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Motor for M120 spring


Chopper92
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Hi all,

 

just upgraded the spring in my SR25 to a M120 and wondered if the current motor in it will be able to handle the power of the new spring?

Its an original G&G motor 18000 RPM (Long Type).

Will i need to upgrade this or is it good enough to do the job?

ive attached pics of the motor for reference.

post-10999-0-53163100-1432920865_thumb.jpg

post-10999-0-90479800-1432920875_thumb.jpg

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try it and see? It will almost certainly be noticably slower though.

 

Something like a SHS Hi-torque motor would probably be a better bet though.

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I had that same motor in my L85. Pretty poor rof if I'm honest. I replaced it with a lonex a2 which kicks arse and doubled the rate of fire. Cost me about £50.

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It seems to cycling fine, not to worried about the ROF atm as the SR25 only has semi-auto anyway. Will probably upgrade it in due course down to reliability but will so how it goes. Any suggestions apart from the above on decent motors?

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SHS torque or Big Dragon M160 - best mental motors under £30

(seriously will keep up with much more expensive motors)

ensure your box's AOE, shimming and wiring/fet is up to it coz they rip like f*ck - seriously your box better be running well

(haven't had a BD M160 apart but SHS motor is built very well - messing with my own frankentorque shs atm)

 

BD M160 I rate as the best out there but will take 3 weeks+ to arrive

but have got very good results so I will get some more

(alas airsoft peak / tinywind did have some offers going but I missed the boat - again)

 

your G&G one isn't that bad on stock - ferrite motor

motors can be shimmed to get magnets closer to armeture but not really worth it on ferrite (black magnets)

Neo motors have ultra strong earth motors - silver/chrome in there and are very very hard to turn by hand

 

The windings or TPA varies - lower windings = speed

higher windings = more torque but less speed

 

finding the right figure or balance is tricky, Big Dragon M140 is ok but doesn't offer much speed mainly torque over stock motors

and for the extra few dollars the M160 really transforms into mental raw power in both areas

 

the M120 version don't buy at all - a clone of G&P and the BD M120 is ferrite so performace is onlt as good as a really good ferrite

 

For what it is worth - ZCI SHS and I think BD's are made at same factory or with same/similar parts

just windings may vary on the different motor models I am lead to believe

(I'm not that sad I'm gonna rip and review all motors - jeez just buy another ffs)

 

if you want a motor then AK2M4 has some good balanced ZCI M4 long neodym motors he was doing at about £22 and ships bloody fast

give him a pm and he might be able help you very quick & cheaply

 

MASSIVE WARNING.......

 

Directed to anybody thinking of just dropping in a big motor & battery..............

 

Do not just shove in a neodym motor and connect up a 11.1v lipo - ffs !!!!!

 

replacing a stock 13rps with a neo could get you up to about 20rps on 7.4v

if you connect a 11.1v lipo to that that is 50% more juice (3 cells instead of 2 cells on 7.4v)

this means you are gonna be aproaching 30rps on stock gears

 

Anywhere from 25+ you "could" get Pre Engagement and strip piston or smash f*ck out of your box if all steel teeth piston

I say 25+ it might be a tiny bit lower but deffo near 30 even on lighter pistons it will start to become risky on m100 springs

 

OP has a m120 that should return piston faster BUT he may have the longer 19 tooth SR25 piston

so travel is now 60mm instead of usual 50mm aprox

 

I strongly advise that when fitting a beefier motor the owner tests with a 7.4v lipo first !!!!

 

I have smashed hell out of plenty of box's to know that you can't just shove in a higher motor and 11.1v in

OOOOoooohhh this great - BANG !!!!!!!!

 

Test motor on 7.4v 25c lipo say - then multiply thar rof by 50% or 1.5 on ya fone

then decide if your own gun is safe to take a chance on pushing it much more

 

I will not be held responsible if anybody busts their gun - test on 7.4v first

and then YOU decide if your gun "might" be ok or not

 

Legal stuff:

 

Your gun may be at risk if you do not keep up with the work involved to go nutz

or any other work you aim to secure on it - past rate of fires are only a guideline

and may fluctuate depending or market variables outside of my control eg battery/wire/crap fet etc......

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