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20ChickenNuggets

Tappet Plates

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I opened up my cxp-hog the other night with split gearbox, and had alot of trouble putting it back together. I removed, moved or changed nothing before trying to put it back together. I was simply curious to see inside.

 

I think it was the tappet plate pushing against the gears. Could this be possible? I could see a slightly chewed piece of plastic that seems to fit in between the gears. Wise to replace?

 

The gun is all back together but I had to manually turn the gears slightly for this "piece" to fit. The gun fires as before, so presume all is well for now.

 

All help appreciated!

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You need to have the sector's gears at the bottom and the tappet cam/lug at about 2 o'clock

(on a normal gearbox)

 

But being an ICS m4 v2 gearbox is split what you should be aiming for is last tooth on sector gear dissappeared

so that it has fully released piston - in this state the teeth on sector gear sit at 10 to 4 and cam for tappet is at 3 o'clock

That way the tappet cam is nowhere near tappet at all.....

 

Yes as long as no sector gear's teeth are showing you can clip the gearbox back together

but if the teeth are just starting to come around again - say sector's teeth at 20 to 2 o'clock

then the tappet cam is nearly at 12 o'clock and will be showing a fair bit of resistance

 

so ideally get teeth showing - then you should be able to pull the sector's teeth backwards to rear of box until last tooth disappears

This should be at 10 to 4 and as long as no teeth are showing upwards then the 2 piece v2 box will plop back together with no tappet grief

 

uhm - hope this kinda makes sense - yes 1/4 to 3 will be ok too but past that point the tappet is starting to get pulled back

This was probably a bit of resistance if you was say 20 to 2 o'clock

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f*ck it - pic says 1,000 words:

 

71QRGuG.jpg

poxy pic wouldn't copy over so had to upload to imgur crap

others pics were a bit too far back and tappet cam could be starting to pull back tappet plate

(bit of resistance or risk of damage - ics good design but not completely fool proof)

 

maybe perhaps a tiny tiny bit more backwards but just a smidge to ensure last tooth is a whisker more clear of piston = perfection

 

oh and make something idiot proof...

Life then creates a better idiot

 

as you guessed the teeth was starting to reappear so tappet cam was shifting to say 1 or 12 o'clock and as you clipped box back

you was feeling the tappet or rather the tappet spring's resistance pulling the tappet backwards

 

Wait until you open your first normal gearbox and springs n gears n $hit shoot EVERYWHERE !!!!!

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Thank you for your reply.

 

Am I OK in manually turning the gears? It felt a bit child like forcing and tugging things, but it ended in what I wanted.

 

I'm going to have another look tonight, with your info in hand, or on screen.

 

I believe I can follow what you have said, so thanks for the help!

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It's fine turning them by hand as it's what I do when putting it back together & to simplify what was said, have no teeth facing up & you'll be fine. The little nub on the gear may engage a little on the tappet plate by pushing it back but that's also fine

 

1 other thing & it requires the lower gear box to be stripped down & that's to put a delay chip on the sector gear where the little nub is.

It will pull the tappet plate back a little further & hold it back a little longer which will/should stop 2 bb's feeding together

 

Watch YouTube for video tutorials & you'll be fine. for the fiddly little springs & placement of everything, take close photos as you remove one piece at a time

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Yes - as above, the lower gears need to be aligned correctly to close it. You can turn them manually or a couple of trigger pulls on semi usually does it. Whatever you do, don't force it closed or you will damage something!

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The good thing about a split gearbox is when you open the lower box, nothing will go ping everywhere as there's no piston spring to do so :)

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Cheers guys, I definitely understand what is going on now, as I opened and closed it multiple times throughout yesterday night whilst looking at what I can upgrade.

 

Thanks again!

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Don't upgrade anything until you lose significant FPS or something breaks

 

I upgraded things before they broke & spent a good few months putting things right in all my rifles

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All I've ordered so far is a 6.03mm tightbore and suppressor to cover the additional length. My inner barrel is quite short, and I play mostly CQB but woodland always pops up once in a while and i find I need that last bit of range. I was told a longer inner barrel would help this?

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Not always mate, a longer barrel can make things worse, from what I understand the barrel length pretty much has to match the cylinder

 

I was toying with the idea of having a separate upper receiver for my ICS as I sometimes play CQB but I have a rifle for that

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I was toying with the idea of having a separate upper receiver for my ICS as I sometimes play CQB but I have a rifle for that

 

Pretty much what I do! If I spot a cheap ICS upper, upper gearbox, hop, inner/outer barrel etc. on forums I buy them up till I have enough bits to make a whole upper. I've got 3 ICS lowers and 5 or 6 uppers (I forget!) so plenty of combinations :)

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Pretty much what I do! If I spot a cheap ICS upper, upper gearbox, hop, inner/outer barrel etc. on forums I buy them up till I have enough bits to make a whole upper. I've got 3 ICS lowers and 5 or 6 uppers (I forget!) so plenty of combinations :)

That's not bloody bad mate :) I'm toying with idea of getting an upper gearbox to make a DMR (as it's got a release catch) and fiddle with the selector plate to lock it in semi

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As far as I know (don't own an ICS but will do very soon) the gun needs to be put into safe or potentially the forward assist needs pressing to release the gear tension and set the gearbox into a state where it can be split and go back together. Its a problem particular to ICS and this split gearbox, the normal whole gear box has the other problem of pieces flying about when opened and its under tension!

 

PS Long barrels != range or accuracy in airsoft. Lengthening the barrel for a DMR will also mean you need a new cylinder to match the air volume, you can't just do the look as it will impact performance of the gun and its accuracy to not match the air volume.

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As far as I know (don't own an ICS but will do very soon) the gun needs to be put into safe or potentially the forward assist needs pressing to release the gear tension and set the gearbox into a state where it can be split and go back together. Its a problem particular to ICS and this split gearbox, the normal whole gear box has the other problem of pieces flying about when opened and its under tension!

 

PS Long barrels != range or accuracy in airsoft. Lengthening the barrel for a DMR will also mean you need a new cylinder to match the air volume, you can't just do the look as it will impact performance of the gun and its accuracy to not match the air volume.

I went from 263mm to 407mm covering excess with a 190mm suppressor. Just under 150mm extension. Can you see this posing any problems? Most have said it will be OK.

 

Also, I thought that a split gearbox (I.e. no parts to spring out) would have something unique that needs doing before opening up. I've had problems with it firing twice and fully auto in semi, so maybe this is what caused the gears to be out of place as it was definitely on safe, and is always left on safe.

 

On top of that, my trigger now clicks in semi as if its catching on the "safe" mechanism. I can see it physically catching with minimal pressure, then with the slightest but more pressure it jumps over the piece of metal it is catching on.

 

Anyways, I digress... Thanks for all of your comments community! Admins, apologies if this should be taken onto a new thread with it now been off topic.

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I went from 263mm to 407mm covering excess with a 190mm suppressor. Just under 150mm extension. Can you see this posing any problems? Most have said it will be OK.

 

Also, I thought that a split gearbox (I.e. no parts to spring out) would have something unique that needs doing before opening up. I've had problems with it firing twice and fully auto in semi, so maybe this is what caused the gears to be out of place as it was definitely on safe, and is always left on safe.

 

On top of that, my trigger now clicks in semi as if its catching on the "safe" mechanism. I can see it physically catching with minimal pressure, then with the slightest but more pressure it jumps over the piece of metal it is catching on.

 

Anyways, I digress... Thanks for all of your comments community! Admins, apologies if this should be taken onto a new thread with it now been off topic.

 

 

263 to 407 is a fair jump - 263 to 307 no problem but longer barrel will require more air volume - even on a tbb

the port on cylinder should be further back to increase air volume - my gut feeling is that it may be under volumed

but only way is to suck it n see when it shoots - this is figure of speech btw - don't shoot your mouth off

 

firing twice - double firing - misfeeding and other crap are slightly different problems

 

if the gun is cycling twice then either there is a lot of juice flowing to it like 11.1v

or gun's cut off lever is not operating correctly - or other problems around that area

 

What really needs to happen is a 6ft bold warning to owners not to force the gun's trigger in semi at any point !!!

There is a point where going from auto to semi the cut off lever can still be partially raised and the way most aeg's are

the trigger switch trolley won't slip into position correctly coz lever is slightly raised

the lever slips under trolley so it can lift and disengage on semi but it can't sometimes if can came to rest in this "dead zone"

Normally just flick to auto - fire a quick burst and then it should operate in semi just dandy as it should

other times it is owner releasing trigger smidge too early, the gun doesn't park correctly but stops short of its full cycle in dead zone

flick to auto and don't release trigger so early on semi next time - trigger discipline etc.....

 

If people force the trigger in this dead zone - $hit will break or wear very quickly....

the switch itself is plastic and it has ridges where the metal trigger system latches onto it, switch lifts up on semi

flies back and releasing trigger will then re-latch onto it to fire again...

Forcing it will wear away the small little 1.5mm to 2mm ridge at most very quickly or round the edges off

and eventually trolley at least will need replacing

 

SO DON'T F*CKING FORCE TRIGGER - not aimed at you but this is for all people who think give it a wallop will fix it - it WON'T

 

As to your problem on it jumping - try the auto a few times and see if the gun works on semi...

hopefully it was stuck on dead zone - also you have forward assist button but tbh this probably won't roll back the gun

as spring shouldn't be compressed in dead zone - so the flick to auto - quick burst and try semi again

 

if still borked, then afraid the trigger switch, cut off lever or selector plate may not be operating correctly and will need investigating

which will involve gearbox - lower gearbox removal and strip down.....

 

Strongly suggest if this is the case - fire support as they walk on water for ICS

they can quickly fix the problem and probably at same time drop in a cylinder ported for the longer barrel at same time

 

once sorted - all owners in particular new owners please learn not to force triggers stuck in dead zone and at first sign

think and refire the gun before giving it extra force thinking that will sort it - it just wears or breaks the gun's trigger quicker

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Quick update on what I said above, I got a chance to use it yesterday (if anyone is interested):

 

No click from trigger at all anymore.

324fps to 330fps with new barrel.

No more double feeding (Using 7.4vs compared to 11.1vs is the only change)

 

Cheers for all the comments, every bit helped!

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