Supporters sp00n Posted March 16, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 16, 2016 epic, that is pretty cool dude. How long to print one at the lower height? and how much would it cost? its kinda hard too see but the base of the ris is only 7mm clear of the foresight. i could thin the ris off abit, but that may make it weak (i am not a full time design engineer) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 could you put a grove under the upper rail that allows the foresight to slide through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 16, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 16, 2016 something abit like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 how are you going to sort a stock for shouldering it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 16, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 16, 2016 it would have to be a redesign to be honest, but it will all mount off the front rail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 ahh ok. How much would the lowered rail cost if you were able to make one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 16, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 16, 2016 Pm'ed ya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 something abit like this this was the one I meant :-) ....... but would you be able to bring the top rail back to the middle of the gun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 16, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 16, 2016 Doh lol I'll have a look, it's in the same place as the higher mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 would you be able to bring it back about 2cm and give it a full length rail stopping at the rear sight bump in the upper receiver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted March 16, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 16, 2016 I printed this for a fellow airsofter on arnies.Aug-M4 mag adapter from thingiverse, but had to be fixed. proffrink and sp00n 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doad13 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 How do the rounds feed through that mag adapter? Is the hole drilled or just printed with that there? You don't happen to have an x-ray view of the design? I been working on aligning two feed points and I'm unsure on what radius to give to prevent a jam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted March 17, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 17, 2016 You don't happen to have an x-ray view of the design? Here you'll find the cross section too. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:620955 That's the original. My fixed version is this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1420730 You can put quite sharp curves in the BB path. Check a 30bb shotgun shell for example. As long as the curve is smooth, you're fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doad13 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Cheers for the links and thanks for the info on the curve. That's what I thought the smoother it is the less resistance it will get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 My 3D printed bolt just arrived, others have had mega issues but I think it was due to them buying the lower quality non polished versions, mine just needed the holes drilling out and lubing up and seems so far pretty much perfect. Has quietened the gun a bit (although that might be in my head) and is much snappier now. I'll have to see how much better it is on gas usage but hoping it'll help with efficiency. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twice19 Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 MK23 lower rail adapters (still a work in progress) ... just printing what i hope to be the final version... Would you consider printing these to order, Sp00n?I've been looking around for a decent RIS mount for my SOCOM for a while. I'd happily pay (within reason of course!) for one of these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 22, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 22, 2016 I use PTC Creo elements to design. This is not a parametric CAD but maybe that's why it is really-really easy to use and has the most features from the free softwares I tried. And I tried them all. The only downside is that it can't import/export common CAD formats, but it can export to stl. i tried that software last night, but i cannot get it to import .stl files Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted March 22, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 22, 2016 i tried that software last night, but i cannot get it to import .stl files It can't. Stl are mesh formats. It has 3d points and triangles to define the shape. CAD formats are different and can't be created from meshes. For example you create an arch instead of a sharp corner, CAD knows it's an arch and you can change the radius later or just delete the arch and it will give you the sharp corner. In a mesh an arch is just a series of lines, the software doesn't know about any radiuses, etc. CAD software can export to stl meshes. They then approximate the object with 3d points and triangles. You can manipulate meshes in sketchup or meshmixer for example. Many CADs can import meshes and display them in 3d but they can't modify them with their usual tools. Then you can design your cad object using the mesh as reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 22, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 22, 2016 Much as I like tinkercad for its simplicity, I do think I need to be using something more powerful now. But something that I can edit my existing designs etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 23, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 23, 2016 Ever wondered what a PSO-1 would look like on a VSR??? well wonder no more! with the brand new UG1Y design adapter you need worry no more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacarathe Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Could this be 3d printed and glued to a threaded cylinder? Or alternatively, I'll buy a thread protector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PT247 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 generally speaking 3D prints can't really print a thread, the plastic is soft enough to cut a thread into it though by gently screwing it on. If you like that type of thing in your link (as do I) what about the Silverback SRS flash hider/thread protector from the 16" SRS:http://www.bunnyworkshop.com.hk/airsoft/Silverback---14mm-negative-thread-protection?keyword=silverback I like it so much I bought 2, one for each of my Krytacs! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters sp00n Posted March 31, 2016 Author Supporters Share Posted March 31, 2016 Printing the thread is impossible with my 3D printer It could be printed then drilled and tapped, but I do not possess the correct 14mm tap (and I am unsure if it's a fine or super fine thread atm) But like you have said It could be glued in place, all I would need is a basic drawing (length, diameter, is the hole bigger on side etc etc) Edit PT beat me too it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporters Samurai Posted March 31, 2016 Supporters Share Posted March 31, 2016 I have printed flash hiders with 14 ccw threads on my prusa i3. The only complication is that you have to adjust to your printer and slicer. Could this be 3d printed and glued to a threaded cylinder? Or alternatively, I'll buy a thread protector. What do you need exactly? Probably I can help. Sacarathe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacarathe Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 I have printed flash hiders with 14 ccw threads on my prusa i3. The only complication is that you have to adjust to your printer and slicer. What do you need exactly? Probably I can help. Well, objectively speaking I don't need anything. But I wouldn't mind a custom flash hider which is basically a solid cylinder with three smaller cylinders bored into it. The solid cylinder fits inside the RIS(not further than 2 cm behind the threads), the first bore is wide enough for the outer barrel, the 2nd is threaded (or contains metal threads glued in) and the third is to take the BB. Effectively making the gun end 5mm after the inter barrel, which itself ends 1mm after the threaded outer barrel, which sits 1cm past the RIS. Tapering the end pointing towards the receiver would be nice too. This is a description, not a design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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