that never really had any issues, Middle is old and worn and third is the problem trigger.

 

What is the reason for the three different styles and what do they do differently?

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There is really only 2 types.....

 

top looks like it has the recess for the 2 copper prongs like #3

(tbh I've had say 6 or 7 G&G's apart and still never noticed if it has the prongs (don't think so)

 

middle one - for some reason they run the track round the back but instead of 2 prongs it is not broken

 

bottom one - that MUST have a selector plate with a copper plate on it to bridge them prongs...

if those prongs do not get bridged by a copper sleeve on the selector plate it will never fire no matter how good the trolley touches the actual contacts up the top

 

it is simple an additional safety measure - imagine the bastid safety arm fails in a M4 that locks the trigger - very very unlikely

if the selector is set to safe then the copper sleeve is not touching them prongs so gun can't fire even if trigger is pulled and engages the switch

(the circuit is still broken if prongs are not contacting the copper sleeve)

 

however if a "no prong" switch is used instead and the safety arm fails - again very very unlikely the gun could fire in safety mode

 

 

OK - simple simple simple test that you probably did anyway...

just run a positive lead to mosfet and gun will fire unless mosfet is [email protected]

 

if that works as it should flawlessly then is it is the switch/selector problem.....

 

your best best bet is to go with switch #2 - use any trolley that operates ok without trigger's tip/sear slipping off the bottom of trolley....

the actual contacts should not be insanely tight, you should just see them contacts move as the trolley's lug engages & enters them

STOP IT - no funny smutty innuendos as this a family orientated forum so no silly giggling please - well ok just a bit tee heeeee

 

OK - well that configuration is most likely to produce the best possible reliable circuit with least amount of messing about

though a lot depends if trigger/trolley/switch unit operates effectively

I have had to swap around a trolley or two in the past if I felt it might slip off easily under use....

they normally are very interchange-able

it is just the back of switch units that differ

 

V2's I know of

 

no prongs: G&P & D-Boys deffo no prongs & new aftermarket switches - shs deffo no prongs

actually there is absolutely NOTHING around the back at all on these switches - no copper sleeve required any selector plate will work or allow switch circuit to function - some selector plates can throw up a few spots where they lift cut off lever a little in semi causing it to incorrectly operate cutoff up/down a whisker too high so it goes like the dead zone - ooh the joy of aftermarket lame ar$e parts.....

 

prongs: SRC & Cyma v2's - (unsure about cyma v3 switches)

 

really don't matter - but sometimes the prong/copper sleeve switch setup's have been a little iffy especially on some mosfet builds if contact is not 101% and you can get debounce or additional triggering on an iffy contact/circuit - so some people have resorted to bridging them prongs

if using a mosfet on a bridged prong switch a mild link wire is all that is required - though a non fetted switch would need a decent link as it would conduct a higher current on non fetted gun/switch

 

phew - was wondering how you was getting on

hope some of this helps with your poor nightmare

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