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battery plugs and warranty


ikarma70
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the gun developed a fire selector fault(full auto wouldn't let the trigger operate), I did change the plugs but that's all.

the supplier is refusing to sort the aps yar out unless I pay to hav it sent to Japan and to have the wiring replaced... 3 months wait too including labour charges!

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As I said the other day in another thread, some retailers say their warranty to you is voided if you open the gun up or make any mods.

 

Irs worth reading the warranty small print when you are looking to buy a rifle, as well as the price, availability etc.

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Just send of to aps for replacememt mosfet get frount one as back very long . I have this gun it is so easy to fix yourself . One screw. To remove from gun.

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the gun developed a fire selector fault(full auto wouldn't let the trigger operate), I did change the plugs but that's all.

the supplier is refusing to sort the aps yar out unless I pay to hav it sent to Japan and to have the wiring replaced... 3 months wait too including labour charges!

 

its China made overseen by HongKong Quality Control

 

roughly translated - $hit - but a little bit better $hit

 

http://www.aps-concept.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=4

 

 

Dont know the supplier bt the gun is an APS UAR

 

Eh? - s/hand or where/how did you come by this....

 

it is £100 to £120 gun - pull the box out - which you probably need to do to fit fet

I'll bet she fires on auto no problem out of gun

if so then that would indicate the selector/linkage is an area for investigating

 

fet fitting and checking selector can all be done without opening up box

and gun can be quickly tested on V3's

Some V3 switches can fail or require a little modification

but semi ok but not full-auto deffo sounds like selector plate or mechanism needs a once over....

 

Don't know for 101% sure as nozzle n stuff might be different

but worse possible case scenario I would say any other V3 AK box might fit in there as is

(but you wouldn't have quick change spring but it "might" work on auto etc and get gun going again until you get aps box looked at)

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yeah I suppose - think it has about a 400-ish barrel

but tbh a dmr would need a bit more work to hop & perhaps barrel

425-450fps is fine but need to make sure its flight is as true as possible

(more than normal aeg as you can't shoot below 25 or 30m MED - which is gonna be crap if bb's are all over the place/dropping short from not so good hop)

 

give it a go on dmr maybe but sooner or later you may have to investigate the main problem or improve upon stock hop for dmr etc....

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on V3's fitting a fet doesn't require opening up box as wiring is external

 

the negative wire that ran from battery to motor is cut and fet is wired into it

(fet switches negative supply to complete the switching circuit)

 

on the switch itself - 2 red leads one from battery and one to motor

these two wires are joined BUT on 1 terminal of switch

 

the spare unused terminal has a thinner wire running back to fet - the mosfet's signal wire

 

In effect instead of switch positive and had a permanent negative supply like old stock setup

you now have a permanent posi supply

a switched posi signal wire to fet which will trigger the fet and turn on/switch the negative supply to complete circuit/run the motor

 

NB - this is a very basic setup using existing wire with addition of just 1 thinner wire to signal to fet to switch on/off

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Guns come with fuses by default

and they should perhaps continue with fuses or themal fuses especially for general/first builds

 

On higher speed/load guns the old fashioned fuses act as a point of resistance on higher stress builds

so a number of people do away with them - BUT it is not advised unless you know your gun and prepared for the risk

 

I can't tell you or anybody else for that matter - the fuse is there as a safety/overload feature

doing away with it is not highly recomended

 

Some mosfets like the Firestorm is supposed to have a thermal fuse installed and should be fine to remove fuse if you wish

 

Other fet's do not have thermal fuse

 

The old fuse is on the positive wire anyway

if it was on the negative wire - then it might be ideal to replace fuse with mosfet

but fet runs on negative line plus a normal mosfet doesn't offer any protection against overload/short circuit etc....

so you may as well leave fuse as it is, splice into main negative line for mosfet and wire in a fet signal line from trigger to fet

 

Hope this answers your question - ignore what some others do

(I make a regular habit of busting stuff and can afford to replace broken cheap stuff)

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