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AJWest

customising Ares amoeba AM-014

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hello all

 

I've searched on here and google and youtube for an answer to this question but have so far had no luck in getting a decent answer so have had to start a new topic.

 

I'm thinking of treating myself to a new gun in the new year and this is one of the candidates, however I do not like the look of the internal suppressor/ rail, I love the stock and it seems like a decent gun but I was wondering if there were any owners on here that could help me. I was wondering if there was an outer barrel inside the rail/suppressor or is it just hollow if that makes sense. I was thinking about changing out the rail to a keymod system or similar then having a normal outer barrel inside that rail system or just leaving the stock rail and having a plain outer barrel and flash hider instead of the suppressor.

 

I don't think the ameoba stock is interchangeable with other guns hence why I'm not thinking of getting a plain M4 and sticking one of those on it but I stand to be corrected on that.

 

as always any help is appreciated guys

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Hey,

I own an AM0-14, happy to (try) help.

I've not taken it to pieces yet, but you can unscrew the end of the suppressor and it does reveal the barrel on in the inside of it - they do state the barrels length goes to the end of the suppressor. The rest of the suppressor doesn't screw off, least not from what I've managed.

The stock of the ameoba is integrated with the back end of the gun, and so it's not easily interchangeable, I guess if you really wanted you could remove it and just stick an alternative on, not sure how it'd look.

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I've just ordered AM-013 and since ordering I have decided to change a few bits over. One of the first will be swapping the front rail with that of the Octarms with Keymod rail. As they are either slightly longer or shorter than the rail on the badger, I will probably look at getting a slightly longer barrel to compensate.

Will get a small build thread going of the work once I get it started.

Open to any other good mod suggestions for the honey badger.

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Glad I found this Thread as I was just going to post on the possibility of changing the stock on my AM-13 as I dislike the current one the gun uses. It seems to use a similar fitting on the back but hasn't got a buffer tube like M4's I have seen previously so not sure on if this is possible (recommendations wanted).

 

I am starting to strip the gun apart as I type to look at the rail system but I cannot remove the upper receiver from the front rail, does anyone know how to do this?

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I managed to get the break down from ARES directly. They are very helpful and quick to reply.

PM me if you want the PDF copy. It is the exact same diagram given in the instruction booklet.

 

I agree, and would want to change my stock as well. Not looked into it, so be interesting to see what others have done?

 

Anyone had theirs chrono'd. Had mine done on the first few shots (Spring not bedded in yet) and came out at 290ish. Was expecting 340+, at least now I don't have to worry about downgrading to meet site limits. Maybe even upgrade to an M100.

 

So far, very happy with it!

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So my upgrading of my AM-013 has started.

 

Fitted a Guarder SP100 spring which took my FPS up to 320.

Also fitted the uprated bearing spring guide from ARES. (Don't think any others will fit due to the screw in mechanism)

 

I have ordered a prowin hop unit and a Maple leaf Monster Hop rubber (60°) so they will go in once arrived. (Using 0.25 ammo)

 

Now looking to change my guard rail to a keymod Octarms rail. Not decided on length yet as the AM-013 rail is 277mm long and going for either the 10" (254mm) or 12" (305mm).

At the same time I plan to upgrade the inner barrel. I know stock they come with 6.03, but probably not the best quality one, so looking at Prometheus or similar. (Trying to improve grouping / accuracy)

 

Has anyone changed the inner barrel on these? Stock barrel is 313mm long and ends at the top of the mock silencer. Unfortunately I cant find any 3rd party barrels that are 313mm, so would probably end up going slightly longer and opting for the 12" hand rail.

 

Open to any suggestions or recommendations on the above.

 

Finally, what effect would replacing the air nozzle have? There are many options on the market, and wondering if they actually have any effect? Again, I can get my hands on a steel version by Ares marketed as an uprated nozzle for M4/M16.

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Finally, what effect would replacing the air nozzle have? There are many options on the market, and wondering if they actually have any effect? Again, I can get my hands on a steel version by Ares marketed as an uprated nozzle for M4/M16.

 

If your original nozzle doesn't have an o-ring seal, then change it to one that does. A steel nozzle may well be heavier than the OE so personally I wouldn't (more likely to chop up BBs too if it gets a bit out of whack).

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So, I received my prowin hop unit and installed it over the weekend. One issue though. As the original hop unit uses a solid arm to push into the bucking, there was no small rubber nub to fit under the new arm to push into the bucking on the prowin unit.

 

Ive currently installed it with the original arm, but not had a chance to test fire yet.

The hop rubber I have is the maple leaf monster hop 60deg.

Can anyone recommend where I can get the small round nub from to put under the bucking arm? Alternatively a suitable bucking that comes with the rubber nub.

 

Thanks

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So, I received my prowin hop unit and installed it over the weekend. One issue though. As the original hop unit uses a solid arm to push into the bucking, there was no small rubber nub to fit under the new arm to push into the bucking on the prowin unit.

 

Ive currently installed it with the original arm, but not had a chance to test fire yet.

The hop rubber I have is the maple leaf monster hop 60deg.

Can anyone recommend where I can get the small round nub from to put under the bucking arm? Alternatively a suitable bucking that comes with the rubber nub.

 

Thanks

 

 

I'd say either go for a fancy aftermarket nub or get a prometheus purple bucking and use it with the nub it comes with. If you're feeling particularly cheap though, cut a little bit off the end of a biro refill and use that instead (might be a bit hard though).

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OK, So I ordered a small nub to use. Shaped like a tiny dumb bell (H) and fitted.

Now the gun seems to jam quite often and only fires with the hop turned almost all the way down. Probably any more than 10% causes BB's to jam inside the hop.

Also, the mag is now a lot tighter to put in and when removing it drops 4-5 bb's. This is up from the original 3 it dropped with original parts.

 

Can any of this be due to the hop rubber? As mentioned above, the hop rubber is maple leaf monster hop 60° in a prowin hop unit.

 

BB's being used are 0.25 Blaster's

 

Any advice be good. Don't feel comfortable taking it out to skirmish with fear of regular jams.

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anyone have any recommendations regarding the above?

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Sounds like you haven't put it back together quite right. The hop unit probably isn't sitting right which will cause the mag and feeding issues.

H nubs work best with a flat hop try using a normal nub, if you dont have any pm me and I will send you a couple.

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Thanks for the offer. Ive not had much free time, but will trip the gun back down and re-assemble to see if I get it working properly. If I still get issues, I might take you up on the offer of a standard nub.

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Had some time over the weekend to strip the gun back down to replace the front hand guard with one of the Amoeba key mod hand guards. Unfortunately they do not fit over the mock suppressor, so anyone wanting to do the upgrade will need a longer outer barrel and a new tip as the suppressor would need to be completely removed.

 

Anyone recommend what is best to fill the empty void of the mock suppressor to give it some suppressing properties? Ideally would like something a bit solid that I can easily remove and refit if the inner barrel is removed.

Alternatively, I thought of just using cotton wool?

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Anyone recommend what is best to fill the empty void of the mock suppressor to give it some suppressing properties? Ideally would like something a bit solid that I can easily remove and refit if the inner barrel is removed.

Alternatively, I thought of just using cotton wool?

You do realise that suppressors/silencers dont actually do anything on airsoft guns. You can fill it with what you like it makes no difference.

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Sorry, had a bit of a mind laps. Guess on the Amoeba it wont make a difference as the inner barrel goes straight thought the suppressor. Suppressors that fit onto the end of the barrels with foam inserts do supress the noise as the BB leaves the inner barrel, the foam absorbs some of the noise from the air rush that follows.

It has made a very noticeable noise difference on my L96 when firing with or without one. But as mentioned, guess the one I have on the Ares will have no effect due to the inner barrel passing completely through the suppressor.

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