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New ICS aeg not working

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HI all got this rifle today http://www.icsbb.com/product/imt-265-1-cxp-uk1-r-tan/

|But I opened the top half and it will not close now for some reason :(

The top half getting stuck on something because if I take out the top parts it will close fine.

aeg2.jpg

 

How far it will close.

aeg1.jpg

And also when I connect the battery nothing working at all so I cant shoot it to reset the gears if that's the problem.

 

The fuse is blown I think does anyone know what amp rating I should get?

Thanks for any help

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HI all got this rifle today http://www.icsbb.com/product/imt-265-1-cxp-uk1-r-tan/

|But I opened the top half and it will not close now for some reason :(

The top half getting stuck on something because if I take out the top parts it will close fine.

aeg2.jpg

 

How far it will close.

 

 

The fuse is blown I think does anyone know what amp rating I should get?

Thanks for any help

 

 

 

run gun lower half of gun on semi with low battery to PARK gears correctly

DO NOT RUN THE GUN AS IT IS !!!!

then reassemble two halves - job done

pic says 1,000 words:

 

71QRGuG.jpg

or

005-L.jpg

no teeth on sector gear exposed or it will mash up nicely - so try to get it with no teeth showing like first pic

(gun has just fired/released piston and stopped on semi)

 

2nd pic the tappet cam is just starting to retract the tappet - so this would be absolute max movement

 

anywhere in between the two pics should be perfect - just no teeth showing unlike your own pic

you get the idea I'm sure - cycle on semi with a low volt battery and you will be sorted

 

the fuse - well it might be a blade type - get one from Halfords of same type/rating

normally clear, yellow or green with a rating 20 to 25amp - no way should it be anymore on stock gun I'd thought

some might have a 15amp fuse but think 20/25amp is about average

it will have a number on top of it telling you the rating and you should be able see that its blown

Halfords or car spares shop will sort you out ok

 

 

Ere - just noticed on your pic - where is your ICS forward assist AR latch releasey dooberry whatsit at back of sector gear opposite the spear gear ???

presume this gun was second hand or missing the ICS releaser doobery mechanism ????

 

did it come off/fall into box causing lock up & blow fuse ???

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Hi thanks.

This gun brand new today am I missing a part? I am not sure what missing?

 

I hooked it up quick without the fuse and got the gear into place so it closes now.

 

Then I got some more fuses tonight but they always blown when I try to fire.

I think it could be the tamiya to deans adapter I am using but I can't be sure as its the only battery I got till tomorrow.

 

This what the gears look like now aeg3.jpg

 

Thank you.

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Hi thanks.

This gun brand new today am I missing a part? I am not sure what missing?

 

I hooked it up quick without the fuse and got the gear into place so it closes now.

 

Then I got some more fuses tonight but they always blown when I try to fire.

I think it could be the tamiya to deans adapter I am using but I can't be sure as its the only battery I got till tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

tuJGz6T.jpg

 

don't know why it ain't there on a new gun - its one of the things ICS are famous for with their split gearbox

 

I would of made sure NO TEETH were showing

 

aeg3.jpg

 

there are some teeth showing - you can cycle the lower on auto - just gotta stop it at right place

semi should of done it but seems like it might have run on a bit - well quite a bit - you using 11.1v or some 35c 7.4v or something ???

 

as for deans converter.....

 

double-triple check polarity - coz on LARGE tamiya the round pin/plug socket is black but on regular small tamiya the round pin/plug socket is red

buying cheapo adapters - fleabay/china they may end up with incorrect polarity on the pins

so in effect the gun locks as it is trying to run in reverse but AR latch is stopping/locking it

 

I've been there and thought wtf as gun refuses to budge - then examining the adaptor I saw the red/black wires reversed over wrong polarity - bastid fleabay muppets

just had to unpick the pins from connector housing - swap round and click back into plastic housing

now I usually just rewire & solder on deans and be done with it all

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Thank you very much for your help :)

 

The spring tension on the new ones is activated when you put on safe if that what you meant.

I don't if its working right without power though.

 

The battery I got is this one http://www.fire-support.co.uk//product/kong-power-rechargeable-lipo-battery-1300mah-20c-74v-stick-single-pack-dean

I was going to wire up the gun with a deans connection after I made sure it was working fine using the adapter.

 

So I got adapter from ebay...lol and the red and black did not match up so I and redid them wires and still its blowing fuse.

I am going to buy a normal tamiya battery tomorrow so I know 100% it's working or not.

 

Thank you.

 

Cheers.

 

 

------------------------------------

Update.

 

I found my other battery that is a 9.6 and the gun with the top half off was working fine.

 

So now I know the gun working so I put on the deans connection for my 7.4 and the fuse blown again.

Can a battery blow the fuse? I am thinking something wrong with the battery now.

Thanks.

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A battery can blow a fuse.

 

The fuse is designed as a week point incase of a power surge.

 

I had a problem with a Nuprol Lipo in my Krytac LVOA. Every time I attactched it and tried the gun it blew the fuse. The other Nuprol Lipo I brought with it worked fine. Not sure why the other Lipo didnt work, maybe fecked inside or something.

 

I'd say don't use the 7.4 as there is obviously an issue with it.

 

CBH

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Can I point out that you should not f*ck with the gun too much......

 

do not alter the wiring permanently if it is under guarantee

 

by all means try some diagnostics n stuff but if the gun is f*cked then send it back !!!!

 

The classic ICS malarky forward assist dooberry watsit is what ICS and a few others are famous for

The WE 416 had a forward assist AR latchy dooberry release thingy on safety but thought ICS was still using the classic release button

but they may have changed them - though tbh can't see why

 

Did you buy this from Fire Support as they are the ICS mofo's

 

if it still isn't working I'd simply get in touch with retailer as it is new and send the f*cking thing back

the top half of gearbox/receiver could have a fault or spring locked up - but doubt it

The ICS motor is faster than G&G's but not sure how robust it is

Lord Metile had to have a new motor replaced under warranty a while back

 

weird f*cking thing from the ICS site:

 

https://youtu.be/0xC2hfnlM5M

 

don't know why they don't f*cking install one from factory but like I said I had reservations how robust the faster stock ICS motor was

http://www.icsbb.com/faq/#1449903709297-3ba17ca1-175b

 

NO I AM NOT SAYING DO THIS - just saying not seen this from any gun or motor manufacturer ???

anyway.....

 

I had an ICS just die on me but seperated two halves - ran box a few cycles - thought thats is working, put it back together and gun ran fine ???

 

The motor itself "might" have a short in it - I'm still wondering how/when they changed the release button to the WE safety AR leases system, so still have a tiny bit in my mind did owt fall off or come loose ???

 

either way - if gun is still playing up don't mess too much with it and send her back - do not screw it up further and void any warranty is what I'm trying to say

it should just work out of box without blowing fuse after fuse....

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I think the gun working as I done a quick test with the 9.6v battery lower half for a few turns and worked fine.

 

Then thought it was the adapter was doing something funny so I stupidly got the soldering iron and connected the dean connection up hoping that be it.

But my deans battery does not work still.

 

So I have messed up my warranty now I think connecting the deans but Monday when I get a new battery I will know for sure.

 

 

This what I did after testing the 9.6v working battery.

aeg4.jpg

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I have gotta ask.....

 

wtf did you buy this from ????

 

coz the more I look at pics the more questions I have about gun

I haven't delved into ICS's most recent stuff but as far as I can tell they were still using the classic release for AR latch

 

even CXP-08 - cool video showing how the old school mechanical trigger/trolley system works

but you can see the missing release arm going like the clappers when firing on full auto

 

Also now just noticed how f*cking bone dry that box looks - them gears teeth seem to have f*ck all grease on them

I know it isn't a chinese gun that normally has green snotty gunk smear EVERYWHERE - but jeez I'd expect to see grease on that box when opening

 

You have sort of f*cked the warranty a bit going done the solder deans route but I'd deffo speak to retailer - nowt to lose

The motor height could be out, there could be bad/short on motor/wiring but its hard to diagnose jack from here

 

but the AR release & how dry the box appears to be in pics is raising some questions as to where this gun came from ???

was this a really old stock gun or a customer/fault return - hence me asking wtf it came from

 

keep running it with a fuse ffs - if that fuse is like 20/25amp it should not blow on stock guns at all

something is up with it - some weird straining is taking place - could be bone dry, bad motor or electric short....

as soon as she starts to pull the spring it blows - could be a locked top receiver/spring/piston but doubt it as I said

I reckon she is close to blowing just with lower receiver and under stress she blows all the fuses you chuck at her....

 

It is a weird one but I keep looking at it and keep finding more wtf's ???

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Dont think the new ones have AR release latch anymore as they they have the spring release on the safety.

 

Looks like plenty of grease as ICS use a white grease that I can see in the pics.

 

Gear position is something you have to be a bit careful of when splitting as the UK ones can overspin a bit because of the m100 spring. Make sure the bolt cover is all the way home before splitting.

 

If you bought it from firesupport they should be ok with you changing the connectors.

 

If it works ok with one battery but not another then its the battery that is the problem.

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Thank you all I bought it from red one airsoft The guy who runs it seems very good and I am sure nothing bad from him.

Had to get this item ordered in as they did not have it instock so its 100% new.

 

I do think it's the battery but I could not buy one today :(

Monday I will have to get one and hope it works.

 

Big lesson learned don't mess with stuff lol.

If its broken I think I have to pay someone to fix it for me as I don't think the shop can do much if I changed the connector and that's my bad.

 

Thanks all.

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Cheers Trigger for clarifying that a bit more.....

 

xKjlQgD.jpg

 

metal hop unit too as opposed to the plastic ones that can play up over time

really hope you get it sorted sir

excuse me worrying more than needed - yup safety to release & guess it does have a clear white-ish glaze on them gears

 

oh well - learnt something myself - but fingers crossed new battery or good customer service will get gun sorted

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Bit confused right now but I try do step by step what happened lol.

 

I went to my local shop to get another battery and the tech guy in there had a quick look while I was paying.

He put his finger on the gears and says it very tight and could be jamming up.

He could do a service for £40 and check it over if it don't work.

 

So I get home and test the new 7.4v battery and fuse blown :(

I then tested the 9.6v battery gain and it was working like it did before.

 

I then tested the 7.4v deans battery that has never worked before and is now suddenly working fine ?????

Now all batteries I put in are working perfect and been through 10+ mags shooting fine.

 

 

I really don't know how it fixed itself lol, I can think if 9.6v battery shifted the gears to get them unstuck or I have bad wire

and its shifted postilion so its not making contact right now.

 

I have a few questions if anyone could help me as the only other aeg I have owned was the JG AUG and bit different internals to the m4.

 

(1) On the blowback unit should always return the same position ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9bjTYX9JhA

 

(2) When shooting I feel the motor in the grip like its moving is this normal?

 

 

Thank you all for your help :)

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If the Motor feels like it is twisting then that would be a good indication that the gearbox is possibly over shimmed/too tight.

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It feels like its moving up and down but I don't know what you would call normal.

 

I will take it to the shop tomorrow see what they say is my only option I think.

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Right the tech at the shop had a quick look and done some tests for me.

 

He said its could of been tight shims and that's why the 9.6v could unstuck the gears where the 7.4 just blown a fuse.

The motor not getting warm and what I was feeling is normal.

Its shooting at 315-330 fps.

 

So everything seems to be fine now :)

Just like to say thank you all for your help and advice it's appreciated.

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