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First high speed tech work

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Hello looking to slowly upgrading a v2 gearbox I've recently repaired one of my guns and decided to get spare v2 gearbox to practice on and slowly upgrade and change looking to change the gears to 13:1 gears would only be running a 7.4 lipo as wouldn't want crazy rof what other upgrades should I be looking in doing. It's going to be a budget upgrades as still practicing to get good at tech work. Thanks for your help.

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http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/

 

What I will say you must or highly suggest you should do:

 

bushings - not bearings - they will just collapse under stress unless you want to pay £30 ceramics and even then under gears bushings still best

AoE - sorbothane+neoprene mix

shs blue full metal rack piston - their other mixture pistons are not for high speed

(do not take the extreme pi$$ though with full metal rack - yes plastic/metal is wise but long term durability full metal rack is best imho)

deans + rewire with a MOSFET - think most people squeezing max speed/rof/response - whatever crap you wanna call it - many will be using this stuff anyway

o-ring nozzle but ensure it is exactly the same length or stay on original if unsure - a smidge too long and feed trouble, too short loss of fps/seal

(so if fitting an o-ring nozzle too short and lose fps you may as well stick with stock nozzle)

delay clip most likely will help

 

neodym motor - say shs torque is a good choice pulling stuff with a good increase over stock motors but there will come a point where speed becomes a problem and more work and more problems occur as you go on....

 

lame stock guns fire 13 to 15rps out of box aprox......

now you can get these near 20 by using 11.1v lipo but mosfet is wise consideration over time

or

powerful motor eg: shs torque neodym - but will get starved a bit on stock small tamiya - so deans

 

BUT do not combine neodym motor & 11.1v straight away - yes you will be getting high twenties but risk smashing f*ck out of box

Pre Engagement will take place as you get near 30rps on a stock gun with a stock m100 spring

I'll end repeating myself over and over again......

 

I would suggest - sticking on stock gears tbh - why coz you wanna learn to crawl/walk before you try to run/sprint

You can still hit a decent rof, your motor won't struggle and need a stronger one straight away

You fit a mosfet/rewire/deans etc.... now you can run 11.1v if seeking more speed

 

Look - think/decide just how fast you wanna go but most on here stick to twenty's as we have learnt:

Twenty's is plenty & it will last and nearly all mags - even crappy cheap high caps will feed fine

When you try to run 30+ lots of trouble and increased wear & failure tends to take place

 

Also good players do not need to overkill and hose people down - yes response n stuff is great

but it is the player's awareness & response not the gun's rof that usually wins the game

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Also good players do not need to overkill and hose people down - yes response n stuff is great

but it is the player's awareness & response not the gun's rof that usually wins the game

Wise words, I always say the same to people when they ask me about high rof.

You only need 1 or 2 rounds to get a player not 30. Work on your guns accuracy and when thats right work on the player.

Standing back and spraying rounds is always less effective than just getting in there and making sure you hit the target.

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http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/

 

What I will say you must or highly suggest you should do:

 

bushings - not bearings - they will just collapse under stress unless you want to pay £30 ceramics and even then under gears bushings still best

AoE - sorbothane+neoprene mix

shs blue full metal rack piston - their other mixture pistons are not for high speed

(do not take the extreme pi$$ though with full metal rack - yes plastic/metal is wise but long term durability full metal rack is best imho)

deans + rewire with a MOSFET - think most people squeezing max speed/rof/response - whatever crap you wanna call it - many will be using this stuff anyway

o-ring nozzle but ensure it is exactly the same length or stay on original if unsure - a smidge too long and feed trouble, too short loss of fps/seal

(so if fitting an o-ring nozzle too short and lose fps you may as well stick with stock nozzle)

delay clip most likely will help

 

neodym motor - say shs torque is a good choice pulling stuff with a good increase over stock motors but there will come a point where speed becomes a problem and more work and more problems occur as you go on....

 

lame stock guns fire 13 to 15rps out of box aprox......

now you can get these near 20 by using 11.1v lipo but mosfet is wise consideration over time

or

powerful motor eg: shs torque neodym - but will get starved a bit on stock small tamiya - so deans

 

BUT do not combine neodym motor & 11.1v straight away - yes you will be getting high twenties but risk smashing f*ck out of box

Pre Engagement will take place as you get near 30rps on a stock gun with a stock m100 spring

I'll end repeating myself over and over again......

 

I would suggest - sticking on stock gears tbh - why coz you wanna learn to crawl/walk before you try to run/sprint

You can still hit a decent rof, your motor won't struggle and need a stronger one straight away

You fit a mosfet/rewire/deans etc.... now you can run 11.1v if seeking more speed

 

Look - think/decide just how fast you wanna go but most on here stick to twenty's as we have learnt:

Twenty's is plenty & it will last and nearly all mags - even crappy cheap high caps will feed fine

When you try to run 30+ lots of trouble and increased wear & failure tends to take place

 

Also good players do not need to overkill and hose people down - yes response n stuff is great

but it is the player's awareness & response not the gun's rof that usually wins the game

Great thanks will look into that thank you. ☺

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Wise words, I always say the same to people when they ask me about high rof.

You only need 1 or 2 rounds to get a player not 30. Work on your guns accuracy and when thats right work on the player.

Standing back and spraying rounds is always less effective than just getting in there and making sure you hit the target.

 

(bet you don't waffle as much as me though :))

 

This guys knows how to talk the talk and deffo can walk the walk as both tech and player

Samurai's wisdom and experience is way more than mine will ever be.....

 

Think we have all learnt - well think many of us are all still learning, but hopefully stopped learning the hard way a bit

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Wise words, I always say the same to people when they ask me about high rof.

You only need 1 or 2 rounds to get a player not 30. Work on your guns accuracy and when thats right work on the player.

Standing back and spraying rounds is always less effective than just getting in there and making sure you hit the target.

I agree both my guns have standard gears. Just want to make a high speed one for gun really ☺, ive heard white lithium Greece is good for gears. Is this true? Also I'm after a bit better trigger response from another gun I'm going to get s shs high torque motor at some point but in the mean time what is better a G&G stock motor or a classic army high torque motor. Cheers for your help guys

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if its a std G&G red motor.....

 

ANYTHING - a dildo motor has more grunt in it

(so I'm told)

 

some stock motors are a bit better than others like ICS ones seem a bit quicker than G&G stock ferrites

but don't buy one - get shs torque if buying new

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if its a std G&G red motor.....

 

ANYTHING - a dildo motor has more grunt in it

(so I'm told)

 

some stock motors are a bit better than others like ICS ones seem a bit quicker than G&G stock ferrites

but don't buy one - get shs torque if buying new

A standard one form a cm16 raider and yes it is really pants lol

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Wise words, I always say the same to people when they ask me about high rof.

You only need 1 or 2 rounds to get a player not 30. Work on your guns accuracy and when thats right work on the player.

Standing back and spraying rounds is always less effective than just getting in there and making sure you hit the target.

Why my primaries are DMRs and Bolties

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I agree both my guns have standard gears. Just want to make a high speed one for gun really ☺, ive heard white lithium Greece is good for gears. Is this true? Also I'm after a bit better trigger response from another gun I'm going to get s shs high torque motor at some point but in the mean time what is better a G&G stock motor or a classic army high torque motor. Cheers for your help guys

Lithium grease is fine just dont go overboard with it. I prefer a red lithium complex as its a bit thicker and creates a better seal in the cylinder.

As for the motors I have never used a CA motor so don't have a clue.

Shs and Zci motors are pretty cheap.

I can vouch for shs personally and zci I have never used but reviews are good.

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Yeah but we were talking about good players

Only joking, hows life in Murica?

Edit; Its a shame you wasn't in the country for the private game you would of loved it.

:(... Yea, I bet. Life here is, well, normal. A lot warmer. It's sitting mid-upper 20s © here, and it's winter... Airsoft here is good, but different. Made good relations with my local(ish) shop (they are still a 3 hour drive from me), and already making my name known around Florida Airsoft. The Mall's still my favorite site though. I keep turning down offers to play CQB here as I know I'll hate it in comparison.

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