Jump to content

my last noob question i promise


sol1821
This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and possibly forgotten) topic.

Recommended Posts

Ok so first thing is to just ring a supplier like zerooneairsoft and ask as they will have what you want for a decent price.

alternativley from a quick youtube check u could get a 7.4 v lipo with deans connectors that way you should be safe when it comes to internals.

I have an ics m4a1 carbine wich is the same gun practicly exept the recoil and if the battery goes in the front handguard like mine i have got 9.6v mini twin battery or u could get a 8.4v mini which i think is the recommended.

 

u could also get a different stock and rewire ure gun to the rear stock and use pencil battery's

 

im not all that knowledgable when it comes to batterys but if ya get either the lipo with deans or the 8.4v mini im sure u will be fine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I woudnt get a Lipo so early on if i was you... They require alot of attention

 

Just go with a standerd 8.4 or 9.6 and you will be fine

 

The Batt will go in the handguard so you looking for a Mini type

 

Compant-Shop Is a good place to look :)

 

http://www.component-shop.co.uk/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

now i would go for a lipo in there, no more hassle than nimh batteries, B6 lipo charger bout £25 off the bay and 7.4v 2100mah £17

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • AF-UK Founding Member

The discharge on a LiPo is much higher than the standard NiMh - the one mentioned above I should imagine can provide at least 40A peak where as what I linked does around 25A which is a fair amount less.

 

Unless you know your gearbox can take it I simply wouldn't bother. I haven't looked into/already know about this one so leave it up to you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you look after it properly the lipo will probably be better, however like dev said if you don't know if your gear box can take it don't bother. As I explained on another topic Lipos will break if they reach zero battery but usualy perform better throughout the day than normal batteries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the one of component shop is 2100 25c and is 52.5A continuous, 78A burst way more than gun would require, but would last a full days playing, a 7.4 lipo is about the same as a 9.6nimh, so will run fine in gun but have a quicker trigger responce

 

 

 

but G&G web site shows the gun having a split battery so id go for the 7.4V 2200mAh Cranestock battery, even the 1200mah would do for £10

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • AF-UK Founding Member
the one of component shop is 2100 25c and is 52.5A continuous, 78A burst way more than gun would require, but would last a full days playing, a 7.4 lipo is about the same as a 9.6nimh, so will run fine in gun but have a quicker trigger responce

 

 

 

but G&G web site shows the gun having a split battery so id go for the 7.4V 2200mAh Cranestock battery, even the 1200mah would do for £10

 

A 9.6v NiMh provides about the same sort of ampage that the 8.4 does. The reason it gives higher ROF is the higher voltage pushes the current faster. (I know you didn't say that it did provide more or less but I just wanted to make things clear)

 

KWA have been boasting that they can take LiPo's for a while now but if you go on there forum they will still recommend that you don't go over 25A, and their guns generally sell for more than the item in question.

 

Just my opinion :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just go for 9.6V 2000 MAH mini type like i have and it gives a decent rate of fire and if fully charged it will last you all day under regular auto fire but i would buy two incase! i have the split type with 2x4.8v each side and this is a tight fit but it works well!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...