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Dannn

Pdi 6.8mm

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I'm looking at getting a PDI 6.8 barrel as it seems that the slighter larger bore will help keep the trajectory of the bb straighter by giving it space to run along the top of the barrel, as apposed to contacting all the walls and effectively bouncing down the barrel and not leaving the muzzle perfectly straight...

Any input on these ideas ?

 

Edit... 6.08

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Are you sure that PDI do a 6.8? I know they do a 6.08 but that still constitutes a tight bore (or perhaps a 'normal' bore - if there's such a thing); I'd say a wide bore is anything over about .15.

 

The differences depend on AEG or GBBR (whether you have an NPAS or it's HPA rigged) and what sort of barrel length you're going for. The overall difference though is that of range at the cost of efficiency (so a lower FPS). Personally I'm putting wide bore barrels in everything that isn't a pistol these days so long as I'm happy with a substantial FPS drop (which I find can be compensated for with other parts), but if it's a stock gun then the likelihood is that a tight bore is going to be a better choice for you. It really can depend. If it's a pistol then the answer is always going to be 'no', because frankly the difference will be negligible in such a short space (if you want accuracy in a pistol then go for a TK Twist barrel and a Laylax purple VSR bucking).

 

AFAIK, the only well known manufacturers of what I'd call 'true' wide bore barrels are Prometheus/Laylax/First (with their 6.20 Delta Strike) and ORGA with their Magnus 6.23. I own both, but I've not fitted the ORGA one - I can report back once I've given it a shot (ehehe). The Delta Strike seems fine, but the plastic hope window (meant for r-hopping) was a bad call in the majority of cases, and requires a lot of work to make sure a proper air tight seal is present between the hope up rubber, plastic hop window and brass barrel. It is far cheaper than the ORGA Magnus though (costs about 60% of the price).

 

tl;dr If you can afford to lose ~30-50 FPS (or make up for that loss elsewhere) and are prepared to flat hop/R-Hop then do it; If you can't then stick with a tight bore.

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It's a 247 mm barrel in a g36c...

So likely hood is that I'll loose approx 40 fps? I guess that's ok given the better accuracy and rps I'll get with my upgrades

I'm looking at upgrading everything else in it so I can put a m130 or m130 in it to bring the fps back up to local limits if I loose that much anyway

It seems people say the tighter the better, but looking in to whe whys and where's of tight bore it seems that tight bite is just for maximum fps not maximum accuracy ?

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Wide bore stuff is mostly foreign, that's why. It's also hella expensive to do right (because you will need other upgrades and time to make it work properly).

 

Basically it originated in Japan (like most Airsoft stuff) where their site limits are very rigid (indeed, lawbinding) and rather low (regardless of auto, semi or bolt action. People started upgrading to wide bore barrels and offsetting the loss in FPS to bring their guns back up to legal limits (and benefiting hugely from significantly increased range). In the UK we don't really have that problem to such an extent - most people just want their FPS to be a bit higher for a bit less drop-off. There are so many tight bore manufacturers out there these days that the barrels are very cheap and generally of very good quality so most people go for them.

 

But yeh, tighter is not always better and anyone that tells you that has probably never bought anything buy cheapo TBBs. It is true that for many tight bore is better, but if you are going to put the effort into a new nozzle, cylinder, spring, gears, battery, motor, hop and barrel then wide bore will win on range and accuracy. Granted that you're also happy to R-Hop it (or use some other flat hop).

 

And yep, you're completely right - tight bore is about gas (be that air or propane or anything else) efficiency and spitting that BB out at the highest speed possible, but BBs so rattle in the barrel no matter how close to 6.00 you get and that's why flyers and other things happen. I can't comment on how much speed you'd lose, but it will be significant.

 

Just don't upgrade only your spring or you'll have a very bad day indeed when something else chooses to fail catastrophically during a skirmish. You will also need a new nozzle/cylinder for higher output anyway and a new motor to drive that spring. Probably the only thing you could get away with not doing is changing the gears, but make sure you're well shimmed. Basically, be ready to commit a lot of time and money to a wide bore barrel or don't bother - It's a lot of hassle. Many people haven't the expertise, time or cash to deal with this and so they just go down the tight bore route (which does give a clear improvement in performance for very little work or money).

 

Many will also claim that tight bores 'give better accuracy': This is very true over a stock barrel in your average AEG (which tends to be made from pot metal) but almost every aftermarket barrel (no matter how cheap) is going to be smoother and made to tighter tolerances than the one in something stock - thus resulting in improved accuracy.

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That's the current plan

Lonex Complete Gearbox

Lonex Bushings:

Lonex G36 Hop Up Unit:

PDI Barrel: -6-08mm-precision-steel-barrel 247mm

Prometheus Bucking:

HSA M-nub:

Lonex Titan motor

New spring...m120-130 not sure yet...

 

11v Lopo and mosfet

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Sounds good. A PDI 6.08 isn't a wide bore or a tight bore though really. Maybe consider one of their 6.02s or .01s? It would mean that you don't have to use such a powerful spring, which would ease things off the motor and gears a bit, leaving you open to a higher ROF if you wanted it.

 

Edit:

Also, that Laylax flat(?) bucking and nub may be better suited to an R-hopped system, in which case the 6.08 is probably a better call. Hmm - choices.

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Sounds good. A PDI 6.08 isn't a wide bore or a tight bore though really. Maybe consider one of their 6.02s or .01s? It would mean that you don't have to use such a powerful spring, which would ease things off the motor and gears a bit, leaving you open to a higher ROF if you wanted it.

 

Edit:

Also, that Laylax flat(?) bucking and nub may be better suited to an R-hopped system, in which case the 6.08 is probably a better call. Hmm - choices.

The pdi 6.08 or 6.05 will out perform the tighter barrels. I find bucking and nub combos are very much in the eye of the beholder just try different things until you find one which seems to work.

Wouldnt go any higher than 90 or 100 spring other wise it will start going over site limits and forget the 11.1v lipo its not necessary.

What are you actually aiming for with the build?

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I got a Prommy 6.20mm WBB which is 230mm long if it is of interest to you?

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Dont run a 11.1v lipo then. The gearset and motor will give you a decent trigger response and reasonable rate of fire. You dont need to shoot 35 rnds a second just make sure the first couple are on target.

 

The PDI 6.08 or 6.05 are a good choice and wont affect the fps from standard. You will need either a m90 or m100 spring depending on your compression.

 

If you want a good bucking nub combo try either a Firefly bucking and a flat nub or a Maple leaf bucking and nub.

 

To be honest though I wouldn't do anything regarding the gearbox and motor until the originals break. All the money and upgrades to your gun wont improve your play much just playing regularly and improving your skills is the main thing.

The most important upgrade is the player themselves.

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PDI do make really good barrels, expensive but decent. However Hunterseeker5 has been saying that they are still far from perfectly smooth, while they make them straight they still seem to lack the polish finish you need for the best accuracy. So along with the barrel I would recommend getting a hunterseeker armouries lap kit as well (air lab) and that can be used to smooth up the surface to a mirror finish.

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