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Imkiqe

APS UAR v1 - DMR build - advice needed

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Hi all,

 

A while ago I bought the APS UAR as my first gun. I have since bought and used other guns as my primary. Leaving the UAR to sit and gather dust.

 

I want to build it into a DMR with locked to semi via a hardwired mosfet, but due to the quick change spring system i also would like to be able to switch it back into auto capabilities after changing the spring.

 

Could anyone give me advice as to parts and things needed to make a good dmr with decent range, i'm looking to do a large overhaul to this gun, so any ideas are welcome.

 

DMR limit: 400 fps

AEG limit: 350 fps

 

Thanks all!

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Get a programmable MOSFET like Gate or Kong burst 2 or 3 wizard

Set resume full auto delay to Max and she won't fire full auto for say 2 or 3 secs plus in auto and should pass any inspection

 

V1 should have battery up front

V2 rear wired

 

Place fet as n where you got room

 

Most sites I think are 425-450 if they trust you on DMR

(Well my site rules but thought that was about the norm)

 

50 fps extra - is it really worth it but quick spring is one of the UARs good points

Hop is slightly adapted AK one

That is where it all matters be it AEG or DMR

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Get a programmable MOSFET like Gate or Kong burst 2 or 3 wizard

Set resume full auto delay to Max and she won't fire full auto for say 2 or 3 secs plus in auto and should pass any inspection

 

V1 should have battery up front

V2 rear wired

 

Place fet as n where you got room

 

Most sites I think are 425-450 if they trust you on DMR

(Well my site rules but thought that was about the norm)

 

50 fps extra - is it really worth it but quick spring is one of the UARs good points

Hop is slightly adapted AK one

That is where it all matters be it AEG or DMR

Hi mate thanks for the advice on the MOSFET.

 

The gun is front wired so ill be keeping it up there.

 

Would you have any advice as to Gears, pistons, cylinders and the like?

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Hi mate thanks for the advice on the MOSFET.

 

The gun is front wired so ill be keeping it up there.

 

Would you have any advice as to Gears, pistons, cylinders and the like?

 

 

A good guide review here:

 

http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html

 

very little needs changing tbh - it isn't that bad but room for improvements:

 

motor - shs torque (short) if you want to pull higher springs and snappy response

piston head - good pom light as possible

piston - shs blue full steel rack - plastic/metal mix on higher springs may strip - so best light steel piston is shs blue

 

correct AoE, m120 if seals are good to m125 spring for dmr stuff

(m130 but should place you over unless seals are crap)

 

if over expected fps and you are a sad speed freak wanting to run 11.1v on shs motor

you could shortstroke up to 2 teeth but would advise only maybe 1 tooth if going for dmr trying to lift heavier bb's

 

Then rest of improvements should be focussing on hop/bucking area

barrel is decent according to review but make sure it is clean and then get the hop the best you can get it

 

As long as you get good seals in piston/cylinder/head & nozzle-hop it will be fine as is

 

yes you may get a cylinder with port a bit further back - type 1

and you could change gears but tbh no more than 16:1 if pulling stronger springs as dmr

(16:1's are in fact 17.25:1 and 18:1 are about 18.65:1 so 16:1's aren't quite that much of increase as we think)

therefore unless the gears are shot then stick with 18:1's

(should take 6.25 turns of bevel to rotate sector gear = 18:1 gears I'm 99% sure it should be 18:1 in there)

 

stock motor is ferrite and can struggle pulling springs over 425fps

 

the long trigger pull can be reduced by doing a hairline trigger mod but it is something that takes a lot of messing about

and not for a quick mod project at all - lots of testing/glue/file/testing etc.......

if not done 101% correctly then it won't work on both modes correctly and more strripping down and testing - only for sad bastids with time to spare

 

phew - think that just about covers it - mosfet can just be shoved in the back - loads of room as v1 is stick battery up front

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A good guide review here:

 

http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html

 

very little needs changing tbh - it isn't that bad but room for improvements:

 

motor - shs torque (short) if you want to pull higher springs and snappy response

piston head - good pom light as possible

piston - shs blue full steel rack - plastic/metal mix on higher springs may strip - so best light steel piston is shs blue

 

correct AoE, m120 if seals are good to m125 spring for dmr stuff

(m130 but should place you over unless seals are crap)

 

if over expected fps and you are a sad speed freak wanting to run 11.1v on shs motor

you could shortstroke up to 2 teeth but would advise only maybe 1 tooth if going for dmr trying to lift heavier bb's

 

Then rest of improvements should be focussing on hop/bucking area

barrel is decent according to review but make sure it is clean and then get the hop the best you can get it

 

As long as you get good seals in piston/cylinder/head & nozzle-hop it will be fine as is

 

yes you may get a cylinder with port a bit further back - type 1

and you could change gears but tbh no more than 16:1 if pulling stronger springs as dmr

(16:1's are in fact 17.25:1 and 18:1 are about 18.65:1 so 16:1's aren't quite that much of increase as we think)

therefore unless the gears are shot then stick with 18:1's

(should take 6.25 turns of bevel to rotate sector gear = 18:1 gears I'm 99% sure it should be 18:1 in there)

 

stock motor is ferrite and can struggle pulling springs over 425fps

 

the long trigger pull can be reduced by doing a hairline trigger mod but it is something that takes a lot of messing about

and not for a quick mod project at all - lots of testing/glue/file/testing etc.......

if not done 101% correctly then it won't work on both modes correctly and more strripping down and testing - only for sad bastids with time to spare

 

phew - think that just about covers it - mosfet can just be shoved in the back - loads of room as v1 is stick battery up front

Thank you so much for all the help brother!

 

I'll get my plan together and post back here once i've got it all together!

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