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Some help on inner barrels please people.


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I'm not sure on length but all 6 mm barrels will fit as its the inside dimension that's measured have a looks t mad bull barrels very good and not really their fairly easy to fit

It needs to be aeg specific, barrels have different cuts for different guns.

 

@op,get a mad bull or prometheus, preferably the latter- something around 280mm length will do.

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The T4-18 has a 293mm inner barrel IIRC. I suspect the CQB-R has a similar length. Probably best to measure it before you go about buying a replacement so you can be sure, because you can't just cut them down to size if its too long (as you need to crown it) and you can't just lengthen it if it ends up too short (and will mean your cylinder air volume will be too large impacting accuracy). So its best you get the right one and you are thus best measuring it.

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I have the same / Simillar ( T4 or TR4 ??? ) and fitted a 285mm Madbul , If memory is correct the barrel length was 275mm to start with so only 10mm sticking out. Fitted a small silencer and all looks good !!

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Hello everyone,

I have a G and G TR4 CQB-R, I was wondering what inner barrels will fit and how hard they are to fit also?

Thanks

Harry

 

 

If your looking at making it longer for a silencer ect i an see the point, but doing it because you want a tighter barrel is pointless i think as the G&G top techs have a decent tight barrel. I may be wrong but im sure others can confirm that

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If your looking at making it longer for a silencer ect i an see the point, but doing it because you want a tighter barrel is pointless i think as the G&G top techs have a decent tight barrel. I may be wrong but im sure others can confirm that

 

The gen 3's come with a 6.03 tight bore barrel. Its not the only thing that makes the guns inaccurate but I saw a noticeable improvement fitting a PDI barrel in place of the G&G ones. I would say its OK as far as a stock barrel goes, its worse than the one that came in my S&T Tar 21 pro but its not frighteningly bad its not good either. Indeed I found my G&G transparent carbine to be more accurate out of the box than the G&G T4-18 gen 3 and I suspect a large chunk of that is down to the inner barrel. Maybe they have a high variance in the quality from production, I could be unlucky or typical none of us has enough information to know. But my barrel was not very good.

 

Barrels aren't just measured in tightness. Manufacturing quality is actually more important for accuracy overall and a wider opening at the end like the Orga barrels also helps stabilise the BBs on exit. So yes G&G fit tightbores to their guns, all that does is marginally affect FPS. PDI and prometheus will both tell you there 6.05 barrel is their most accurate AEG inner barrel and the guns with lots of spare gas (GBBs HPAs etc) go with 6.23mm barrels. The current theory is that BBs actually roll along the top of the barrel and if you have a well used barrel you should see that for yourself that on exit the top of the barrel is scratched whereas the bottom isn't except on entry. So actually what we are looking for is a barrel that allows a consistent roll across the top without bumps that push it into the lower part or the sides of the barrel. The further away that bottom of the barrel is the less often it will inconsistently bounce off it. But if we don't have enough air to keep the push going then its going to negatively impact performance as well. We aren't at the point of fully appreciating all the things we can do to stablise the BB exit to make it super consistent, we do know however that the tightbore marketing is hogwash. If its not a precision steel barrel then your gun is going to be less accurate than it could otherwise be, and the G&G guns ship with coated brass barrels that when cut apart show variances in width down their length that suggest calling them 6.03 width is painfully optimistic in quoting the second decimal place.

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My SMP is in a TR4 base which came with a 6.03mm barrel. have since changed it out for a TM 6.08mm barrel both were 275mm and it was extremely easy

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The gen 3's come with a 6.03 tight bore barrel. Its not the only thing that makes the guns inaccurate but I saw a noticeable improvement fitting a PDI barrel in place of the G&G ones. I would say its OK as far as a stock barrel goes, its worse than the one that came in my S&T Tar 21 pro but its not frighteningly bad its not good either. Indeed I found my G&G transparent carbine to be more accurate out of the box than the G&G T4-18 gen 3 and I suspect a large chunk of that is down to the inner barrel. Maybe they have a high variance in the quality from production, I could be unlucky or typical none of us has enough information to know. But my barrel was not very good.

 

Barrels aren't just measured in tightness. Manufacturing quality is actually more important for accuracy overall and a wider opening at the end like the Orga barrels also helps stabilise the BBs on exit. So yes G&G fit tightbores to their guns, all that does is marginally affect FPS. PDI and prometheus will both tell you there 6.05 barrel is their most accurate AEG inner barrel and the guns with lots of spare gas (GBBs HPAs etc) go with 6.23mm barrels. The current theory is that BBs actually roll along the top of the barrel and if you have a well used barrel you should see that for yourself that on exit the top of the barrel is scratched whereas the bottom isn't except on entry. So actually what we are looking for is a barrel that allows a consistent roll across the top without bumps that push it into the lower part or the sides of the barrel. The further away that bottom of the barrel is the less often it will inconsistently bounce off it. But if we don't have enough air to keep the push going then its going to negatively impact performance as well. We aren't at the point of fully appreciating all the things we can do to stablise the BB exit to make it super consistent, we do know however that the tightbore marketing is hogwash. If its not a precision steel barrel then your gun is going to be less accurate than it could otherwise be, and the G&G guns ship with coated brass barrels that when cut apart show variances in width down their length that suggest calling them 6.03 width is painfully optimistic in quoting the second decimal place.

So in essence despite me reading about 6.03 barrels are an improvement , 6.03 are not and we should be going bigger not smaller ??

 

I changed mine as i found the BB's would curve off to one side despite tweaking the hop up and replacing the rubber. I used it yesterday but weather conditions were wet and windy so was not easy to see if there was an improvement or not ( was still good fun mind !! ). Sorry to the OP as i may be hijacking his thread !!!

 

I also confess to not measuring the original barrel before changing it but will measure it tonight.

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The gen 3's come with a 6.03 tight bore barrel. Its not the only thing that makes the guns inaccurate but I saw a noticeable improvement fitting a PDI barrel in place of the G&G ones. I would say its OK as far as a stock barrel goes, its worse than the one that came in my S&T Tar 21 pro but its not frighteningly bad its not good either. Indeed I found my G&G transparent carbine to be more accurate out of the box than the G&G T4-18 gen 3 and I suspect a large chunk of that is down to the inner barrel. Maybe they have a high variance in the quality from production, I could be unlucky or typical none of us has enough information to know. But my barrel was not very good.

 

Barrels aren't just measured in tightness. Manufacturing quality is actually more important for accuracy overall and a wider opening at the end like the Orga barrels also helps stabilise the BBs on exit. So yes G&G fit tightbores to their guns, all that does is marginally affect FPS. PDI and prometheus will both tell you there 6.05 barrel is their most accurate AEG inner barrel and the guns with lots of spare gas (GBBs HPAs etc) go with 6.23mm barrels. The current theory is that BBs actually roll along the top of the barrel and if you have a well used barrel you should see that for yourself that on exit the top of the barrel is scratched whereas the bottom isn't except on entry. So actually what we are looking for is a barrel that allows a consistent roll across the top without bumps that push it into the lower part or the sides of the barrel. The further away that bottom of the barrel is the less often it will inconsistently bounce off it. But if we don't have enough air to keep the push going then its going to negatively impact performance as well. We aren't at the point of fully appreciating all the things we can do to stablise the BB exit to make it super consistent, we do know however that the tightbore marketing is hogwash. If its not a precision steel barrel then your gun is going to be less accurate than it could otherwise be, and the G&G guns ship with coated brass barrels that when cut apart show variances in width down their length that suggest calling them 6.03 width is painfully optimistic in quoting the second decimal place.

 

Thats a very good point , thanks for info

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So in essence despite me reading about 6.03 barrels are an improvement , 6.03 are not and we should be going bigger not smaller ??

 

I changed mine as i found the BB's would curve off to one side despite tweaking the hop up and replacing the rubber. I used it yesterday but weather conditions were wet and windy so was not easy to see if there was an improvement or not ( was still good fun mind !! ). Sorry to the OP as i may be hijacking his thread !!!

 

I also confess to not measuring the original barrel before changing it but will measure it tonight.

 

The replacement barrel might be better, but the "tightness" isn't what tells you whether its better or not. An AEG can use anything from a 6.08 down to a 6.01 and depending on the BB size used (they usually come at 5.95mm, due to tightbore barrels the BBs are actually getting smaller!) that may very well work. You'll get a marginal increase in FPS going to a tighter barrel but its more the finish of the surface, the straightness of the inner channel and basically the quality of the barrel itself that is going to determine the end result.

 

Curving BBs is more than likely hop than inner barrel. The inner barrel is more about the spread of the BBs and if it curves off then there is a high speed rotation on the BB . Barrels can definitely be bent, and you can usually see it just by looking down them (note that rolling them on a table will show inconsistencies in the external surface, it wont tell you much about the internal surface) and if its off centre you will see the light being inconsistent in the barrel (and scratches potentially where the curve is introduced and the BBs are hitting it). But when it exits the barrel it does so relatively straight. To get them curving it has to be putting a rotation on the BB to cause lift sideways and that is going to be introduced by the hop unit via the hop rubber, which more than likely isn't in straight or the nub is placed badly or just plain the unit isn't perfectly aligned.

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It's all just snake oil in my opinion, the slightest bit of wind is going to affect accuracy significantly more than any diameter of barrel will

 

Where did you buy this snake oil, and will it work on my PTW?

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