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rikkilous
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hi guys im wanting a bit of advice please, im wanting to paint my ares ameoba 009/badger with an afgan and back look but with the gun being abs plastic the paint wont wipe off like it does metal guns, any advice tips or video tutorials please?

 

 

 

http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/rikkilous/media/IMG-20141017-WA0006.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

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hi mate the best thing to do is use sandpaper something like 400 grit,then krylon primer then the krylon colours or get these guys to do a cerakote job alot more expensive but will last longer than you will

http://www.riflecraft.co.uk/rifles-info/what-is-cerakote-13.aspx

 

 

This is the bit where paying attention to the OP is well worth it:

http://www.riflecraft.co.uk/rifles-info/what-can-be-coated-15.aspx

 

You cannot cerakote a plastic gun.

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they have a pts masada cerakoted and a l96 both with plastic bodys

 

"State-of-the-art, Cerakote™ Firearm Coatings provide a durable, weather and corrosion proof, ceramic-based protective finish that resists scratching, chipping, and abrasive cleaning solvents. Hardener and paint chemically bond into an ultra-thin coating that adheres to almost any surface for a clean, professional finish."

 

so maybe you should do your research first.

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I did one at the weekend. I used humrol Matt desert tan and used a sponge to apply it to the receiver then wiped it straight off with a cloth and some white spirit. Not sure what affect the White spirit would have on plastic body's though. I'll throw up a picture later if you like.

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I stand corrected. Plastic can be CeraKoted as long as it can be baked at 180degF (82degC) for 2 hours.

 

Well. There you go. Not sure I'd trust ABS at that temperature by NRP should be OK.

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i tried wiping it off on my old stock but it dries pretty much straight away

 

Don't spray it on too thinly, wipe it off straight away.

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they have a pts masada cerakoted and a l96 both with plastic bodys

 

"State-of-the-art, Cerakote™ Firearm Coatings provide a durable, weather and corrosion proof, ceramic-based protective finish that resists scratching, chipping, and abrasive cleaning solvents. Hardener and paint chemically bond into an ultra-thin coating that adheres to almost any surface for a clean, professional finish."

 

so maybe you should do your research first.

 

As per my last post - I stand corrected on the plastics.

 

 

Still didn't read the post for what he's trying to do though, did you?

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Really, if you are after a 'dusty effect' what you should do, is dry-brush the thing. If you are not familiar with that technique, it's where you dip a brush in paint, then wipe most of the paint off the brush with a paper towel until it would barely put any paint down, and then lightly pass the brush over the surface of the object so that the paint only catches the raised bits. This is a technique beloved of plastic modellers and movie prop makers, to make things look like metal when they are plastic, by painting things black and then dry-brushing a flat alloy (don't use silver) colour over the raised bits, then doing the same with thinned blues and purples to give it a blued look. But for the look you are after, you'd want to paint it with flat sand colour and then dry-brush thinned flat black on the raised bits, to make it look like the paint had worn off and revealed the metal underneath, which had tarnished in the air (which is why you use black). Note that you don't want to use a typical paint brush for dry-brushing, as you won't get a subtle effect; what you want is a very soft fanned out make up brush, like this kind of thing:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Real-Techniques-RLT-1401-Powder-Brush/dp/B004TSF8R4/ref=sr_1_23?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1413821882&sr=1-23

 

You can get that sort of make up brush in any chemist or pound shop for a quid.

 

Before you try it on your gun (and possibly f**k it up if you aren't used to dry-brushing), practice the technique first by painting any old which has raised up bits a sand colour, let it dry, and then try dry-brushing black over it. Humbrol (matt) paints will do a good job. If you want a bit of a worn metal look on some parts, use metalcote flat alloy enamel paint, - definitely not gloss silver - or it will look crap, alloy will look good, but don't overdo it. Most model and craft shops sells those paints, or you can get em online.

 

You can fix any paint job by spraying over with matt varnish (lightly! use thin coats and take your time). At a push you can also use hair spray to fix the paint, although that would not be waterproof, so matt varnish in an aerosol is a better bet (unless you happen to have an airbrush, in which case use that).

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I like the sound of dry brushing, I'll have to try it. Am I right thinking it's better just for making it look weathered and not specifically dusty?

I'd also recommend checking out Randy Jacob's 'Dirty Multicam' and 'Post-Apocalyptic' paint jobs for some techniques and inspiration. It's a YT channel btw. Looks absolutely awesome. Gonna try and make masks look weathered using a few ideas like the dry brushing etc

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I like the sound of dry brushing, I'll have to try it. Am I right thinking it's better just for making it look weathered and not specifically dusty?

I'd also recommend checking out Randy Jacob's 'Dirty Multicam' and 'Post-Apocalyptic' paint jobs for some techniques and inspiration. It's a YT channel btw. Looks absolutely awesome. Gonna try and make masks look weathered using a few ideas like the dry brushing etc

 

Depends on how you do it. You have to think about what it is you are trying to emulate whenever trying to achieve a faked look with paint. In this case, it is the notion that dust has settled in bits that are hard to get to, but has rubbed off areas where your uniform, hands, webbing etc have brushed against it.

 

Let's be honest, with something like an M16 Armalite type of weapon, you have to keep the real thing clean because it is manufactured to fine tolerances, unlike an AK, where everything is as slack as a bag of spanners, so dust won't easily jam it, whereas an Armalite will jam easily in those conditions if not kept clean, which is why the originals had a cleaning kit in the stock. But out in the plains of Afghan or the desert of Iraq, that's easier said than done, so you'd wipe the thing with an oiled rag and hope it picked up all the dust and kept it out of the mechanism. In that sense, you might simulate that look by, as others have suggested, painting sand colour on it and wiping it off so it only stays in the recesses, however, if you want to do something like that without resorting to slopping paint all over the thing and then wiping it off, then you could as I suggested, try painting it lightly sand coloured and then dry brushing the black gun metal colour on, which would only go in the easily accessible areas, so would simulate the sand and dust only being retained in crevices when the thing had been wiped with an oiled rag. Both techniques will do the job, but one is messier than the other, so it's up to you. Just try either technique on something else before attacking you pride and joy!.

 

There is another technique you could try too by the way, which is to let down a sand coloured acrylic paint so it is very watery, and then let that flood into crevices; when the acrylic dries, the pigment would only settle in recesses, much like dust would. Acrylic is much easier to sort out if you overdo it, since before it has dried, it can easily be washed off areas where you've gone over the top with a brush dipped in water or a wet tissue, but the acrylic when dry, will be waterproof. Acrylic dries much faster than enamel too, so it is quicker to get things done, and you can usually find a set of cheap acrylic paints in most supermarkets too, so it's easier to get hold of and less expensive.

 

Yet another technique is to use a clear flat varnish with some talcum powder in it, which will make the thing look a little lighter and dustier. Note that adding talc to paint has the effect of making paint more matt too, so it's kind of an added bonus.

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I like the sound of dry brushing, I'll have to try it. Am I right thinking it's better just for making it look weathered and not specifically dusty?

I'd also recommend checking out Randy Jacob's 'Dirty Multicam' and 'Post-Apocalyptic' paint jobs for some techniques and inspiration. It's a YT channel btw. Looks absolutely awesome. Gonna try and make masks look weathered using a few ideas like the dry brushing etc

 

Wow - love the Post Apocalyptic one! Now I have a something to try on my cheapo CYMA MP5 PDW :)

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